Boots made by Russell Moccasin Company -- experiences

[dieworkwear]



Some of the custom stuff for the Japan market is really nice....this looks like the South 40 Birdshooter in Tan French Veal but not 100% sure...will they do any custom options you want?

That's a standard style, just not in their current catalog. It's the "Double Moccasin Bottom Birdshooter" (style #S8030-27), but made to a shorter 6" height, so you only get 7 eyelets. I'm having that same style made now, based off an old Ralph Lauren archive shoe. The original pair they made for me didn't fit well, however, so they're being remade right now. Photo of the original RL boots:

 

[oldfrump]

I have a pair of the Art Carter chukkas inthe German Elk leather. I figured it might be tougher than the French veal, but that's just an assumption.
I've been thinking of getting a pair of boots, like the Imperial or maybe the all leather mountain PH.
To the previous poster, what leather options would you recommend for a tough, long lasting boot? I'm not interested in any of the exotic leathers.

Russell is very high on the French Veal, and I can understand why. I have a pair in tan, my wife in black. It has a wonderful feel on the foot, is beautiful in way photos cannot capture, the patina gets very good over time, and Russell says it is very strong. But it would not be my choice to head into the woods with - although I think Russell would disagree. I also have a pair of Sporting Clay Chukkas in the German Elk (really a cowhide) which are clearly less affected by ordinary wear, particularly abrasions. And I now have a pair of Kangaroo boots which may be even tougher!

Are the American Bison and Kangaroo exotics? If not, then those two plus German Elk, probably in that order. If water resistance is a priority it would be the Bison. Otherwise my preferences between those would be so slight I would be influenced by the price. All are really great boot leather so there is no bad choice.

Russell has many leathers from Horween, Foote, and some others here in the US (I asked) plus some European suppliers. Not all of them are mentioned on their website and I certainly do not know them all. When you get ready to order just call them and ask for a recommendation.

 

[popman1967]

That's a standard style, just not in their current catalog. It's the "Double Moccasin Bottom Birdshooter" (style #S8030-27), but made to a shorter 6" height, so you only get 7 eyelets.

I'm having that same style made now, based off an old Ralph Lauren archive shoe. The original pair they made for me didn't fit well, however, so they're being remade right now.

Photo of the original RL boots:

Thanks for the info! This is now the boot I will go for once I figure out color...sole...and other options.

 

[Bill S]

I wouldn't consider bison or kangaroo to be exotics. I know kangaroo is very tough and supple as it is often used in soccer cleats and seems pretty durable for that purpose. I'm not sure about the look of bison. I prefer a smooth leather. That's the reason why I haven't gone with Russel's weather tough leather.
I requested and received a bunch of leather samples back when I ordered my Art Carters. At the time, Mr. Fabricius' daughter told me that French veal was no longer what it used to be and, in her opinion, didn't warrant the added cost. She said it was due to changes in the tanning process, probably due to environmental concerns. But her father still touts its virtues so who knows. I like the look and feel of it. Just not sure about abrasion resistance over time. So many choices.

 

[oldfrump]

Just an observation, not in any way a criticism:

That Ralph Lauren Double Moccasin Bird Shooter, has a double mid sole. The leather mid sole which you see in the photo is stitched (and glued) to the standard black mid sole. This is done to make the shoe stiffer and more stable on rough ground and is a really desirable feature if you need it. It also looks more like a welted shoe and has a more rugged appearance, which it is. You cannot actually see the second mid sole in the photo as both it and the out sole are black, but the perimeter stitching is the giveaway.

That is a good looking boot and I am a big fan of that height.

But be aware of the downside of the two mid soles, which is more weight and a loss of flexibility. If you want that boot with the standard moccasin flexibility you could simply leave out the black mid sole, however you would lose the look of the stitching and the sole would appear a bit thinner.

I only bring it up because a) picking your own options is a great feature with Russell, and b) these things are so expensive and we all have our expectations so high it is worth the trouble to try and figure out what you really want.

 

[Thomasgstern]

 

[Thomasgstern]

I was going through the Russel Moccasin website - new, not greatly improved - looking for a home for yet another $400 or so when I ran across this new entry:

Details are sketchy, but it appears to be a double vamp, oak leather mid-sole, Danite sole with stacked leather and Danite heel, and one beautiful piece of pebble grained leather. $410, custom only. As I said above, they really only make one style, but this is one handsome version. Apparently your choice of the color shown. Man, do I wish I could think of a good excuse to order a pair.

I was about to get these (Russell Classic Pebble Grain High Lace Chukka) but they can't make them with the double vamp.

 

[oldfrump]

I was about to get these (Russell Classic Pebble Grain High Lace Chukka) but they can't make them with the double vamp.

I'd call for clarification. In other contexts, "double vamp" is what Russell calls a leather lining. The catalog photo clearly shows a leather lining. The catalog description states it is "fully leather lined". I just assumed that is the same as a double vamp, but they may distinguish between the two somehow.

Now that I think of it, my wife has a pair of their Convention Walkers that is leather lined, but the seam is on the bottom. The double vamp has the seam on the top - to improve water resistance. That may be the difference between a leather lining and a double vamp - the leather lining being used when appearance is more important than water resistance. Just guessing, really.

I really like the looks of that shoe.

Their phone is 920-361-2252.

 

[popman1967]

Hey Oldfrump which sole would you recommend for mostly urban situations....something shock absorbing but long lasting? The Air Bob with the little round threads or maybe the Aspen gumlite? thanks in advance.

 

[oldfrump]

You are not going to make a bad choice with either, which is always nice.

Russell's web page on sole choices is here: http://www.russellmoccasin.com/sole-options/

The Gumlite is more cushioned, lighter weight, designed for everyday wear on hard surfaces, and perform the same in black or brown. It is similar to, but more durable than nitrocellulose foam. The Air-Bob has more grip but has a different compound for the brown than for the black. The black is longer wearing (probably carbon content, just like tires), while the brown has better cushion and more shock absorption. The black, is known to "squeak" on some surfaces; the brown may be better. The Air-Bob is 1/2 pound heavier in an average size - not a trivial amount - and will track in more stuff.

Get the Gumlite for more of a barefoot moccasin experience. I'd choose the Air-Bob only if wear is the most important criteria. Or if you just prefer the looks.

 

[broken_oracle]

Not my sale, etc. etc., but anyone wearing a size 8 here may want to check out this pair of the Minimalist Thula Thula style in Chromexcel... pretty damn beautiful!

 

[popman1967]

The "Birdshooter" optioned out seems the way to go...looks like it would break in beautifully and be tough and comfortable.Some nice ideas on this page..
http://www.cosmicjumper.com/russell_BS.html

 

[Toby Price]

Can anyone help me out with the sizing on Russell Moccasin Sporting Clay Chukkas? and anywhere that stocks them? Im a UK9 in most shoes and wear US10/UK9.5 in New Balance I'm guessing a might need to go half a size down (9.5US/8.5UK) would that be correct? Im in the UK and nowhere stocks them over here so want to make sure i get the size right for if i find anywhere overseas that will ship them to me

 

[Fooleo]

Can anyone help me out with the sizing on Russell Moccasin Sporting Clay Chukkas? and anywhere that stocks them? Im a UK9 in most shoes and wear US10/UK9.5 in New Balance I'm guessing a might need to go half a size down (9.5US/8.5UK) would that be correct? Im in the UK and nowhere stocks them over here so want to make sure i get the size right for if i find anywhere overseas that will ship them to me

I actually just ordered a pair for myself, but went direct through Russell and sent them tracings. Though it may cost more being overseas, I highly recommend doing it. I ordered a khaki laramie suede sporting clays chukka with a leather midsole, on a brown vibram 2060, with 4 eyelets instead of 3. Came out to about $400, which is still about $200 less than that same make up from most Japanese Stockists. The people at russells are incredibly helpful in answering questions, and really will make sure you get a perfect fit.

 

[Toby Price]

I actually just ordered a pair for myself, but went direct through Russell and sent them tracings. Though it may cost more being overseas, I highly recommend doing it. I ordered a khaki laramie suede sporting clays chukka with a leather midsole, on a brown vibram 2060, with 4 eyelets instead of 3. Came out to about $400, which is still about $200 less than that same make up from most Japanese Stockists. The people at russells are incredibly helpful in answering questions, and really will make sure you get a perfect fit.

Thanks for the reply mate, may look into that myself. Will try get in touch with them and see if they'll send them to me in the UK. Thanks