Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[FlowableFill]

I had a suit made from the Fox Khaki book last year and I love it.

 

[ericgereghty]

This is my logic regarding the unstructured version. You are basically paying several thousand dollars for a shirt at that point.

I have a bespoke cotton odd jacket and I do like it a lot and would definitely get another in the future or even a full suit.

Usually my tailor makes me spalla camicia shoulders but in the cotton jacket he (without my prompting) made it with a more structured normale con rollino and I think it looks great. I asked him about it and he said the structure gives the cotton more substance and helps it hold shape better over time. The canvas in the body though is still really light and its half lined as well so doesn't sacrifice on the lightness in the end.

I'd be curious to see any worn in photos if you have them!

 

[reidd]

I'd be curious to see any worn in photos if you have them!

Its only a season or two old so not really showing any age at this point but I am hoping for some nice fades. Its from Fox Khaki which as others have said is a really nice book.

 

[lordsuperb]

This is my logic regarding the unstructured version. You are basically paying several thousand dollars for a shirt at that point.

I have a bespoke cotton odd jacket and I do like it a lot and would definitely get another in the future or even a full suit.

Usually my tailor makes me spalla camicia shoulders but in the cotton jacket he (without my prompting) made it with a more structured normale con rollino and I think it looks great. I asked him about it and he said the structure gives the cotton more substance and helps it hold shape better over time. The canvas in the body though is still really light and its half lined as well so doesn't sacrifice on the lightness in the end.

Would MTM be better suited for a cotton suit?

 

[jonathanS]

Why not linen? Not that I'd say do either (especially if going bespoke), but I'd do linen in a heartbeat over cotton.

You're not alone. A (very) cheap cotton suit would be serviceable, but I have no interest in putting any decent chunk of change toward a cotton suit. Even a blend would dissuade me.

Yes, totally agree. No reason to spend good money on a cotton suit. I don’t like the aesthetic either though. You’ll never find me in a corduroy suit either. Flannels (woolen or worsteds), heavyweight worsteds (400g+) and frescos (including 4ply and fox air) for me. Oh and maybe a wool linen blend or a linen.

if jacketing, throw in mock Leno, wsl, cashmere & tweed (I suppose vicuña too, if I can find it at the right price).

 

[reidd]

Would MTM be better suited for a cotton suit?

I guess it just depends on your budget. All else equal, I don't think MTM is ever better than a good bespoke tailor no matter the material, but its going to be less expensive.

 

[Concordia]

A few years ago I had a seersucker jacket made, from a 50/50 wool and cotton blend, which was supposed to drape better. It was still pretty stiff, so I am going back to all cotton but having the jacket be more or less unstructured. Light navy/navy stripes. We shall see!

 

[JohnMRobie]

This negativity on cotton makes me think maybe I should pull this from the liabilities stash and be contrarian and get it made up for this summer.

 

[aristoi bcn]

A debate that pops-up every now and then, the one of the cotton suit.

 

[jonathanS]

A debate that pops-up every now and then, the one of the cotton suit.


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Well, imo, you can never go wrong with Milanese tailoring. but, Milanese tailoring is even better not in cotton.

 

[camez_]

I've been mulling a cotton suit for Fall and Spring -- unstructured and no canvas. This mossy LP cloth might be ideal. How silky is the hand? Ideally, I think I'd like something a bit drier and more utilitarian-looking.

You want brisbane moss Tennyson. It's the ideal handle but nothing for summer, it's just too heavy.

 

[bourbonbasted]

I’m glad I could inspire a debate. My most recent commission was also (mostly) cotton, so I suppose I am profligate.

 

[aristoi bcn]

My Neapolitan bespoke cotton suit from Iorio is one of my favourites. Circa 260g tan cotton twill. It wrinkles a lot but feels featherweight and the handmade details shine in this cloth. Rustic beauty I guess.

 

[lordsuperb]

Cotton is not my expertise and would like a crash course on what fabric weights to use for the summer and what weights to use for the winter.

 

[lordsuperb]

My Neapolitan bespoke cotton suit from Iorio is one of my favourites. Circa 260g tan cotton twill. It wrinkles a lot but feels featherweight and the handmade details shine in this cloth. Rustic beauty I guess.

You look great!