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Suit critique, please. (Bespoke Beijing)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by otheme, Jan 23, 2011.

  1. otheme

    otheme Well-Known Member

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    Jan 17, 2011
    #1: dark blue, 3-piece, single breast, peak #2: plaid odd jacket #3: grey, 3-piece, single breast, notch #4: plaid, 3-piece, single breast, peak #1-3 were all half canvased, made by D & J in Beijing; #4 was fused, made by a stall in a shopping plaza, and altered by D & J. The sleeves all appear slightly longer but I believe that's due to the angle of the camera. These have gone through 2-4 fittings. Here are the pics of suit #1:
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  2. otheme

    otheme Well-Known Member

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  3. otheme

    otheme Well-Known Member

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  4. dbc

    dbc Senior member

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    Not bad but button stance seems a bit high.

    How much did they set you back and what was the turnaround time?
     
  5. musicguy

    musicguy Senior member

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    I agree they look quite good, but the button stance does seem a bit high for my liking.
     
  6. IBJanky

    IBJanky Senior member

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    Looks great.

    myke
     
  7. otheme

    otheme Well-Known Member

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    The high button stance was my preference. 3-piece in 120's costs roughly $250. Odd jacket is about $100-$150 depending on the fabric. My total turn-around time is one week to accommodate all the fittings. The turn-around time between two fittings is usually 1-2 days. Right now it's close to Chinese New Year so all their workers have gone home. During regular season I think one-day turn around is quite do-able.
     
  8. Last Year's Man

    Last Year's Man Senior member

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    the high button stance on the jacket makes you look shorter and stockier than whe you're not wearing it. I appreciate that its a matter of personal taste and that a high stance is 'on-trend' but to me bespoke (or MTM or whatever) clothing should accentuate your good features. You look like you're in good shape but the jacket doesn't accentuate that IMO.

    Other than that, to my inexpert eyes it looks pretty good. The waistcoat is especially well-fitting.

    I hope you like it, its certainly much better than the average man-on-the-street.

    EDIT: the 4th one looks a lot better from a button stance point of view. And for that price, very nice looking.
     
  9. otheme

    otheme Well-Known Member

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    Last Year's Man -- thank you for the advice. I think you're right. I have left two pieces of linen fabrics with D & J to make another two sets, and I'll tell them to lower the button stance.

    And about the waistcoat -- you're right again. The guy at D & J altered three times to make them fit perfectly. He knows that the bottom of the waistcoat has to be a bit looser than the top so it doesn't get trapped on the stomach when you raise your arms.

    the high button stance on the jacket makes you look shorter and stockier than whe you're not wearing it. I appreciate that its a matter of personal taste and that a high stance is 'on-trend' but to me bespoke (or MTM or whatever) clothing should accentuate your good features. You look like you're in good shape but the jacket doesn't accentuate that IMO.

    Other than that, to my inexpert eyes it looks pretty good. The waistcoat is especially well-fitting.

    I hope you like it, its certainly much better than the average man-on-the-street.
     
  10. saiyar1

    saiyar1 Senior member

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    Jan 10, 2010
    Does D & J bespoke also allow customization on the amount of shoulder padding? I'm looking to have the shoulders with very thin padding or ideally just wadding like the Polo Ralph Lauren blue label suits.

    I have the opportunity to go to Beijing this year or next and I'd love to have suits bespoken with that short of a turnaround. Do you mind posting or PM'ing me the contact info/address/phone number for D&J?

    Thanks
     
  11. dragon8

    dragon8 Senior member

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    I think they look good and I like the higher button stance. The vest looks a bit tight on you. Not a big fan of the peak lapel but to each their own.
     
  12. otheme

    otheme Well-Known Member

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    I have asked them to make two linen suits with "super-thin" shoulder pads (perhaps just a layer of canvas). I just got the fabric yesterday so the suits won't be ready until a couple of weeks after the Chinese New Year. I'll post pics later.

    I don't think they have a huge selection of padding materials, so you will have to be clear on no padding or just a couple of layers of fabric padding (not the usual synthetic cotton stuff).

    You can google "D & J Tailoring Beijing" and their web page with all the contact info would be the first on the list.

    Does D & J bespoke also allow customization on the amount of shoulder padding? I'm looking to have the shoulders with very thin padding or ideally just wadding like the Polo Ralph Lauren blue label suits.

    I have the opportunity to go to Beijing this year or next and I'd love to have suits bespoken with that short of a turnaround. Do you mind posting or PM'ing me the contact info/address/phone number for D&J?

    Thanks
     
  13. Motol12

    Motol12 Senior member

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    Feb 1, 2008
    The high button stance was my preference. 3-piece in 120's costs roughly $250. Odd jacket is about $100-$150 depending on the fabric. My total turn-around time is one week to accommodate all the fittings. The turn-around time between two fittings is usually 1-2 days. Right now it's close to Chinese New Year so all their workers have gone home. During regular season I think one-day turn around is quite do-able.

    For $250 this is fantastic, people spend eight times that amount (head-to-toe Gucci wearers, I'm talking 'bout you) and look far worse. Was this your first batch of orders with them, or have they had time to get the pattern right?
     
  14. NachoBroadway

    NachoBroadway Senior member

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    Apr 29, 2009
    Location:
    New York City
    I agree with everything already said. $250 is unreal, looks good, would prefer a lower button stance.


    For $250 this is fantastic, people spend eight times that amount (head-to-toe Gucci wearers, I'm talking 'bout you) and look far worse. Was this your first batch of orders with them, or have they had time to get the pattern right?
     
  15. sephlod

    sephlod Senior member

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    Aug 17, 2010
    Great fit. I can't add anything additional than lowering the button stance. Amazing deal as well. Kudos
     
  16. Svenn

    Svenn Senior member

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    I'm impressed, especially at the price point. Good work.

    However, one thing I would be concerned about is the comfort of the suits... I'm not sure the armholes are high enough and it looks like considerable strain on your upper sleeve in the last suit as you raise your arm. A lot of developing world tailors can make suits that look nice and creaseless, standing at attention, but are awfully uncomfortable when you move around.
     
  17. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

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    Shanghai
    Not bad but button stance seems a bit high.
    +1
     
  18. LilacCords

    LilacCords Senior member

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    Aug 10, 2010
    Location:
    Surrey England
    Think the fit is great - Would perhaps replace the buttons on the grey 3pc as I think they look a little cheap, for the money though they've done a great job.
     
  19. otheme

    otheme Well-Known Member

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    The buttons are all horn buttons. They showed me a button broken in half so I can confirm that. As to the patterns, yes this is the very first batch I ordered from them. The great thing about this shop is that the owner is the guy who took my measurement, CUT THE PATTERNS, and did the fittings. See my earlier post under the title "bespoke Beijing.". I also had a great chat with the owners, and now they are considering expanding their shop space and doing the pattern cutting in the store. I am also going to send them Alan Flusser's books so they are more in tune with our language. Let's hope that, like many dilligent Chinese manufacturers, the Chinese tailors will soon be producing first world bespoke suits at third world prices.
     
  20. otheme

    otheme Well-Known Member

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    Jan 17, 2011
    As to the armhole, it's on par with my comfortable Italian jackets. You can get them cut it as high as you want. I am very impressed with the cutting of the scye, because almost every other suit I have tried has a divot on the side of the shoulder. See the side shots.
     

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