Shoe Appreciation: Norvegese, Bentivegna, Goyser, BIG Stitch & BIG Welts ONLY!

Originally Posted by aj_del

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Guess the maker ...

Thoughts on these, I am thinking of getting them

These are nice and the color is gorgeous

Originally Posted by mr monty

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What construction is it? They call it norvegese and it's testoni's top of the line (amedeo testoni)

http://www.testoni.com/ under A. Testoni, click on norwegian construction

I love the Italian government. They are masters of regulation when it comes to their country's money-making industries. They have rules for exactly what an item must contain & how it must be made in order to call it something. From cognac to merlot wine, the place of origin of each ingredient, as well as the % of each ingredient used must be just so, to ensure uniformity. That way a customer always knows exactly what to expect.

For the term, "norvegese", that is not the case. Basically, you can call any kind of shoe construction "norvegese" and still get away with it. Traditionally (and under most definitions), norvegese construction requires the upper to be turned outward (rather than the the usual inward) & sewn directly into the top-sole. Some makers use a welt between the upper & the topsole. Personally, I have no problem with this, but some will say it's not really norvegese if a welt is used.

When it comes to norvegese, the Japanese (who LOVE norvegese & big stitching/ welts) have tried to label the different types of norvegese, but their terminology is not universally accepted.



In this diagram, they differentiate between "norwegian" where the side stitch goes directly into the insole & "norvegese" where the side stitch does not. Most don't see a distinction in the 2, calling them both "norvegese".

Their "norwegian welted" still uses the side stitch directly into the insole, but just adds a welt to the outside. Most would say this is NOT true "norvegese" because the upper is not turned outward and stitched into the top-sole.

Here are 2 more examples of different makers' definition of "norvegese":

Bettanin & Venturi:



Piergiacomi:


I've got a diagram for Lattanzi somewhere, but can't find it right now. The point is, the upper is always turned outward and stitched into the topsole.

On your (and my) Testoni's (although I like your 2-tones better), the upper is NOT turned outward and sewn into the upper. I know the model is different, but the construction is the same.






I'm pretty sure there is a welt inside the upper, and the side stitch goes into that, then into the insole. I had tried to pull at my insole to see more clearly, but abandoned the idea, as I still like the shoes and wasn't ready to sacrifice them for the effort

So... by the Japanese diagram, these Testoni's are "Norwegian welted construction", just the welt is inside, rather than outside the upper (as in the diagram). Most makers would not call this "norvegese".

BUT, NONE of this really matters!!! The construction is still very nice & durable. They've still got that big stitch, and still make a very nice addition to this thread!

Originally Posted by aj_del

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Guess the maker ...

Thoughts on these, I am thinking of getting them

VERY nice split toe! I really like when a maker will use an exposed welt and add some kind of intricate design to it. Who is the mystery maker????

Santoni Limited Edition Norvegese (by the way, for all the Santoni posters, I LOVE 'EM!!!)












Santoni has so many methods for doing Norvegese. These are the most "traditional" version, stitch straight into the top-sole. NO side stitch into the insole. Here they used a double stitch to make 'em more rugged.

PS: THESE ARE GETTING NO LOVE in the B&S thread now!!!! Stop sleeping, size 12's!

Originally Posted by bengal-stripe

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http://cobblersweb.style.coocan.jp/h...ell03-top.html

definitely in a different league. noice.

Originally Posted by ThinkDerm

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win for g and g

boot is anthony delos.

Originally Posted by isshinryu101

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VERY nice split toe! I really like when a maker will use an exposed welt and add some kind of intricate design to it. Who is the mystery maker????

Originally Posted by mr monty

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These are nice and the color is gorgeous

Crockett & Jones

Originally Posted by aj_del

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Crockett & Jones

Stop messing around and buy them, friend!!!

^^ They are a little too chunky for me. What would I wear them with ? Havent figured that out. They dont seem to be the kind of shoes that would look OK with a suit

Some ugly shoes in this thread, there is.

Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH

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Some ugly shoes in this thread, there is.

You are certainly a credit to open-mindedness and tolerance, friend!

I LOVE how you so easily call others' much-loved possessions, "ugly"!
You don't fool around with, "not my taste or style", that would be polite. That would show some culture and class. I suppose that's just not your "style" to show respect.

Some would say that your negative attitude is probably a result of poor breeding, poor parenting, or both, but I will abstain from doing so. When it comes to showing just what kind of a man you are, you do a fine job all by yourself.

Be Well

Originally Posted by aj_del

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^^ They are a little too chunky for me. What would I wear them with ? Havent figured that out. They dont seem to be the kind of shoes that would look OK with a suit

In my opinion, those type of shoes (as well as all the ones posted in this thread) are more or less about "attitude", rather than trying to figure out exactly what kind of outfit to wear them with. Rather than trying to match them with clothes or outfits, may I suggest trying to match them with your own attitude/ style/ presence. If your personal attitude/ style/ presence is right (and strong enough), you can pull them off. Even with a suit.

Originally Posted by isshinryu101

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You are certainly a credit to open-mindedness and tolerance, friend!

I LOVE how you so easily call others' much-loved possessions, "ugly"!
You don't fool around with, "not my taste or style", that would be polite. That would show some culture and class. I suppose that's just not your "style" to show respect.

Some would say that your negative attitude is probably a result of poor breeding, poor parenting, or both, but I will abstain from doing so. When it comes to showing just what kind of a man you are, you do a fine job all by yourself.

Be Well

Wow, I love the irony.

Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH

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Wow, I love the irony.

Glad I could simultaneously praise, educate and amuse you, friend.

Lidfort Norvegese Captoe Bluchers:









I think Lidfort is VERY under-rated, as far as quality shoe construction goes. I'm guessing they are out of business now, as they have no website, and I cannot find any for sale (other than on SF, of course).