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The Despos Thread - Page 19

post #271 of 376
When you straighten a shoulder by 1/4" it shifts the fronts forward at the hem almost 3/4", making the fronts closer and less open. It brings the skirt in closer on the hip too.
It does create more cloth across the chest and gives more room across the back.

Brendon, you seem fixated on straight cuts but doesn't it really depend on a clients figure and needs?
post #272 of 376
Interesting.
post #273 of 376
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Interesting.

Yes, it is, isn't it.
post #274 of 376
Yes, it is.
post #275 of 376
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brendon View Post

A straightened coat really was the culmination of 100 years of tailoring from the more frock coat origins of the suit. I had not heard of open quarters referred to in any of may tailor and cutter magazines going back to the 50's or in my collection of Cutting books going back to 1890's including JP Thorntons 1st and 2nd Editions, Caxtons The Modern Tailor Clothier.Outfitter 1st Editions onwards. So where does the term come from please.

I think it's mostly a term among online (lay) enthusiasts of tailoring, but here's Jeffery Diduch's post on the subject.
post #276 of 376
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Edited by F. Corbera - 6/25/12 at 4:19pm
post #277 of 376
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Edited by F. Corbera - 6/25/12 at 4:40pm
post #278 of 376
Quote:
One of the NY tailors who was then/is now active online used this term, as did one of the English tailors who was not/is not active online. Both, however, had/have customers who are, and well, there we are.

I hope that's clear.
May I say, I admire your eloquent precision.
post #279 of 376
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

May I say, I admire your eloquent precision.

Demosthenes had his small stones; I have my olives.
post #280 of 376
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

Demosthenes had his small stones; I have my olives.

I thought we had reached agreement elsewhere today to leave sex out of these discussions.
post #281 of 376
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldog/oldtrix View Post

I thought we had reached agreement elsewhere today to leave sex out of these discussions.

I'm what they call a dissenting voice.
post #282 of 376
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

I'm what they call a dissenting voice.

Like a ii-V7-I cadence.
post #283 of 376
I sure wish that Portnoy guy would post some of his Despos creations.
post #284 of 376
Quote:
Originally Posted by aportnoy View Post

I sure wish that Portnoy guy would post some of his Despos creations.
post #285 of 376
Quote:
Originally Posted by aportnoy View Post

I sure wish that Portnoy guy would post some of his Despos creations.

Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by aportnoy View Post

I sure wish that Portnoy guy would post some of his Despos creations.

Impressive, No?
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