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The Despos Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Aug 27, 2010.

  1. emptym

    emptym Well-Known Member

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    Is this to mean Foo>Bull ?
    Sure.
    Maybe in terms of law school. Although Brown has produced some good people, a couple of them highly regarded here, one more for his pictures and the other for his words... And there's been evidence here that not all of GU's products have been stellar.
    Pictures of Despos work? Anyone? Anyone?
    We are waiting for Aportnoy to steel his chin against the hords.
    Warning...Despos Content...Warning! "The earnest and affable Chris Despos (not yet out of his 30s), of Despos Custom Tailoring, in Dallas, comes to New York to spend his two-week vacation studying patternmaking with the great master tailor Henry Stewart." - Professional Clothing Writer, G. Bruce Boyer, in Town & Country Magazine, November 1991 The NYT obit from 1993 about Stewart. More and more on Stewart.
    Thank you. Sad how old the people working w/ Stewart were. The "baby" in the second link would be 69 now. Of course, the others mention Shattuck and Despos. Wonder if he had any other young'uns workin' with 'im.
    Alright, another coat to help a derailed thread: (http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum...php?f=4&t=8592) [​IMG]
    Thank you. That is very nice.
    I do give you props for Agnew. Here's a blog post by the guy who forced Breanish into Despos's shears.
    Thank you.
     
  2. OttoSkadelig

    OttoSkadelig Well-Known Member

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    Alright, another coat to help a derailed thread: (http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum...php?f=4&t=8592)
    [​IMG]


    am i the only one to think that this particular one doesn't particularly flatter the wearer? it hangs stiffly and isn't sufficiently shaped -- an overly boxy, sack-like aesthetic that doesn't do the wearer any favors, particularly since he's on the short side.

    possibly a stylistic choice by the customer rather than of the tailor, but not an example that i would have picked for a flattering cut.
     
  3. emptym

    emptym Well-Known Member

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    ^If you click the link, you'll read that Yachtie requested a clean look. It's not what I prefer, but I think he looks great in it. And imo, to judge how flattering the cut is, you'd have to know what his body looks like, which we don't. Although, iirc, he has posted that he's not in the best of shape.
     
  4. OttoSkadelig

    OttoSkadelig Well-Known Member

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    fair enough, let me rephrase. i don't think it makes him look particularly good, no matter what his body type, and i still think the jacket hangs like a stiff "A".

    it is possible that the real issue is that he's not cut out for a DB.
     
  5. TRINI

    TRINI Well-Known Member

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    i still think the jacket hangs like a stiff "A".

    I see this too.

    I also wonder if it has anything to do with the camera angle....
     
  6. OttoSkadelig

    OttoSkadelig Well-Known Member

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    I see this too.

    I also wonder if it has anything to do with the camera angle....


    probably to some degree. the harsh lighting also probably doesn't help overall.

    but angle and lighting aside, you can see that the width of the jacket at the bottom of the skirt is practically as wide as his shoulders, which contributes to the "A" effect.

    the skirt also seems to flare out from the button point. which makes me wonder if a lower button point, or one that is 1 cm less tight, would have prevented the "A" flare, and whether a slightly more built-up shoulder would have helped balance things out.

    the stiffness is likely the result of the structure.

    in the grand scheme of things i suspect that it's primarily the wearer's physique that imposed a certain number of constraints, and despos did the best he could to work around them.

    regardless, it's still not an example that i would have picked. i found the one posted earlier in this thread (p2 or thereabouts) much more compelling, even though, admittedly, it's on a mannequin.

    despos, it would be great if you could comment. if it's awkward because you don't want to publicly comment on a client, that's perfectly understandable. but if i am making incorrect calls on the technicalities as i see them, your perspective would be valuable.
     
  7. George

    George Well-Known Member

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    He's posing for a picture.
     
  8. OttoSkadelig

    OttoSkadelig Well-Known Member

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  9. George

    George Well-Known Member

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    and? the sky is blue.
    Well, it's not how he would normally stand is it? When you are being fitted an experience tailor will try to get you to stand as naturally as the situation allows.
     
  10. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    and? the sky is blue.
    The danger of judging a piece of tailoring by a still picture in terms of something like "stiffness" is that whatever you observe might have nothing to do with the tailoring. It's simply too vague and subjective a measure.
     
  11. teddieriley

    teddieriley Well-Known Member

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    Wait, you smell that?
    You can't make someone with a George Costanza body look like Brad Pitt. Based on one pic and the military stance, I still think you can conclude it is a very nicely made and well-fitting jacket.
     
  12. OttoSkadelig

    OttoSkadelig Well-Known Member

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    well, the camera (along with death) is the great equalizer. i don't see how it particularly disadvantages one individual more than any other.

    i suspect the real issue is the wearer's physique. but in the interest of interweb decorum (and interforum respect for members who have the balls to post pictures of themselves), i will abstain from further comment and return the microphone to you guys.
     
  13. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    You can't make someone with a George Costanza body look like Brad Pitt. Based on one pic and the military stance, I still think you can conclude it is a very nicely made and well-fitting jacket.

    I think the key is that it's hard to find anything 'wrong' with the suit. Sleeves like that, for example, are pretty rare in RTW.
     
  14. George

    George Well-Known Member

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    IIRC,that coat of Yachtie's pictured is made out of Harrison's Moonbeam cloth which is very soft.
     
  15. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    Read Yachties comments on the London Lounge link and it will clarify some points.

    He was not wanting any extra cloth in the chest. I would get the chest fitted how I liked and then reduce it another 1/2". I like to emphasize the chest and shoulder and think a fuller chest would help here. He refers to this in his comments.

    Yachtie wears his jacket buttoned at all times and the button stance was determined while he was sitting. to find the optimum point while seated. That is also why the skirt flares a bit, to allow some movement while seated.

    For perspective, you are looking at man just under 6' tall with a 48 chest and 0 drop.
     
  16. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

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    Many of those old photographs of yachtie were also taken, I believe, while he was on a fitness improvement strategy that included weight loss. He was holding off alterations/recuts until he was closer to his goals.

    Aportnoy did something similar, and in the process replaced a lot of RTW/MTM pieces with bespoke numbers.

    Online candid photographs of the work of good tailors are few and far between. The impression that they give, particularly for those makers not at the higher volume marks, will be skewed to their most enthusiastic vanity photography customers. I suppose that can work for or against a particular tailor.

    One of the things to look for in yachtie's pictures is that he is quite knowledgable and discerning about features or configurations that come from an earlier age. There is nothing RTW about his look (except the Aldens that typically shod his feet,) and that speaks well to Despos's ability to accommodate a client with ideas of his own. That's one of the things that custom or bespoke tailoring can be at it's best.

    - B
     
  17. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    Chris, does the wrap coat have a hidden button inside?
     
  18. OttoSkadelig

    OttoSkadelig Well-Known Member

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    For perspective, you are looking at man just under 6' tall with a 48 chest and 0 drop.

    that's what i suspected. thanks for clarifying.
     
  19. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    Chris, does the wrap coat have a hidden button inside?

    Not to my knowledge, unless it is hidden really well.
     
  20. jefferyd

    jefferyd Well-Known Member

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    it hangs stiffly

    The danger of judging a piece of tailoring by a still picture in terms of something like "stiffness" is that whatever you observe might have nothing to do with the tailoring. .

    Or it might have everything to do with the tailoring. I would venture to say that we are so unaccustomed to seeing something fits and hangs correctly without pulling our buckling or obvious defects that we interpret the cleanliness of such a masterstroke as "stiffness".


    Sleeves like that, for example, are pretty rare anywhere.

    FTFY
     

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