Where should I buy my first high-MTM or bespoke suit?

[jcortez]

Up until now I’ve been thrifting menswear which has landed me some stellar value, but alas, picky tastes coupled with uncommon proportions and the natural limitations of thrifting has meant that finding the right suit has required a near infinite amount of time which I am starting to no longer have.

So, forgive me for undoubtedly re-asking this, but for a high-end MTM suit or bespoke one in 2023 - where should I go?

Specific considerations:

1. Budget: Ideally sub-$2,000. Max would be what Saman Amel stands at currently ($2,600).
2. Location: Not unwilling to travel, however, a tailor that has services along the east coast of the United States would be much more preferable.
3. Timeline: By October of this year ideally.

Style:

I was previously looking at Saman Amel based on Simon Crompton’s article which put them at £1,400 for a jacket, but demand has apparently brought that up to €2,500 - a bit pricey IMO for MTM.

Still, I'm considering them namely because of these elements of their cut:

• Tasteful soft shoulders. A bit of padding for proportionality which neither over-exaggerates nor slims the shoulder-line. Subtle spalla camicia without a gaudy amount of puckering at the sleeve-head.
• Classic wider lapels with a modern, sharp line. Width is considerable, though still proportional considerate of the entire chest.
• A gorge height right above the navel - not too long nor too high.
• A modern slim silhouette coupled with traditional elements. A generous bust which creates a desired X-shape and a tighter waist.
• Picture attached of what I consider to be a good example of this.

Additionally, the stellar reviews related to how well their products fit for MTM is a big consideration too.

Thanks.

 

[breakaway01]

Not sure you're going to get any useful advice without a lot more information/context.

Budget? Would you pay more for bespoke? How much?
Location? Are you willing/able to travel?
Do you have a specific date that you need the suit by?
Different makers generally have different house styles. What do you like about the Saman Amel style? You are obviously familiar with Permanent Style, so what other makers have caught your eye?

 

[jcortez]

Not sure you're going to get any useful advice without a lot more information/context.

Budget? Would you pay more for bespoke? How much?
Location? Are you willing/able to travel?
Do you have a specific date that you need the suit by?
Different makers generally have different house styles. What do you like about the Saman Amel style? You are obviously familiar with Permanent Style, so what other makers have caught your eye?

Edited the original post to include that information. After looking through PS, the tailor Biagio Granata seems to have a fairly similar style at an agreeable price-point, however, reviews seem to indicate a lack of acceptable customer service, so I'll probably be staying away.

 

[comrade]

If you love their ( house) style that is the first step. As
you know, MTM uses preset patterns that allow only
limited changes, center vs side vents, possiblely two vs
three buttons. I would try on sample jackets and trousers
before I went any further. Their outer wear is too fashion
forward for me. I like the suit cuts but would be surprised
if they fit my broad build very well.

 

[breakaway01]

You won't have a lot of choices at your price point. Bespoke by anyone with a physical shop on the East Coast will run you far above your budget. There are a number of tailors who visit NYC from abroad a few times a year, and although many will be far too expensive (e.g. the Savile Row tailors, Cifonelli, Rubinacci, etc) you will find some lower-cost good options among them, e.g. I Sarti Italiani . This is probably the closest thing you're going to get to bespoke (they have apparently a highly customizable MTM system) at your budget in the US. The problem is that I'm not sure whether you'll be able to get your suit by October because you will have to wait months between fittings.

If you really do need a suit by October, I'd visit the Armoury and No Man Walks Alone in NYC; both have well-regarded MTM programs and I think they'd fall within the higher end of your budget. I think they would also tell you whether your proportions could be accommodated by their respective MTM systems or not.

 

[philosophe]

Agree ^. No Man or the Armoury. Each will give you expert, honest advice. You're paying for judgment as well as quality construction.

 

[jcortez]

Appreciate the suggestions. I wasn't aware that NMWA offered in-person services of this sort.

Other names I've come up with are J. Mueser, P. Johnson, and Anglo-Italian. The former two seem to have shops based in NYC.

 

[gimpwiz]

Wazin in NYC is, I think, HK-labor bespoke. Divij/Hemrajani travel, they offer MTM but their product seems closer to bespoke than MTM. Both should be within your budget.

I think you might have the wrong definition of gorge height. I assume you meant button stance.

 

[breakaway01]

Just be careful OP that you don’t forget about what you’re looking for stylistically. I didn’t mention Divij because although I’ve seen great suits posted, I have never seen a suit by them that resembles what you say you’re looking for. Anglo-Italian’s silhouette is also very different from what you’re looking for.

 

[Only2Hands]

I’m mostly a lurker here so I sincerely hope if this post is inappropriate in any way, but I am a stylist for SuitScribe. It’s ‘white glove’, so if you’re on the East Coast, preferably around the Tri-State area, I can come directly to you and scribe you a fully canvased MTM suit sub 2k, around 1,8. Fabrics from Dormeuil. If you’re still in need, I can give you a call for a consultation over the phone totally free, and we can see if it’s a good fit. PM me!

 

[Viatu]

For MTM (it's a remote bespoke program with virtual fittings) I recommend Sartoria Pastena. They are sub $2,000 USD. I hear great things about Sinfonia's (out of Taiwan. House style is Florentine) remote bespoke program. Lastly, I recommend Adriana Esposito from Naples. How recent are those prices for Saman Amel?

 

[Werther Hartmann]

For MTM (it's a remote bespoke program with virtual fittings) I recommend Sartoria Pastena. They are sub $2,000 USD. I hear great things about Sinfonia's (out of Taiwan. House style is Florentine) remote bespoke program. Lastly, I recommend Adriana Esposito from Naples. How recent are those prices for Saman Amel?

I would stay away from remote programs, at least for the first bespoke suit. It's much more fun in person, the tailor will be able to better see areas that might require additional attention and they'll be able to show you let's say the difference between two and three buttons on real jackets you can touch and feel.

 

[JohnMRobie]

For MTM (it's a remote bespoke program with virtual fittings) I recommend Sartoria Pastena. They are sub $2,000 USD. I hear great things about Sinfonia's (out of Taiwan. House style is Florentine) remote bespoke program. Lastly, I recommend Adriana Esposito from Naples. How recent are those prices for Saman Amel?

If OP is in NYC or visiting isn’t an issue, Antonio is coming back in a few weeks so remote isn’t necessary. I think he plans to be back for fittings a few months after that and is on a pretty consistent 3-4 month schedule at this point. It would be at the higher end of the budget but is bespoke with fittings, not MTM. He’s got a decent block of appointments in the afternoon on the 31st and I think only a couple left on the 1st.

If remote is where it’s got to be, it’s sort of an in-between as Antonio doesn’t use blocks so it’s more MTM in that it is straight to a forward finish or straight to finish with virtual meetings for alterations or tweaks, it’s more bespoke in that he uses rock of eye for pattern drafting. Antonio is ex-Rubi and ex-Ciardi. His dad is the other cutter and is ex-Panico. Adding to the poster above though, my second suit was better than my first so if looking for a one-and-done I’d go in person bespoke with fittings.

I happen to be wearing a navy suit today that’s adjacent to what OP mentioned stylistically albeit with more closed quarters than the one he posted.

 

[Viatu]

I would stay away from remote programs, at least for the first bespoke suit. It's much more fun in person, the tailor will be able to better see areas that might require additional attention and they'll be able to show you let's say the difference between two and three buttons on real jackets you can touch and feel.

Thank you. But, I have been using remote programs for 3 years now and the results have been great.

 

[Werther Hartmann]

Thank you. But, I have been using remote programs for 3 years now and the results have been great.

That's great, but in my experience it's just more fun to do it in person and if one is struggling with the huge amount of choices you have, being in a real store is great. When I commissioned my first pair of trousers, my tailor was able to bring me some pairs I could try one that featured whatever I was thinking about. I couldn't have done that online. I recently commissioned some shirts with T&A at one of their trunk shows and that feeling of being pampered and being the center of attention, in addition to the copious amounts of complementary drinks, was amazing and could not have been done online.
I am not saying you can't have a good experience online or should never do it online, but OP is popping his cherry and I believe that should be something special, not a glorified Zoom call