Double Breasted Style.

[archibaldleach]



I get your point, but the £130 is closer to 200 usd.

True, though many still assume a 2 to 1 exchange rate. I leave whether $260 qualifies as almost $300 to others. Incidentally, these exchange rate assumptions and retailers pricing accordingly create some interesting shopping arbitrages.

 

[SartodiNapoli]

Maybe this coat needs a pressing but, it looks sloppy. And, the waistline looks very high. The purpose of the high waistline is it working better than something else?

Wow, looks totally awful as most of Rubinacci suits, but worst ever DB is this, paradoxically but a blogger and so called " expert ", done by a Madrid "tailor" called Calvo de Mora, one of the most horrid " tailors around, who dares to say is over Savile or Naples. See this sartorial crime 3 sizes more, out of pitch twisted sleeves etc

 

[MGD83]

That's an overcoat in the second pic no? Also, care to explain why the top pic is so horrible? I'm not being smart, just making an inquiry.

 

[SartodiNapoli]

That's an overcoat in the second pic no? Also, care to explain why the top pic is so horrible? I'm not being smart, just making an inquiry.

I am not sure if is an ( DB) overcoat ( if so, worse, as any overcoat has to be wear indoors as that " expert" who gets 2000e per image assistant to Spanish politicians should know), ergo another who allegedly scams his clientele ignoring the basic rules and taking their money to " teach them to dress". Also do not know if is a DB jacket, honestly is so bad and way off that can be whatever, specially coming from the tailors of Madrid, able to everything but delivering a real suit. Also the collar is so gapped as is cutted several sizes bigger. There was an article on his terrible blog about this now that i remember, i can´t stand him and all his lies and wrong articles, even a book that told a different story about was the stroller or another classic garment, i threw away the book to the paper recycling can years ago.

The topic on the first pic to me, seems totally disproportioned, the shoulders are placed way off from his shoulder line/bone, making the figure even more disproportioned, a suit needs to enhance the body and hide the defects, this suit just does the contrary, boost the defects of the client creating a wide/muscular like jacket that would be ok for Arnold, but on this case, clearly gives an hilarious/parodying figure, that sure is not the intented by the client. ( Looks a He-man toy on a suit, honestly). Also cuffing trousers for a small person is a basic knowledge mistake, makes him looks shorter, but never mind, as is a Rubinacci no less, the client would look more elegant than David Niven... ( that is what they believe...)

The sleeves are huge for such small person and seems obvious is not a bodybuilder with a big biceps and specially triceps to justify that sleeve diameter and big armhole, to me is again bad tailoring but as Rubinacci, i am a troll or a clueless ( this said since lots of years ago by my usual haters) In general there is something strange and off, hard to id but that looks photoshoped, like putting the face of another person over the body to do a sketch, while is for real, don´t you agree?


Doesn´t looks to me a real suit, real pic and great work as on this classic pic when tailors were good ones, just compare ;

 

[greger]

SN, do you really know anything about clothes? Clothes are art. If you don't understand the art, then it is very easy to misunderstand why. Some say that only realism is is art, another it's impressionist art, etc. Well, they are all art. How well they are done is another matter. If you don't understand it you can't judge it. Clothes are also about fun. That means a rule that says a short guy can't have cuffs is thrown out. Usually an adjustment somewhere else will counter it. Listening to a tailor who doesn't like some arts of tailoring can be misleading.

 

[carpu65]

 

[carpu65]

Wow, looks totally awful as most of Rubinacci suits

This is not bad (well i like more built shoulders)



My impression that not all customers have the same cutter,and not all cutters are equal (for sure not the cutter of

's suit).
A mischievous can think that not all customers are equal....

 

[archibaldleach]

Re: the silly comments on Foo's suit:

1) Shoulder extension is a common tailoring technique with bespoke suits, so the fact that the suit's shoulders are a bit broader than Foo's shoulders is not a problem. Without knowing more about Foo's actual body type, I see nothing there to provide evidence that the shoulder extension is particularly exaggerated.

2) Cuffing trousers is a conscious choice made by Foo. I personally believe that cuffing trousers probably does make one look a bit shorter, but if a shorter guy likes the look of cuffed trousers more than he minds some minor visual effect re: his height, then he should cuff his trousers. I think I am maybe 3 inches taller than Foo (5ft7 and iirc he said he is 5ft4) and I would not cuff my trousers (mostly for other reasons not related to some minor height illusion), but I am able to recognize that I can make a different choice without having to resort to calling others' choices wrong or mistakes.

3) I see no issue with the sleeves. They are maybe a bit full for my taste, but not dramatically so.

I think the biggest parody in this discussion is SN's dramatically exaggerated critique of the suit in question.

 

[LeviMay]

Agreed almost unanimously.

We work with what we're given. Mr Foo is a full foot shorter than me, yet maintains proper proportion through shoulder and waist manipulation.

I think Mr Foo is one of very few who can actually stand naturally when fitted. I'd like to think I do, but get barked at that I'm exaggerating my upright-ness during every fitting.

He is short and such, but his suit makes him look as ideal as possible. We should all shoot for such.

 

[SartodiNapoli]

SN, do you really know anything about clothes? Clothes are art. If you don't understand the art, then it is very easy to misunderstand why. Some say that only realism is is art, another it's impressionist art, etc. Well, they are all art. How well they are done is another matter. If you don't understand it you can't judge it. Clothes are also about fun. That means a rule that says a short guy can't have cuffs is thrown out. Usually an adjustment somewhere else will counter it. Listening to a tailor who doesn't like some arts of tailoring can be misleading.

i was asked by my personal and technical opinion and you are attacking and offending it, and not as a simple forum reader who dares to try to offend me and the rules, by one who is friend, pupil, and as i said, is being trained by the considered best alive, sure any in Rubinacci house where my master quitted several decades ago as he ( or any neapolitan ) can stand Mariano or his family.

Did you know the " art" of fitting? Seems nope with this free insults and demagogia.


Did you know i work daily with the big names and have as grandmaster the one who is considered the best master alive in Naples and already got diplomas on patternmaking so can talk about all the issues you aprove but offend
? Did you know on the exam to get it, any could pass it if deliver such an " art"? No, sure you didn´t know if already wrote that offenses to me and to the tailoring business.

Then i got no clue about clothes right?

. What i said, as is made by Rubinacci, is perfect for hype followers and outsiders. Nothing new i didn´t say already. Bringing light to darkened people, what a drama.

Did you know any neapolitan goes to Rubinacci to get suits or if he goes he gets socially lowered and made fun on it on social circles, only bloggers or hype followers, no right?

Did you know the on the business one of the favorite joke is, a pretentious xxx nationality on a cruise was last week wearing 60.000 euros watch, showing off, as if he knew everything and went to Rubinacci to get a suit that two corners away cost 600euros but paid 6000? Then i know anything about clothes right?

You call that art, your opinion do not shared by me and sure by any of top tailors i work with daily with who will never deliver such an " art".

Maybe as " degenerated art". Is then art that terrible suit? Your are free to believe it, but NOT to try to offend a real pro or try to myslead people saying beer is wine, not this case. Period.

The other one, curiously from the same city, who again calls me silly, i say the same.


The offenses i have to listen on this forum by so called "experts" are simply clueless, ridiculous and far away from the tailoring business they have only been close on ( terrible) blogs, Pitti, forums or similar unpro media written by rookies with a "taste" and knowledge , that is what is misleading.

 

[lasbar]

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

I have 2 Rubinacci suits and I prefer by far my Huntsman's ones..

Why?

Because I prefer the more structured look to the Napoli tailoring school.

I have also tried for my only DB A&S which I find personally too sloppy..

Tous les gouts sont dans la nature.

Foo is very small and to be fair, DB especially with massive cuffs will always make him look a bit....small.

This is his signature look.

The big glasses and the massive shoes do not help either..

 

[SartodiNapoli]

Here, not as on the Rubinacci ill one, all but the first, and sure is because was the time´s fashion so we can say is ok, seem to have the proper proportions and looks good to me. I don´t see any unnatural artifact as on the one i was asked my pro opinion.

Thanks for posting, see you in Maresca´s club hope soon.

 

[lordsuperb]

New picture and new angle. The suit looks fine.

 

[lordsuperb]

Alfred Hitchcock

 

[SartodiNapoli]

New picture and new angle. The suit looks fine.

Because the pic is too shady, not because is better.