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Post pictures of a *properly* fitting dress shirt!

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Ligament, Sep 3, 2004.

  1. Taxler

    Taxler Senior member

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    Matt's shirt is a custom shirt from Anna Matuozzo. I don't think there is a shirtmaker in the US that hand-sets and -sews sleeves. They're all attached with a sewing machine.

    I wonder if anyone's tried to get a Hong Kong shirtmaker to copy the pattern, if not the construction method, of an AM.

    --Andre


    Robert Talbott Estate shirts are made in the US with hand sewn arms and collar, but they don't have shirred sleeve heads.
     
  2. Douglas

    Douglas Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Is it me, or the camera angle, or does this shirt not have a yoke at all?
     
  3. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    my shirts tend to billow out at the back, not the front...do i just need to have a tailor take it in some more only in the back, or do i just need to tuck it in properly? it fits well all around other than the back bottom portion.

    just dart the back. only dont let the darts go down into the seat area.
    you just want the excess taken in at the small of the back.tell the tailor that.
     
  4. Henry Boogers

    Henry Boogers Senior member

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    just dart the back. only dont let the darts go down into the seat area.
    you just want the excess taken in at the small of the back.tell the tailor that.



    Why would you dart the back rather than take in the excess material at the side seams? Just curious, as I've had tremendous success having the sides taken in.
     
  5. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Senior member

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    yep, there is a yoke (not split, it is one-piece) but it is set very high and extends to the front of the shirt's shoulders. my photo didn't quite catch enough of the top of the shirt, in the back view.
     
  6. username79

    username79 Senior member

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    Seeing an AM and a Brioni MTM in the same thread makes the $1K for the AM (or more?) seem like a bargain. [​IMG] The fit on that Brioni is quite poor for what they charge.
     
  7. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Seeing an AM and a Brioni MTM in the same thread makes the $1K for the AM (or more?) seem like a bargain. [​IMG] The fit on that Brioni is quite poor for what they charge.
    It is even more of a bargain seeing as the AM is more like $400. FWIW, I think that a well cut dress shirt should fit pretty darn close to the body without much blousliness at all. If the shirt is too full it will interfere with the fit of a well cut suit and you really don't want that happening.
     
  8. kolecho

    kolecho Senior member

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    Matt,

    I noticed that there is little excess fabric above the cuff in the scan that Ed posted. That implies that the cuff is not tight around the wrists so that the cuffs may slide back when your arms are raised. Is that right?

    Groovy furniture BTW [​IMG]
     
  9. kolecho

    kolecho Senior member

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    The Foxx's shirt has excess fabric on the right front panel, probably caused by a sloping right shoulder. This shirtmaker does not know how to adjust for this? Brioni? OMG.
     
  10. mbc

    mbc Senior member

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    Why would you dart the back rather than take in the excess material at the side seams? Just curious, as I've had tremendous success having the sides taken in.
    My amateur understanding of this is that it is an issue of shape. Taking a shirt in at the sides will do exactly that, take the sides in. In my experience this leads to a very narrow silhouette if viewed from the front, but still excess fabric in the back if viewed from the side. Darting in the lower back shapes the shirt to the contour of the person's lower back. I think it's really an issue of the curvature of your lower back and buttocks.
     
  11. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Senior member

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    naw, don't fault Brioni on that one-- I sent only a couple of measurement requirements in, and Brioni sent me the shirt thru a retailer. I didn't have all the measurements taken, as is normal at a store like Bergdorf or Barneys.
     
  12. Henry Boogers

    Henry Boogers Senior member

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    My amateur understanding of this is that it is an issue of shape. Taking a shirt in at the sides will do exactly that, take the sides in. In my experience this leads to a very narrow silhouette if viewed from the front, but still excess fabric in the back if viewed from the side. Darting in the lower back shapes the shirt to the contour of the person's lower back. I think it's really an issue of the curvature of your lower back and buttocks.

    Mine are perfectly fitted 360 degrees around, since this is really no different than making a perfectly fitting shirt as it's the same seam. Is there a lower back fit that you are looking for that cannot be acheived without darts?
     
  13. mbc

    mbc Senior member

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    Mine are perfectly fitted 360 degrees around, since this is really no different than making a perfectly fitting shirt as it's the same seam. Is there a lower back fit that you are looking for that cannot be acheived without darts?
    Only speaking from experience, I've been able to get shirts fitted the way I want with darts and not with having the side seams taken in. Could be that I need a better tailor, could be a lot of things. However, I think it's somewhat telling that more than one professional shirtmaker/tailor on this site repeatedly suggests to posters that the way to get the fit they want is to have their shirts darted in the back. Why would they do that if taking in the side seams would have exactly the same effect?
     
  14. zatarregaza

    zatarregaza Senior member

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    ... I think it's somewhat telling that more than one professional shirtmaker/tailor on this site repeatedly suggests to posters that the way to get the fit they want is to have their shirts darted in the back. Why would they do that if taking in the side seams would have exactly the same effect?

    I wonder what the price difference would be. Which is harder to do? Have the back darted or have the sides taken in?
     
  15. stickonatree

    stickonatree Senior member

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    does anyone have pictures of what the darting would look like? i've never really seen them and i just can't seem to conjure up any images in my head. thanks!
     
  16. Henry Boogers

    Henry Boogers Senior member

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    I wonder what the price difference would be. Which is harder to do? Have the back darted or have the sides taken in?

    My tailor charges either $8 or $12 to do side seams INCLUDING arms (can't remember if it's 8 or 12) and does a very nice job in my opinion. I should start a thread to get feedback and open the discussion of darts vs. side seams but I'm open to any pro-dart arguments people may have here and now.....
     
  17. zatarregaza

    zatarregaza Senior member

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    does anyone have pictures of what the darting would look like? i've never really seen them and i just can't seem to conjure up any images in my head. thanks!

    I did a search after my post above. I found this one thread that explains it all pretty well. Here's one post from that thread that has a picture what darts look like:

    http://styleforum.net/showpost.php?p...7&postcount=52
     
  18. DunninLA

    DunninLA Well-Known Member

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    Well, I've been buying dress shirts now for 28 years, so I guess I've tried about every kind of fitting.

    I have rather wide shouders, but a smaller torso. My torso is also on the shallow side, not too deep.

    So my neck and shoulders fit a european cut 16.5 collared shirt, but my torso fits a 15.5 shirt.

    I always buy a dress shirt to fit my neck, and hopefully shoulders, then the tailor takes in the sides. I believe I pay $10 for that. Sometimes a couple of inches each side, sometimes up to four inches, but there is a limit because of where the shirt meets the arm hole.

    As to sleeve length, that is a question of personal comfort. I don't like my sleeves to pull up more than 1/2" above the wrist when I am seated at my desk writing or on the computer, and certainly never to pull with tension. I like my unbottoned sleeves to hang an inch from the nearest thumb joint, or from the other direction I like it to hang about 2" past the two wrist bones.

    Tailoring shops seem to think this is sloppy. When I bought custom tailored shirts, they seemed to like to cut my sleeves about an inch shorter than I like. Actually they seemed to like everything a little too tight. But comfort and practicality trumps in this case so I buy Off the Shelf and have the tailor adjust every shirt.
     
  19. Mustapha

    Mustapha Senior member

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    "" Actually they seemed to like everything a little too tight. """[/quote]

    So right. No one told me; I had to find out the hard way that you cannot gain weight with a closet full of custom shirts.[​IMG]
     
  20. doughboyr6

    doughboyr6 Well-Known Member

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    i recently bought a robert talbott dress shirt off ebay. Being my first purchase of that brand, i was suprised when i received the product and tried it on...the neck size is perfect and true to size 17.5.

    but everything else is huge...i'm a big guy. I'm 5'10, 48" chest and a big waist with a belly. This shirt could've fit two of me....i'm kinda upset because now i have to spend extra money to get it tailored.

    what can a tailor do and not do? The sleeves will need to be shortened, sides taken in. But can they make the arm holes smaller? Or the overall length of the shirt shorter? Its going down to my thighs....
     

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