Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

NewYorkIslander · Mar 26, 2011

Picked up the first of my Lessers today, this one from Carlo Barbera...English firm, Italian cloth, American wearer, a truly global sartorial make-up:

Vest was not ready, but it is a 3 piece. Nice fabric to make great separates too. Interesting suit, nice sport jacket...I love it, and with a high of 42F Monday, I'll be wearing it.

Some pattern changes made for this:
Collar is much closer and really hugs my neck well and the pants have a higher rise and wider leg opening while remaining slim in the middle. Not quite a boot cut, but no taper at all. 2" cuffs. Originally thought three roll two, but decided on just a simple two button as it looked so crisp during the first fitting.

RogerC · Mar 27, 2011

That looks lovely. I'm quite interested in how the trouser shape works out, looking forward to pictures...

TheTukker · Mar 27, 2011

Originally Posted by RogerC

That looks lovely. I'm quite interested in how the trouser shape works out, looking forward to pictures...

+1

gdl203 · Mar 27, 2011

Are you sure this is a Barbera cloth? It looks like the typical 13oz Lesser herringbone. I thought the Barbera cloths carried by Lessers were only sport coat fabrics and not suiting like this one. I'm a little confused by this whole "English firm, Italian cloth" comment...

Eustace Tilley · Mar 27, 2011

Originally Posted by gdl203

I thought the Barbera cloths carried by Lessers were only sport coat fabrics and not suiting like this one.

That's what I thought as well.

courty · Mar 27, 2011

Many of the Barbera cloths were suitings as well. I recall a pale grey broken herringbone/barleycorn made into three piece that looked great.

gdl203 · Mar 27, 2011

No doubt that Carlo Barbera makes suiting cloth but were any carried by HL ? I've never seen them in HL books or whenever DL sent me swatches - the CB ones always seem to be sport coat cloths.

Despos · Mar 27, 2011

Have a Barbera for Lesser blue/grey flannel in stock that is not from the Barbera for Lesser sportcoat book so other cloths do exist. Both names are on the selvedge. Not sure where or how to find them or if another book exists. Bought this from Isles. Color and weight are perfect, bought all they had.

gdl203 · Mar 27, 2011

Cool - I didn't know that. So, what did HL source from CB and what did they make themselves? Any idea what the distinction is - type of weave, maybe material?

aportnoy · Mar 27, 2011

Originally Posted by Despos

Have a Barbera for Lesser blue/grey flannel in stock that is not from the Barbera for Lesser sportcoat book so other cloths do exist. Both names are on the selvedge. Not sure where or how to find them or if another book exists. Bought this from Isles. Color and weight are perfect, bought all they had.

I believe there's a length with my name on it for next fall!

Despos · Mar 27, 2011

Originally Posted by aportnoy

I believe there's a length with my name on it for next fall!

You are correct sir!

NewYorkIslander · Mar 27, 2011

This is on the bottom of my queue:

This is the only shot of it before making, no selvedge shot, but Frank usually cuts it so the selvedge is on the inside of a pocket, I'll find it and photo it. IIRC this was a sportcoating that I just had made into a three piece. Like I said, its a staid SC, but an "interesting suit". Its certainly an "Italian cloth" but the Lesser brothers had them make for them. Hence Italian cloth, English firm.

NewYorkIslander · Mar 27, 2011

Originally Posted by gdl203

Cool - I didn't know that. So, what did HL source from CB and what did they make themselves? Any idea what the distinction is - type of weave, maybe material?

HL does not make cloth.

TRINI · Mar 27, 2011

Originally Posted by NewYorkRanger

Frank usually cuts it so the selvedge is on the inside of a pocket

I thought that was solely a quirk of my tailor but i guess not.

courty · Mar 27, 2011

Originally Posted by NewYorkRanger

This is on the bottom of my queue:

This is the only shot of it before making, no selvedge shot, but Frank usually cuts it so the selvedge is on the inside of a pocket, I'll find it and photo it. IIRC this was a sportcoating that I just had made into a three piece. Like I said, its a staid SC, but an "interesting suit". Its certainly an "Italian cloth" but the Lesser brothers had them make for them. Hence Italian cloth, English firm.

This is from the same Lesser/Barbera book I am familiar with. Its a nice cloth but I have not seen anything like it in a while. Scabal used to sell something like it - a softer, fuzzier, version of sharkskin - but I think they discontinued it along with their other cloths I liked. Does anybody know if the Silver Gander is still available?

Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

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