Blog update: Rubinacci jacket, Anna M. shirt, Ambrosi pants, etc.

Originally Posted by Coho

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Like I said, anyone with an ounce of intelligence will filter these "nitpicks" and rationalize whether one is valid over the other. YOU seem like a big fan of the OP, which is understandable, but annoying as hell to read.

Sorry for leading the discourse to a tangent, but I noticed some mean comments on your blog and I was the anonymous poster responding to that a$$hole with the "t" comment. You were right in deleting his comment but I'm glad you still let anonymous replies. It's easy and not everyone has a blog account.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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It's scary stuff posting photos. The worst comments are not here--these are all civil and polite. On my blog, I sometimes get comments attacking my race, physical appearance, height, etc. There are only so many times one can take their face being called "tw*t"-like.

Originally Posted by iammatt

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I said nothing. Part of me likes mine more, and part of me likes yours more. Our bodies are not exactly shaped similarly, though.

Haha, I would definitely not expect anything to look the same on you and I, despite our mutual tailors. I know what you mean when you say you like both more in different ways. Afterall, I saw how your shirt fit before deciding to order mine. I imagine it's quite possible Anna would not have thought it as flattering to go snugger on me.

Speaking of Anna's shirts, I understand much better now why you prefer Rubinacci's softer, lighter ties. Her collars really demand them. The Marinella tie is the weakest component of this outfit, if you ask me. I love the pattern and color of it, but it's too stiff and bulky, which makes it difficult to get the collar to sit right. Oh well, lesson learned.

Originally Posted by Coho

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Sorry for leading the discourse to a tangent, but I noticed some mean comments on your blog and I was the anonymous poster responding to that a$$hole with the "t" comment. You were right in deleting his comment but I'm glad you still let anonymous replies. It's easy and not everyone has a blog account.

I let pretty much any comment stand so that people can say what they think. If you look back at older ones, you'll notice that there are plenty that are less than approving. I just delete ones that have no thoughtful content whatsover, use over-offensive language, or are derogatory. Thanks for the concern.

Jacket looks great. Especially the one-button, patch pocket design. I'm going to take some notes one that one. Fabric choice is really nice, too. The only thing I might consider is shorter cuffs on your shirt.

mafoofan - Is that a Porter & Harding fabric?

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

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mafoofan - Is that a Porter & Harding fabric?

I have no idea.

I really like the treatment of the skirt and the length of the jacket. We have a very similar build and height and I've been going with a similar length jacket; these photos are convincing me I was right.

Did you end up getting that DB? I'm more convinced it would work; perhaps with a low button stance?

Originally Posted by summej2

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Did you end up getting that DB? I'm more convinced it would work; perhaps with a low button stance?

The DB is ordered, but I won't have it until September when I go back to Naples. They're going to figure out the button stance there.

I like the fit of the jacket more than I do the shirt.

It may be the angle of the picture but the cut of the shirt makes you look rather barrel-chested.

Great outfit overall. I will add my voice to those who don't like these double-pleated pants. I understand that's what your tailor recommended but I don't think they look good on you

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

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Well, I happen to believe the buttoning point is too high by 1/18th of an inch - throws off the balance of the entire coat.

You should have your monitor calibrated. It's more like 1/19th of an inch off.

Perhaps the nitpickers have a point, but having seen the same Rubinacci articles online in pictures and in person, I think it's very, very hard to capture their look correctly, especially frozen in time, and especially because of the drape. These pictures are a shadow of the real thing, and no one should make a decision about these things without seeing them in real life.

What I see in Matt (Fan's) pictures jives with how spectacular Rubinaccis look in real life (but on the other Matt). Someone who may not have seen the actual thing itself may not be able to extrapolate to the actual look of the thing.

--Andre

This stuff all looks great and I have only two comments.
1: Re the shirt and number of buttons. Observations that the shirt looks like it is shy a button are correct, but I don't think it matters. In a photo, you can infer that the shirt front might be shorter than usual, implying that the wearer is shorter than usual. In real life, anyone seeing you in your shirtsleeves will know exactly how tall you are, so this is a non-issue. If you like the spacing leave it. If you want another button, get one. But it won't make any difference one way or another to people's perceptions or your appearance. It only matters in photos.

2: Your shirt fits about as well as anyone could reasonably want. Which points out to me that worrying about shirt fit is more of a personal indulgence. It is obvious to me that the sportcoat makes you look well-dressed. It is a great investment in tailoring with a great result. The shirt, on the other hand, does nothing for you. Not because the shirt or your physique are bad. Rather, it is because, to me, shirts just can't do a whole lot. They either fit or they don't and among the shirts that fit, they will all have more or less the same affect on your appearance (putting aside choices like cloth or collar styles). As an outsider, non-hobbyist, judging your appearance, I think a decently fitting shirt from any of a dozen makers would convey more or less the same impression. That is not to say, you shouldn't indulge - especially in cloths if you like them. Only that it is more of a personal indulgence.

That said, the cloth looks like it has a great hand, but I am already on record saying I don't care much about shirt cloth either (100s are as good as I need).

BTW, the pleats are fine, but then I usually get them too. I have gotten some flat fronts on non-suit trousers, but I just don't think they look as good with a sportcoat. On the other hand, I do like flat fronts better on the rare days when I don't wear a jacket.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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Bill, thanks for the thoughtful analysis. However, I don't see what's wrong with the sleeves. You see 'lifeless', but I just see sleeves that hang nicely. Rubinacci sleeves are typically quite full. Is it possible we are just disagreeing over a general matter of style?

"Lifeless" is hyperbole...basically, what I mean is that the forward line of the sleeve is more vertical and inorganic than I would have expected. I can't believe you arms hang that vertically, and unless you are both straightening your shoulders and moving your wrists back in the photographs, the sleeves do strike me as a bit "straighter" than what I would prefer for myself.

I will try to get a shot tomorrow of the sleeve of a single button tweed coat (superficially similar to your coat) that I have to illustrate what I am trying to describe.

Both your tailor and mine use trumpeted sleeves that are worked into smaller, high armholes, with a draped chest, so I hope to get a good enough shot to make the comparison interesting.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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With regard to the back: I see the trangular rippling you and others have mentioned. However, that's not present in all the photos and it's worth noting that I felt most self-conscious when being photographed from behind.

I can see why one would prefer less waist supression and wish it placed differently. Yet, I have to say, I don't see any real problem with it. In fact, I quite like it. Of course, I suppose that's the hazard of highly expressive tailoring: some will love it, some will hate it.

I haven't read all the messages in this thread, but I would be shocked if anyone hated your coat. I certainly like it very, very much...the whole ensemble as a matter of fact. It's debonair...and to be that well put together at your age shows great taste.

I do wonder, though, if the bunching in your upper back when you straighten your shoulders has some relationiship to the degree of drop going down from your upper to mid back...if it were a bit less sudden, or less fitted let's say, the bunching might be attenuated. I associate a draped coat with keeping its good looks across a wider range of motion than a more structured, clean coat, which is why I am suprised to see your note that this is typical of Rubinacci. Maybe I am just more used to drape going into the scye.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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Well, I can't say I intend to have anything 'fixed' on this jacket. I think it's worth keeping in mind that photos only capture one moment in time and are very unforgiving in that regard. Maybe I'm just less picky than most here, but I'm thrilled with the results.

I think it is worth having Mr. Rubinacci look at the sleeves and the fit of the collar...tweaks are just a fact of life with bespoke that is also handmade, and you are still probably are at the point in your commisions where tangible refinements can be noted for the future.

- B

Originally Posted by Coho

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Like I said, anyone with an ounce of intelligence will filter these "nitpicks" and rationalize whether one is valid over the other. YOU seem like a big fan of the OP, which is understandable, but annoying as hell to read.

Wow, I make one comment about the OP's jacket and now I am a big fan? Get real.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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Speaking of Anna's shirts, I understand much better now why you prefer Rubinacci's softer, lighter ties. Her collars really demand them. The Marinella tie is the weakest component of this outfit, if you ask me. I love the pattern and color of it, but it's too stiff and bulky, which makes it difficult to get the collar to sit right. Oh well, lesson learned.


You may want to consider one of Anna's ties. I have one in linen and one in silk that I each like a lot, and t4phage posted pics of a 7 fold that looked great too.