HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III

[jj-moody]

Perhaps I haven't learned ****, and #2 applies to me. Overall, just based on the photos, I think the right photo (i.e., Manton) is put together better if we are considering all elements of style (fabric, colors, etc.). But in terms of fit, I honestly think they look quite similar. If there are significant differences in the fit of the outfits (waist supression, button placement, fit of jacket around collar, V shape of the lapels, etc.), that signal costly bespoke and why Manton's fit is much better, I'm dying to hear the excrutiating details, if one would be so kind to indulge.

The differences are not very significant. In fact, as you get deeper into the details little of it is significant, but those little details are often big boosts in terms of status. Manton's fit is noticeably better though.

 

[jj-moody]

Really? That's unwise, since I am right.

Which SF RTW-wearers do you like as much or more than your favorites (if any) who use bespoke tailors?

We know you do it well. But, let's exclude you since I am questioning you.

Money Can't Buy You Class

 

[edmorel]



Perhaps I haven't learned ****, and #2 applies to me. Overall, just based on the photos, I think the right photo (i.e., Manton) is put together better if we are considering all elements of style (fabric, colors, etc.). But in terms of fit, I honestly think they look quite similar. If there are significant differences in the fit of the outfits (waist supression, button placement, fit of jacket around collar, V shape of the lapels, etc.), that signal costly bespoke and why Manton's fit is much better, I'm dying to hear the excrutiating details, if one would be so kind to indulge.

the first thing that I see is the shape. Manton's is hourglass shape, extended shoulders which continues through the chest/underarms, comes in at the waist and then "extends" back out again at the waist. If you look at Spoo's jacket, cut off the sleeves and it looks like a rectangle, even though there seems to be some supression at the waist. if you think that something like an hourglass shape is the ideal shape of a coat, then Manton's is better

 

[Manton]



Perhaps I haven't learned ****, and #2 applies to me. Overall, just based on the photos, I think the right photo (i.e., Manton) is put together better if we are considering all elements of style (fabric, colors, etc.). But in terms of fit, I honestly think they look quite similar. If there are significant differences in the fit of the outfits (waist supression, button placement, fit of jacket around collar, V shape of the lapels, etc.), that signal costly bespoke and why Manton's fit is much better, I'm dying to hear the excrutiating details, if one would be so kind to indulge.

Well, here is what I would say and it's hard to put this into words but bear with me.

There are basically only two ways the "lines" of a suit can appear, rounded or straight. Too straight and the clothes look boxy and angular. Too rounded and they look amorphous, tubby, sort of blobby and liquidy in bad way. What unites the nicer examples IMO is a golden mean between the two. Like an Aristotelean mean, it is not a perfect middle. It is closer to one extreme than the other, in this case curved (ever so slightly) but it gets the harmony right.

What I see in the spoo pic vox quoted is too many straight lines and angles. What I see in the other coat that I criticized earlier is too much round. What I like about well done A&S or Naples or NY bespoke is that they get the mean right, each in their own different way, but done well.

 

[jj-moody]

The hour glass shape is for women, the V is for men. I am certain that 'mean' bs really clarified things for him manton. Nice one

 

[Gdot]



Lol, I'm trying to behave, I really am!

Srsly, this looks good from the knees up and actually on you I don't mind the narrow lapels. Tie is possibly a bit overly soporific, you could try a bit more color and be still be safe, e.g. a blue ground with some other color pattern.

Kevin, I am dumbfounded at your self restraint. Oh wait.......did I say restraint? I meant ...........well............. carry on!

 

[F. Corbera]

.

 

[Manton]



The hour glass shape is for women, the V is for men. I am certain that 'mean' bs really clarified things for him manton. Nice one

Just because you don't understand something doesn't mean no one else will.

 

[emptym]



That's some me-like earnestness, V. Unusual for you. That said, as you might guess, I disagree with your thesis. If anything, too much money is being spent on SF these days, indiscriminately...

+1. This is Vox becoming the pillar of the community we always knew he could be.

Really? That's unwise, since I am right.

I think the key word in his post was "indiscriminately."

The differences are not very significant. In fact, as you get deeper into the details little of it is significant, but those little details are often big boosts in terms of status. Manton's fit is noticeably better though.

But it's the little things that separate good from great.

 

[acecow]



Ovadia and Sons are completely fine. I wish them success, and I hope that many on the forum will enjoy their unsold wares next year through the wide variety of discount channels available online and in bricks-and-mortar form.

I did not insinuate that Spoo's ensembles "betray a lack of knowledge and refinement." Quite the contrary. But you know that. My opinion, however, is that Spoo's ensembles reflect less knowledge and refinement, and also are executed with fewer deep resources relevant to classic style than what Manton puts together.

Also, it seems this is not one of the better fitting jackets Spoo owns.

 

[Manton]



the first thing that I see is the shape. Manton's is hourglass shape, extended shoulders which continues through the chest/underarms, comes in at the waist and then "extends" back out again at the waist. If you look at Spoo's jacket, cut off the sleeves and it looks like a rectangle, even though there seems to be some supression at the waist. if you think that something like an hourglass shape is the ideal shape of a coat, then Manton's is better

The shoulders on that jacket are actually not extended at all. It does have a noticeably trimmer waist than most of my stuff, though.

 

[edmorel]



Really? That's unwise, since I am right.

Which SF RTW-wearers do you like as much or more than your favorites (if any) who use bespoke tailors?

We know you do it well. But, let's exclude you since I am questioning you.

I like this guy

 

[jj-moody]

Just because you don't understand something doesn't mean no one else will.

Sorry professor but I do understand, I think I learned about it when I had Aesop's fables read to me as a child. That golden mean crap applies to everything and anything, from my baker to my mechanic.

I think you pontificate when it is not needed and terse up when it is.

 

[Manton]

I specifically said it was meant in the Aristotelean sense, which is not that hard to understand. I recommend this translation, it just came out and it is far and away the best one:

http://press.uchicago.edu/ucp/books/book/chicago/A/bo11393496.html

 

[jj-moody]

Manton notice how I said 'as a child'. I am currently having them read to me again, just in case. I am lying on a bed of sack suits with Christie Turlington feeding me grapes.