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Suit critique, please. (Bespoke Beijing)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by otheme, Jan 23, 2011.

  1. maomao1980

    maomao1980 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  2. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    you look flat
    +1

    For the #2, the right pocket pattern is totally mismatch, from the side the vent is "too open", the sleeves pattern matching is off also , but just a little bit. can be better.
     
  3. academe

    academe Senior member

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    ^

    I noticed the same thing with the vents; they're kicking out. Lapels could roll a bit more softly, perhaps if they were re-pressed?
     
  4. IronRock

    IronRock Senior member

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    For the price these look fantastic. There are some small issues (already mentioned) that can should be pretty easy to iron out with future commissions. The only thing I would say is that the jackets all look a little 1 dimensional - I think it's the lapels, perhaps a bit more padding and more of a roll would sort this out (maybe a little more drape to the chest area too, but I'm not 100% on that one(?)).

    A great find and I hope they continue to service you well.
     
  5. academe

    academe Senior member

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    Just out of curiosity; will they ever construct using full-canvas?
     
  6. Annadale

    Annadale Senior member

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    Looks great! Big score on value!
     
  7. maomao1980

    maomao1980 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    For the price these look fantastic. There are some small issues (already mentioned) that can should be pretty easy to iron out with future commissions. The only thing I would say is that the jackets all look a little 1 dimensional - I think it's the lapels, perhaps a bit more padding and more of a roll would sort this out (maybe a little more drape to the chest area too, but I'm not 100% on that one(?)).

    A great find and I hope they continue to service you well.


    its not a matter of any small details. Asian tailors, for the most part, can't cut a 3 dimensional coat to save their lives. They cut from a million measurements without much imagination and consideration for functional/stylistic features. Hence you end up with a coat that fits when you are standing still and make you look like you just walked out of a press.
     
  8. deriku

    deriku New Member

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    The suits look great for that price point. I will most probably get them to make my next suit with my own fabric. I also hear they make fully canvassed CMT jobs for RMB2000 thereabouts.
     
  9. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    For the #2, the right pocket pattern is totally mismatch

    Looks like it's been cut correctly but not attached straight [​IMG]
     
  10. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

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    its not a matter of any small details. Asian tailors, for the most part, can't cut a 3 dimensional coat to save their lives. They cut from a million measurements without much imagination and consideration for functional/stylistic features. Hence you end up with a coat that fits when you are standing still and make you look like you just walked out of a press.

    That's why they are cheap. The work is reasonable. If you want a 3-D effect you should go to those English or Itlian tailors who charge you couple thousands of dollars.
    Asian tailors care less about stylistic details because a) suit was invented by westerner, b) not too many customers (1 out of 10 maybe) ask.
     
  11. saiyar1

    saiyar1 Senior member

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    I contacted them and sent a few emails back and forth. Apparently they are willing to have me send in a suit and copy it. At the price they quoted me, I'm going to take the risk and see what they come up with. It'll probably be a while for the whole process to complete, but I'll post a thread with the original suit vs. the one they come up with.
     
  12. DerekS

    DerekS Senior member

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    The high button stance was my preference. 3-piece in 120's costs roughly $250. Odd jacket is about $100-$150 depending on the fabric. My total turn-around time is one week to accommodate all the fittings. The turn-around time between two fittings is usually 1-2 days. Right now it's close to Chinese New Year so all their workers have gone home. During regular season I think one-day turn around is quite do-able.

    what the fuck?!?! you gotta be shitting me with those prices. You have to take some cack too??

    If you didnt mean to add an extra zero on those prices, you did excellent. i really like the look of the suits...especially the 3 piece.
     
  13. otheme

    otheme Well-Known Member

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    This is very interesting. What makes a suit 3-dimensional? What will be the difference in the pattern?

    As far as I know, a real "drape suit" is quite rare -- not many people in the world can successfully cut it. Based on what I read Alan Flusser is the only guy in the US who can do a real drape.

    One thing I do know, is that most Asian tailors are not good at handling fabrics finer than 130's. The reason I believe is that they simply don't have enough exposure to handling high super-number fabrics. 150's behaves very differently from 130's. And because of the low cost they offer to the majority of their customers, they spend most of their time working with 100's-130's and haven't mastered the skills of handling 150's and up.

    its not a matter of any small details. Asian tailors, for the most part, can't cut a 3 dimensional coat to save their lives. They cut from a million measurements without much imagination and consideration for functional/stylistic features. Hence you end up with a coat that fits when you are standing still and make you look like you just walked out of a press.
     
  14. maomao1980

    maomao1980 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This is very interesting. What makes a suit 3-dimensional? What will be the difference in the pattern?

    As far as I know, a real "drape suit" is quite rare -- not many people in the world can successfully cut it. Based on what I read Alan Flusser is the only guy in the US who can do a real drape.

    One thing I do know, is that most Asian tailors are not good at handling fabrics finer than 130's. The reason I believe is that they simply don't have enough exposure to handling high super-number fabrics. 150's behaves very differently from 130's. And because of the low cost they offer to the majority of their customers, they spend most of their time working with 100's-130's and haven't mastered the skills of handling 150's and up.


    I'm not talking about drape cut....
     
  15. Achilles_

    Achilles_ Senior member

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    I contacted them and sent a few emails back and forth. Apparently they are willing to have me send in a suit and copy it. At the price they quoted me, I'm going to take the risk and see what they come up with. It'll probably be a while for the whole process to complete, but I'll post a thread with the original suit vs. the one they come up with.

    What's the cost of this? PM is fine [​IMG]
     
  16. pvrhye

    pvrhye Senior member

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    If you had told me the cheapo shopping plaza suit was Tom Ford, I'd have believed you.
     
  17. otheme

    otheme Well-Known Member

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    Achilles: A 3-piece with Chinese 130's runs about $250.

    pvrhye: sharp eyes -- my hat off to you!! that last peak lapel plaid suit is exactly modeled after a Tom Ford, whose pic was taken from the Rake. Actually I gave that photo to the shop and asked them to make a copy.
    [​IMG]
     

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