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Post pictures of a *properly* fitting dress shirt!
- Thread starter Ligament
- Start date
- Watchers 7
I prefer them blousier, and with longer sleeves. No matter what my movement is, I prefer not to have any straining or pulling at the placket, and I like my cuff to just hit my hand when I bend it back.Originally Posted by TCN
Edit: This was in regard to the first photo posted, The Fox's photo above looks like a good fit to me; fitted, but not tight.
A Y
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Matt's shirt is a custom shirt from Anna Matuozzo. I don't think there is a shirtmaker in the US that hand-sets and -sews sleeves. They're all attached with a sewing machine.
I wonder if anyone's tried to get a Hong Kong shirtmaker to copy the pattern, if not the construction method, of an AM.
--Andre
I wonder if anyone's tried to get a Hong Kong shirtmaker to copy the pattern, if not the construction method, of an AM.
--Andre
Taxler
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Matt's shirt is a custom shirt from Anna Matuozzo. I don't think there is a shirtmaker in the US that hand-sets and -sews sleeves. They're all attached with a sewing machine.Originally Posted by Andre Yew
I wonder if anyone's tried to get a Hong Kong shirtmaker to copy the pattern, if not the construction method, of an AM.
--Andre
Robert Talbott Estate shirts are made in the US with hand sewn arms and collar, but they don't have shirred sleeve heads.
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my shirts tend to billow out at the back, not the front...do i just need to have a tailor take it in some more only in the back, or do i just need to tuck it in properly? it fits well all around other than the back bottom portion.Originally Posted by stickonatree
just dart the back. only dont let the darts go down into the seat area.
you just want the excess taken in at the small of the back.tell the tailor that.
Henry Boogers
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just dart the back. only dont let the darts go down into the seat area.Originally Posted by a tailor
you just want the excess taken in at the small of the back.tell the tailor that.
Why would you dart the back rather than take in the excess material at the side seams? Just curious, as I've had tremendous success having the sides taken in.
username79
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Seeing an AM and a Brioni MTM in the same thread makes the $1K for the AM (or more?) seem like a bargain.
The fit on that Brioni is quite poor for what they charge.
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Seeing an AM and a Brioni MTM in the same thread makes the $1K for the AM (or more?) seem like a bargain.Originally Posted by arnach
It is even more of a bargain seeing as the AM is more like $400. FWIW, I think that a well cut dress shirt should fit pretty darn close to the body without much blousliness at all. If the shirt is too full it will interfere with the fit of a well cut suit and you really don't want that happening.
kolecho
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Matt,
I noticed that there is little excess fabric above the cuff in the scan that Ed posted. That implies that the cuff is not tight around the wrists so that the cuffs may slide back when your arms are raised. Is that right?
Groovy furniture BTW
![icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif](https://www.styleforum.net/images/smilies/icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif)
I noticed that there is little excess fabric above the cuff in the scan that Ed posted. That implies that the cuff is not tight around the wrists so that the cuffs may slide back when your arms are raised. Is that right?
Groovy furniture BTW
mbc
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Why would you dart the back rather than take in the excess material at the side seams? Just curious, as I've had tremendous success having the sides taken in.Originally Posted by Henry Boogers
My amateur understanding of this is that it is an issue of shape. Taking a shirt in at the sides will do exactly that, take the sides in. In my experience this leads to a very narrow silhouette if viewed from the front, but still excess fabric in the back if viewed from the side. Darting in the lower back shapes the shirt to the contour of the person's lower back. I think it's really an issue of the curvature of your lower back and buttocks.
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