Suit critique, please. (Bespoke Beijing)

Svenn · Jan 24, 2011

I'm impressed, especially at the price point. Good work.

However, one thing I would be concerned about is the comfort of the suits... I'm not sure the armholes are high enough and it looks like considerable strain on your upper sleeve in the last suit as you raise your arm. A lot of developing world tailors can make suits that look nice and creaseless, standing at attention, but are awfully uncomfortable when you move around.

Maccimus · Jan 24, 2011

Originally Posted by dbc

Not bad but button stance seems a bit high.
+1

LilacCords · Jan 24, 2011

Think the fit is great - Would perhaps replace the buttons on the grey 3pc as I think they look a little cheap, for the money though they've done a great job.

otheme · Jan 24, 2011

The buttons are all horn buttons. They showed me a button broken in half so I can confirm that. As to the patterns, yes this is the very first batch I ordered from them. The great thing about this shop is that the owner is the guy who took my measurement, CUT THE PATTERNS, and did the fittings. See my earlier post under the title "bespoke Beijing.". I also had a great chat with the owners, and now they are considering expanding their shop space and doing the pattern cutting in the store. I am also going to send them Alan Flusser's books so they are more in tune with our language. Let's hope that, like many dilligent Chinese manufacturers, the Chinese tailors will soon be producing first world bespoke suits at third world prices.

otheme · Jan 24, 2011

As to the armhole, it's on par with my comfortable Italian jackets. You can get them cut it as high as you want. I am very impressed with the cutting of the scye, because almost every other suit I have tried has a divot on the side of the shoulder. See the side shots.

maomao1980 · Jan 24, 2011

you look flat

Fishball · Jan 24, 2011

Originally Posted by maomao1980

you look flat
+1

For the #2, the right pocket pattern is totally mismatch, from the side the vent is "too open", the sleeves pattern matching is off also , but just a little bit. can be better.

academe · Jan 24, 2011

^

I noticed the same thing with the vents; they're kicking out. Lapels could roll a bit more softly, perhaps if they were re-pressed?

IronRock · Jan 24, 2011

For the price these look fantastic. There are some small issues (already mentioned) that can should be pretty easy to iron out with future commissions. The only thing I would say is that the jackets all look a little 1 dimensional - I think it's the lapels, perhaps a bit more padding and more of a roll would sort this out (maybe a little more drape to the chest area too, but I'm not 100% on that one(?)).

A great find and I hope they continue to service you well.

academe · Jan 24, 2011

Just out of curiosity; will they ever construct using full-canvas?

Annadale · Jan 24, 2011

Looks great! Big score on value!

maomao1980 · Jan 24, 2011

Originally Posted by IronRock

For the price these look fantastic. There are some small issues (already mentioned) that can should be pretty easy to iron out with future commissions. The only thing I would say is that the jackets all look a little 1 dimensional - I think it's the lapels, perhaps a bit more padding and more of a roll would sort this out (maybe a little more drape to the chest area too, but I'm not 100% on that one(?)).

A great find and I hope they continue to service you well.

its not a matter of any small details. Asian tailors, for the most part, can't cut a 3 dimensional coat to save their lives. They cut from a million measurements without much imagination and consideration for functional/stylistic features. Hence you end up with a coat that fits when you are standing still and make you look like you just walked out of a press.

deriku · Jan 24, 2011

The suits look great for that price point. I will most probably get them to make my next suit with my own fabric. I also hear they make fully canvassed CMT jobs for RMB2000 thereabouts.

Sanguis Mortuum · Jan 24, 2011

Originally Posted by Fishball

For the #2, the right pocket pattern is totally mismatch

Looks like it's been cut correctly but not attached straight

Maccimus · Jan 24, 2011

Originally Posted by maomao1980

its not a matter of any small details. Asian tailors, for the most part, can't cut a 3 dimensional coat to save their lives. They cut from a million measurements without much imagination and consideration for functional/stylistic features. Hence you end up with a coat that fits when you are standing still and make you look like you just walked out of a press.

That's why they are cheap. The work is reasonable. If you want a 3-D effect you should go to those English or Itlian tailors who charge you couple thousands of dollars.
Asian tailors care less about stylistic details because a) suit was invented by westerner, b) not too many customers (1 out of 10 maybe) ask.

Suit critique, please. (Bespoke Beijing)

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Definitely full canvas only

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