Suit critique, please. (Bespoke Beijing)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by otheme, Jan 23, 2011.

  1. Svenn

    Svenn Senior member

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    I'm impressed, especially at the price point. Good work.

    However, one thing I would be concerned about is the comfort of the suits... I'm not sure the armholes are high enough and it looks like considerable strain on your upper sleeve in the last suit as you raise your arm. A lot of developing world tailors can make suits that look nice and creaseless, standing at attention, but are awfully uncomfortable when you move around.
     


  2. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

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    Not bad but button stance seems a bit high.
    +1
     


  3. LilacCords

    LilacCords Senior member

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    Think the fit is great - Would perhaps replace the buttons on the grey 3pc as I think they look a little cheap, for the money though they've done a great job.
     


  4. otheme

    otheme Well-Known Member

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    The buttons are all horn buttons. They showed me a button broken in half so I can confirm that. As to the patterns, yes this is the very first batch I ordered from them. The great thing about this shop is that the owner is the guy who took my measurement, CUT THE PATTERNS, and did the fittings. See my earlier post under the title "bespoke Beijing.". I also had a great chat with the owners, and now they are considering expanding their shop space and doing the pattern cutting in the store. I am also going to send them Alan Flusser's books so they are more in tune with our language. Let's hope that, like many dilligent Chinese manufacturers, the Chinese tailors will soon be producing first world bespoke suits at third world prices.
     


  5. otheme

    otheme Well-Known Member

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    As to the armhole, it's on par with my comfortable Italian jackets. You can get them cut it as high as you want. I am very impressed with the cutting of the scye, because almost every other suit I have tried has a divot on the side of the shoulder. See the side shots.
     


  6. maomao1980

    maomao1980 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  7. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    you look flat
    +1

    For the #2, the right pocket pattern is totally mismatch, from the side the vent is "too open", the sleeves pattern matching is off also , but just a little bit. can be better.
     


  8. academe

    academe Senior member

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    ^

    I noticed the same thing with the vents; they're kicking out. Lapels could roll a bit more softly, perhaps if they were re-pressed?
     


  9. IronRock

    IronRock Senior member

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    For the price these look fantastic. There are some small issues (already mentioned) that can should be pretty easy to iron out with future commissions. The only thing I would say is that the jackets all look a little 1 dimensional - I think it's the lapels, perhaps a bit more padding and more of a roll would sort this out (maybe a little more drape to the chest area too, but I'm not 100% on that one(?)).

    A great find and I hope they continue to service you well.
     


  10. academe

    academe Senior member

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    Just out of curiosity; will they ever construct using full-canvas?
     


  11. Annadale

    Annadale Senior member

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    Looks great! Big score on value!
     


  12. maomao1980

    maomao1980 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    For the price these look fantastic. There are some small issues (already mentioned) that can should be pretty easy to iron out with future commissions. The only thing I would say is that the jackets all look a little 1 dimensional - I think it's the lapels, perhaps a bit more padding and more of a roll would sort this out (maybe a little more drape to the chest area too, but I'm not 100% on that one(?)).

    A great find and I hope they continue to service you well.


    its not a matter of any small details. Asian tailors, for the most part, can't cut a 3 dimensional coat to save their lives. They cut from a million measurements without much imagination and consideration for functional/stylistic features. Hence you end up with a coat that fits when you are standing still and make you look like you just walked out of a press.
     


  13. deriku

    deriku New Member

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    The suits look great for that price point. I will most probably get them to make my next suit with my own fabric. I also hear they make fully canvassed CMT jobs for RMB2000 thereabouts.
     


  14. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    For the #2, the right pocket pattern is totally mismatch

    Looks like it's been cut correctly but not attached straight [​IMG]
     


  15. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

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    its not a matter of any small details. Asian tailors, for the most part, can't cut a 3 dimensional coat to save their lives. They cut from a million measurements without much imagination and consideration for functional/stylistic features. Hence you end up with a coat that fits when you are standing still and make you look like you just walked out of a press.

    That's why they are cheap. The work is reasonable. If you want a 3-D effect you should go to those English or Itlian tailors who charge you couple thousands of dollars.
    Asian tailors care less about stylistic details because a) suit was invented by westerner, b) not too many customers (1 out of 10 maybe) ask.
     


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