I’m a college student who wants a fine suit. What should I do?

[jcortez]

For the majority of my self-aware life I’ve been interested in menswear and have therefore always looked forwards to eventually going custom.

The problem with that of course is that I was, am, and am still going to be for a while, young.

While I’m currently fortunate enough to work a fairly well paying job that often requires tailoring as part of the dress code (e.g., I can afford it and it has a purpose), part of me (perhaps the same part that hasn’t upgraded my daily-driver PC for 9 years) is telling me not to.

What do you guys think? A deal of my reluctantly comes from the fact that there are many OTR or cheaper MTM offerings now that seem to offer the (previously rare) cut I’m interested in. Even SuitSupply seems to be getting in on it.

I had a consultation with Saman Amel recently, and, if I were rich would’ve bought an entire wardrobe from him, but as it stands currently, would it be worth it to at least pull the trigger on my first high-MTM suit from him or a roughly equivalent house?

 

[St1X]

Saman Amel seem to be insanely overpriced for what they are offering - 4k SEK for a regular shirt is crazy. For that money I expect a shirt from the 100 hands.
So I assume their MTM would cost you more than bespoke from https://gotrich.com/en with a lot less creative freedom.
Also, I don't think it's a good idea to commit to expensive MTM just when you are starting - chances are your style will evolve and eventually you might no longer like your 2k usd MTM suit.
I'd rather go for a cheaper RTW until you'll dial-in your style. That's ofc, if RTW pattern works for your body. Also, it's a lot easier to sell a second hand suit from Suitsupply online than selling something from a very niche brand

 

[jeremygo]

Of course everyone has a slightly different internal calculus when it comes to cost and value. What is too expensice for one could be cheap for another. How I usually try to solve these decisions is some version of the below:
1. Can you can reasonably afford or save up for the item?
2. Will it make you happy/bring you joy/make you feel good?
3. Will you wear it often enough to feel “worth” the investment?

If the answer to all is a resounding YES, than go for it. If it’s a “kinda” then maybe keep saving as you determine what specifically you want.

A few other things:
- better to go slow rather than buy a ton of new higher end stuff at once
- question 3 is a bit less relevant once your wardrobe gets bigger and you buy more seasonal/specific items (for example: I only wear my linen sportcoat a few times a summer; I only wear my heavy tweed in the dead of winter)
- try to buy/commission clothing with a bit more allowance for alterations so that you can attempt to tailor as your body matures (I wish I was still my college weight!)

 

[jcortez]

Saman Amel seem to be insanely overpriced for what they are offering - 4k SEK for a regular shirt is crazy. For that money I expect a shirt from the 100 hands.
So I assume their MTM would cost you more than bespoke from https://gotrich.com/en with a lot less creative freedom.
Also, I don't think it's a good idea to commit to expensive MTM just when you are starting - chances are your style will evolve and eventually you might no longer like your 2k usd MTM suit.
I'd rather go for a cheaper RTW until you'll dial-in your style. That's ofc, if RTW pattern works for your body. Also, it's a lot easier to sell a second hand suit from Suitsupply online than selling something from a very niche brand

Can't say I disagree with you on the first part.

I've found a few other similar brands which I'm trying to look into. I may be wrong, but Gotrich seems be to based in Sweden and doesn't travel (I live in the US). I've also come across J. Mueser who's based in NYC and Rose & Born who do travel. They both (claim to) offer hand-stitched canvassing for more competitive prices (<$2,500, whereas Saman Amel's machine-made starts at $3,000). The struggle has been with finding reviews online.

As for style, while this would be my first custom suit, this is (relatively) far from my introduction to menswear, and while I can't say that my taste will never change, I can say that Saman Amel's style has spoken to me far more than that of other tailors.

 

[breakaway01]

Super boring response because I don't know your financial situation, but even though you apparently could afford to spend $3k on a suit, could that money be better used elsewhere? Do you have a rainy day fund already? If you already do, $3k invested at the historic return of the S&P 500 becomes ~$50K in 30 years. Or spend it on travel or other experiences, not material goods.

If you are still intent on getting a ‘nicer’ suit, my two cents are (1) it is common for bodies to change after college, and (2) your preferences in fit and style will very likely continue to change. Agree with @St1X that I'd go with RTW that fits you well, assuming that your build is compatible with RTW.

 

[bicycleradical]

Being that you are in Sweden, check out what Berg and Berg have.

 

[FPB]

Second hand. Nowadays many suits on ebay were worn once or twice (or never). Then get it tailored.

 

[acconrad]

What's your budget? Ebay a good value brand like Isaia for $250-300 in a staple color (navy/charcoal) and call it a day

 

[TomTom]

Suit SUpply..thank me later.

 

[Oswald Cornelius]

You're getting very good advice here, JC. It's easy to get infatuated with things like this but... to what end? My recommendation--find a RTW brand that has the quality and price that works for you. Shop the sales and usual outlets. Find a good alterations tailor. Sweat the fit and details. Buy good shirts and shoes, decent off-duty clothes too, nice sports watch and a nice dress watch. Stay fit and trim (I assume you are!) You'll dress and look better than 95% of the guys you see at the office and happy hour. Work hard, keep your head down, bank and invest a bunch of bucks. If you're still into it five years after you graduate, set yourself a goal to have a bespoke suit made when you reach a major career goal or milestone in life.

 

[philosophe]

Where do you live? What are your options for trying on well-made RTW in a shop wtih a good menswear selection? If I were you, I'd want to try on a half dozen mid to higher end suits and see how they look and feel. If there's nothing right where you live, what about a shopping trip somewhere?

Overall, there's no great rush, and it may take you awhile to find your style, decipher what's right for your professional setting(s), etc.

Last but not least, don't skimp on good shoes, a good looking watch, and good accessories (ties, etc.) Tasteful, good quality accessories make any suit look worlds better.

 

[Sam Hober]

"Of course everyone has a slightly different internal calculus when it comes to cost and value. What is too expensice for one could be cheap for another. How I usually try to solve these decisions is some version of the below:
1. Can you can reasonably afford or save up for the item?
2. Will it make you happy/bring you joy/make you feel good?
3. Will you wear it often enough to feel “worth” the investment?
If the answer to all is a resounding YES, than go for it. If it’s a “kinda” then maybe keep saving as you determine what specifically you want.
A few other things:
- better to go slow rather than buy a ton of new higher end stuff at once
- question 3 is a bit less relevant once your wardrobe gets bigger and you buy more seasonal/specific items (for example: I only wear my linen sportcoat a few times a summer; I only wear my heavy tweed in the dead of winter)
- try to buy/commission clothing with a bit more allowance for alterations so that you can attempt to tailor as your body matures (I wish I was still my college weight!)"

Great advice from Jerry Go

 

[mebiuspower]

What's your budget? Ebay a good value brand like Isaia for $250-300 in a staple color (navy/charcoal) and call it a day

I'd like you to posts some ebay links for $300 Isaia suits.

 

[acconrad]

Gianluca Isaia Napoli Suit Super 120's 44R - 36W x 32L Midnight Blue 3-2 Roll | eBay

3-2 Roll Front Button. Inseam: 32" ( folded hem, 1" to let down inside hem ). Length : 31.20". top shelf, quality, ready-to-own gems. Waist: 36" (1"-2" of fabric to let out). Thickness (1-5): 2.5.

www.ebay.com

Isaia Wool Sanita Suit Size 40 Gray 160's | eBay

Pant Waist (across waist x 2): 33 with 1 to let out. Pant Inseam: 31 with 2 to let out. Most buttons are chipped as shown. Discoloration at upper back pant interior as shown. Exterior fabric is excellent with no flaws.

www.ebay.com

 

[mebiuspower]

Gianluca Isaia Napoli Suit Super 120's 44R - 36W x 32L Midnight Blue 3-2 Roll | eBay

3-2 Roll Front Button. Inseam: 32" ( folded hem, 1" to let down inside hem ). Length : 31.20". top shelf, quality, ready-to-own gems. Waist: 36" (1"-2" of fabric to let out). Thickness (1-5): 2.5.

www.ebay.com

Isaia Wool Sanita Suit Size 40 Gray 160's | eBay

Pant Waist (across waist x 2): 33 with 1 to let out. Pant Inseam: 31 with 2 to let out. Most buttons are chipped as shown. Discoloration at upper back pant interior as shown. Exterior fabric is excellent with no flaws.

www.ebay.com

The first one it is questionable if it is Isaia, looks like something that they made on behalf of a big box retailer. It could also be from 10+ years ago as the labels don't match the current Isaia labels.

Second one is not staple color (navy/charcoal), has surgeon cuffs, so unless your sleeve length is perfectly the same as the previuos owner, you're screwed.