Double Breasted Style.

[greger]

You posted this picture, which is really dark. Does he not have his hand in his coat pocket? The sleeve naturally gets pushed up and horizontal wrinkles appear like this. The collar is lifted as so because he put his hand in the pocket and shows the shoulder slope is a tad to steep? If it is an overcoat maybe the coat underneath is causing problems.

Here, where it is cold, rainy, snow, the sleeves can be long enough to cover half the hand, so if the hand is in the pocket that would push even more sleeve up creating more wrinkles. When looking at Italy it is a warmer dryer climate and wouldn't need the longer sleeves.

 

[SartodiNapoli]

Overcoat is made for Madrid, not for Canada with -35 celsius, so not valid point sorry, even if cutted long as you say, any of those defective wrinkles would appear if is cutted by good tailors

, but any of the actual Madrid tailors is able to cut sleeves that are not out of pitch.



I got a bad time finding this ill overcoat pics and needed to go out to the sea to take fresh air as i got nausea, as i said but for you this ill sleeves are good, just see the out of pitch bad sleeves both in front and back.

And compare with this beauty of a nordic student real overcoat.


Now an ill fitting jacket pseudosmoking jacket by the same one who shills untailors, ill shoulders and worse back, seems done by the same " tailor" as is so squared and oversized that explodes all around.


I assume you are not a tailor if you are ( again) writing things as this, right?

Seems obvious but just curious.

Now, as this is the DB thread, a super ill DB jacket, by the best dresser ever, the perfect model for igents and Rubinacci fans, Luca himself who even got interviews featuring on this great forum as if he was the best dresser ever, same ugly wide shoulders with extra fabric and ill sleeves.

Also the cuffs must be cutted to the size of the wearer, on this " great " Rubinacci, two arms fit on it. One of the worst DB i have ever seen if we can include such this monstruosity into DB.



Compare the Rubinacci ill tailored with this mid 80´s DB rtw i assume by Armani, even I totally dislike Armani in general, note the point that a RTW beats the fit and sleeves the " better tailor ever" as Rubinacci is believed to be for the so called experts and posters on this forum and others.



Same defect here, as i say, Rubinacci is not a good tailoring house and i have NEVER seen a good fit since Mariano is on it f but i got any clue about tailoring others say...





Rubinacci rules and is the best ever ( Note this is written on December 28th, the Innocent´s Day and is obviously NOT for real

)

Another awful DB with same sleeves, ORAZIO LUCIANO

 

[SartodiNapoli]

More bad and ugly DB but the sleeves are not ill as on Rubinacci or Madrid ones.

 

[lordsuperb]

I believe Luca has his clothes made from the Milan branch of Rubinacci. I believe they have a different shoulder from the Naples house. Can you post a normal picture that you think conveys a decent Double Breasted? What do you think of this one?

 

[SartodiNapoli]

I don´t know if Luca gets his suits made in Milan ( that way would be even worse) but what i know is that is the antitailoring and a show of tailoring illness.

Butler, i like him, but the suit you posted is not his best suit.

DBs got the golden age on the 30s and 40s. And nowadays is a suit that only barely looks good on people over 70´s due that a few tailors do good DBs, all the attemps to wear a DB by youngsters nowadays (that i have seen) are a FAIL or an hilarious Pitti joke, sadly i have never seen a proper wore one, specially when this kiddos wear them opened and with the watch chain, something that is totally avoided and looks off.

. You button it on your home when you dress yourself, and unbutton it when you return and undress. That is the rule i didn´t invent but any follows creating a bad taste parody among other things.

I remember the conversation about classic cinema noir i got with the owner and tailor of perhaps the best neapolitan tailoring house at this time, since 1925 or so. Thanks God is totally unknow by igents, bloggers and similars, i met him and he offered me getting trained there with 25 more people, the night before was on ReteCapri, a local Neapolitan tv channel, Angels with Dirty Faces, one of the best James Cagney films with a perfect DB on him and not too much shoulder extended, the owner on his 70s was a fan of cinema noir as well, so i was lucky.

This are for real DBs even are shoulder extended on some of them, got perfect sleeves and look awesome and natural even this old fabrics were so thick compared to actual ones and not what i criticised that is simply awful and disgusting but is what most get by following hypes and names without having a clue about tailoring or style and also paying a fortune for a bad suit made by trainees who just sewn the tag that hypervaluates it in 1000%, but are " great" and that speech is also written by some of them who even got published books about how to "dress". Edward G. Robinson, maybe the best secondary actor ever, perhaps totally unknown for this "experts" who might be downloading or pirating classic films such as Transformers VIII, buying "vintage" ties while posting insults, profanating the classic style and habitual nonsense while others do cultivate our mind and soul.

 

[carpu65]

What about this?
Is a Rubinacci tussah double breasted cut by Vincenzo Attolini in 1936.

 

[lordsuperb]



Fair enough, how do you feel about this double breasted? Also, how would you convey your wants and desires for a double breasted suit to your tailor?

 

[lordsuperb]

 

[chobochobo]



New picture and new angle. The suit looks fine.

It certainly looks better, though as SN says it's a bit dark. You can't deny that the previous picture did not look that good, though it was partly due to the camera angle and his stance.

 

[archibaldleach]

The original picture of Foo looked perfectly fine. SN just seems to have some sort of issue with Foo and his tailor. I could claim to be an expert who has worked with great masters just like him, but it doesn't make it true. I'm sure this post sets me up for charges of disrespecting or insulting SN, but until he contributes something of intellectual substance that is more than a meandering rant and perhaps shows some pictures of his own garments on this thread, I have a hard time taking him seriously. It's really easy to be an anonymous presence on the internet, criticize others, pretend to have credentials and never put your own clothes out for critique. Unless you are offering genuinely well-intentioned and helpful criticisms (which SN clearly is not even attempting to do), insulting others without posting examples of your own clothes for everyone else to critique is an act of spineless cowardice.

 

[SartodiNapoli]

Another insulter poster to my ignore list and reported for offending and for cheap demagogy. How many art or cinema critics are directors themselves per example? I can't stand this insulters with bad sentences and any tailoring clue but narcissistic behaviour and offending. Curiously all are Rubinacci fans and can't stand the true. He says that tailoring ill pic looked perfect. That is what this insulter knows about tailoring, nothing but insults all around.

And this poster calls me liar and a troll. Jaja. Tons of posters have bought my garments. What i said before about this kind of people who are destroying the tailoring business and even is not original on his accusations, as this same has been repeated to me over and over on this forum, maybe was also this poster but i don't remember. Here another example, might be a blogger...'nuff said. If he can't understand the info about what a proper DB jacket is, explained by me with tons of pics, but says my posts are unuseful but insults and denies the truth. An applause!

 

[Isolation]

I'm interested in a more substantial critique for some of the DBs posted, with less emotional rhetoric and more specific explanations what's wring with them.

 

[kulata]

There are limits to criticizing static and 2 dimensional fit pics. Foo's first pic is exactly as SartodiNapoli analyzed it, proportions are greatly exaggerated but the second picture looks very different. So these exercises are often futile and you can't write off a tailor based on a single picture.

 

[lordsuperb]



Another insulter poster to my ignore list and reported for offending and for cheap demagogy. How many art or cinema critics are directors themselves per example? I can't stand this insulters with bad sentences and any tailoring clue but narcissistic behaviour and offending. Curiously all are Rubinacci fans and can't stand the true. He says that tailoring ill pic looked perfect. That is what this insulter knows about tailoring, nothing but insults all around.

And this poster calls me liar and a troll. Jaja. Tons of posters have bought my garments. What i said before about this kind of people who are destroying the tailoring business and even is not original on his accusations, as this same has been repeated to me over and over on this forum, maybe was also this poster but i don't remember. Here another example, might be a blogger...'nuff said. If he can't understand the info about what a proper DB jacket is, explained by me with tons of pics, but says my posts are unuseful but insults and denies the truth. An applause!

The original picture of Foo looked perfectly fine. SN just seems to have some sort of issue with Foo and his tailor. I could claim to be an expert who has worked with great masters just like him, but it doesn't make it true. I'm sure this post sets me up for charges of disrespecting or insulting SN, but until he contributes something of intellectual substance that is more than a meandering rant and perhaps shows some pictures of his own garments on this thread, I have a hard time taking him seriously. It's really easy to be an anonymous presence on the internet, criticize others, pretend to have credentials and never put your own clothes out for critique. Unless you are offering genuinely well-intentioned and helpful criticisms (which SN clearly is not even attempting to do), insulting others without posting examples of your own clothes for everyone else to critique is an act of spineless cowardice.

There are limits to criticizing static and 2 dimensional fit pics. Foo's first pic is exactly as SartodiNapoli analyzed it, proportions are greatly exaggerated but the second picture looks very different. So these exercises are often futile and you can't write off a tailor based on a single picture.

You have to look at SNperspective as well. When I first started browsing this forum to learn about clothes the threads created by mafoo were the first that I started to follow. I believe he and various members who posted pictures of their bespoke commissions did clothing enthusiast a big favor. My initial views on his first commission were dim and that anybody spending $6k on a suit was blinded by the light. Luckily, he kept posting and my views began to change somewhat. As his commissions improved my eyes were opened to the process but I still couldn’t get over the steep barrier of entry. I’m under the impression that there are artisans in Italy who are just as good, or better than Rubinacci at a cheaper price point. However, there are significant barriers of entry for foreign clients looking to access this cheaper market.

If you’ve been browsing the forum over the past couple of years like I have, you will have read of various threads of customers being sold the dream. Cheaper artisans selling suits, pants, and $300 ties who have failed to deliver in some aspect. I believe the value in Rubinacci is that it fits a niche market in which foreign clients who aren’t familiar with Italian landscape of artisans won’t have to deal with all the headaches of getting their clothes. I think that is the point SN is missing. Yes, there are better artisans at a cheaper price point but will they deliver?

Now back to the DB that was posted. I’m not sure but I think the original picture was the suit straight out of the box when Mafoo originally posted the picture. The second picture looks like the suit has been worn and has conformed to his body. I can say from experience that some of my soft tailored clothing looks a bit off straight out of the box but after a few wears it looks good, or maybe my eyes have adjusted to the look . Any way the suit looks fine.

 

[SartodiNapoli]

You have to look at SNperspective as well. When I first started browsing this forum to learn about clothes the threads created by mafoo were the first that I started to follow. I believe he and various members who posted pictures of their bespoke commissions did clothing enthusiast a big favor. My initial views on his first commission were dim and that anybody spending $6k on a suit was blinded by the light. Luckily, he kept posting and my views began to change somewhat. As his commissions improved my eyes were opened to the process but I still couldn’t get over the steep barrier of entry. I’m under the impression that there are artisans in Italy who are just as good, or better than Rubinacci at a cheaper price point. However, there are significant barriers of entry for foreign clients looking to access this cheaper market.

If you’ve been browsing the forum over the past couple of years like I have, you will have read of various threads of customers being sold the dream. Cheaper artisans selling suits, pants, and $300 ties who have failed to deliver in some aspect. I believe the value in Rubinacci is that it fits a niche market in which foreign clients who aren’t familiar with Italian landscape of artisans won’t have to deal with all the headaches of getting their clothes. I think that is the point SN is missing. Yes, there are better artisans at a cheaper price point but will they deliver?

Now back to the DB that was posted. I’m not sure but I think the original picture was the suit straight out of the box when he Mafoo originally posted the picture. The second picture looks like the suit has been worn and has conformed to his body. I can say from experience that some of my soft tailored clothing looks a bit off straight out of the box but after a few wears it looks good, or maybe my eyes have adjusted to the look. Any way the suit looks fine.

No, is not the point i am missing, i have said tons of times there are far better tailors a few corners away from the "God of tailoring for bloggers" that is an unrespected house in Naples nowadays called Rubinacci, and even master tailors who does far better suits at 1/10 the price can be found around the corner.

Since years is my speech repetead tons of times around this forum but for insulters as my now ignored and reported member and others i am a troll and a faker and hold on for this obnoxious fact; you have to be tailor or artist to criticise any kind of " art", while on my case i am by the way, but as i said, how many critics of whatever do that thing themselves.

Ridiculous and inmature right? Those are my usual haters, that are just 5 or so but are all the time posting here and there instead of having a real job and do anything for the society, curiously all are or seem bloggers with a very *** taste and i suspect Pitti door people who just follow hypes without having a clue about fit, style or tailoring, fashionistas. That is what i have always expossed.

Now some pics to ilustrate their " classic style and knowledge" and a pic of their idol, Lucca on another ( great for those)

defective DB that is the topic so they tranquilise a bit and stay happy for today with "style", and another bad dresser as well hyped by this people, here is their da

ily dose so they tranquilise and stay high. Ralph Lauren on DB and 0 style

Kind of "·classic dressers" i suspect my haters dress like as well as imitate, they beat David Niven himself, what a class, pure XIX Century Victorian age.



.


And this, perfect fit for my haters and Rubinacci fans, those who even say i do not exist.