Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

loreley · Dec 2, 2010

I hear the the term the "drop" of a shirt. What is this?

loreley · Dec 2, 2010

Originally Posted by Vecna

How do you tell if armholes are too low? Too high? Just right?

generally if it looks too low, its too low. there's no real correct answer. It has an effect on the slimness of your sleeves too. The higher the armhole the slimmer the arm can be from the shoulder down. Everything in proportion though.

Vecna · Dec 2, 2010

Originally Posted by loreley

generally if it looks too low, its too low. there's no real correct answer. It has an effect on the slimness of your sleeves too. The higher the armhole the slimmer the arm can be from the shoulder down. Everything in proportion though.
My question was essentially how does a shirt look when the armholes are too low (or too high). What are the identifying details. What do you look for when you say "That is a good fitting armhole!"

loreley · Dec 2, 2010

Originally Posted by Vecna

My question was essentially how does a shirt look when the armholes are too low (or too high). What are the identifying details. What do you look for when you say "That is a good fitting armhole!"
it depends on the rest of the shirt proportions. for example, if you have skinny arms, and you find that you can't slim down the arm from the wrist up to the shoulder with it looking "obviously V-shaped", then the armhole is probably too low. some of it is just personally preference though. some things on a shirt really shouldn't be up to judgement, like collar size and shoulder width. the other stuff is preference.

loreley · Dec 2, 2010

Originally Posted by Vecna

My question was essentially how does a shirt look when the armholes are too low (or too high). What are the identifying details. What do you look for when you say "That is a good fitting armhole!"

to answer your question in another way, you want the sleeve to fit uniformly more or less down the entire length of the arm, including your shoulders.

Morgan · Dec 2, 2010

Can anyone recommend a high-quality, good-value navy blazer? I have missed countless 38R Polo and Purple Label blazers on B&S over the years, and don't really want to pony up retail. What are my alternatives for a relatively slim-fitting navy wool blazer that's at least half-canvassed?

gort · Dec 2, 2010

Originally Posted by Morgan

Can anyone recommend a high-quality, good-value navy blazer? I have missed countless 38R Polo and Purple Label blazers on B&S over the years, and don't really want to pony up retail. What are my alternatives for a relatively slim-fitting navy wool blazer that's at least half-canvassed?
http://www.andersonlittle.com/ ? Seems to be mentioned somewhat regularly here and the owner is a member here as far as I know. Not sure if this falls into the high quality category you're thinking of.

mrtef3 · Dec 2, 2010

Originally Posted by acecow

What is the best inexpensive slipper for home?
These are made in ME, USA and are comparable to the ones sold by Orvis, but at a fraction of the cost:

http://townviewleather.com/

I have the deerskin-lined mocs and the quality and workmanship are great; I give them as gifts too - always well-received.

Vecna · Dec 2, 2010

Originally Posted by mrtef3

These are made in ME, USA and are comparable to the ones sold by Orvis, but at a fraction of the cost: http://townviewleather.com/ I have the deerskin-lined mocs and the quality and workmanship are great; I give them as gifts too - always well-received.
Those look pretty damn nice. I didn't see a pricetag, do you have an estimate? Edit: I should have clicked the link "6.5-13" Damn, I'm a 14. Should have expected that. Still a good gift idea though.

JamesX · Dec 2, 2010

Originally Posted by Vecna

My question was essentially how does a shirt look when the armholes are too low (or too high). What are the identifying details. What do you look for when you say "That is a good fitting armhole!"

If your shirt is stretched around your armpit or biceps then your armhole is too high, and thus your sleeve is too small.

If your shirt has too much flabby fabric around your armpits then your arm hole is too low.

It is about visual balance. Too high and you look goofy, too low and you look to have "wings".

Newstyle · Dec 2, 2010

I have a Harris Tweed SC I got from a thrift store for 5 dollars. The problem I have is it is a bit big. Its a 40R and I wear a 36-38. It fits great in the arms and the length is good but, the chest is a little bit big. What else should I look at, the shoulders? If I have it taken in at the sides will that make it better or should I think about getting it restructured?

loreley · Dec 2, 2010

Originally Posted by Newstyle

I have a Harris Tweed SC I got from a thrift store for 5 dollars. The problem I have is it is a bit big. Its a 40R and I wear a 36-38. It fits great in the arms and the length is good but, the chest is a little bit big. What else should I look at, the shoulders? If I have it taken in at the sides will that make it better or should I think about getting it restructured?

As long as the collar fits, and the shoulder seams hit you on your natural shoulder, you can pretty much tailor down anything you want, including the arm holes

cptjeff · Dec 2, 2010

Originally Posted by Newstyle

I have a Harris Tweed SC I got from a thrift store for 5 dollars. The problem I have is it is a bit big. Its a 40R and I wear a 36-38. It fits great in the arms and the length is good but, the chest is a little bit big. What else should I look at, the shoulders? If I have it taken in at the sides will that make it better or should I think about getting it restructured?
As the guy above said, the shoulders are key. If they don't fit, they don't fit. Fixing shoulders is a really tricky operation. Sell it on the B&S and keep looking. Don't worry, you'll come across one in your size soon enough. Harris Tweed lasts forever, so you tend to find a fair number floating around, even in size 36-38. BTW, you're probably not both. Learn your proper size. And since I suspect you're a 36 (most people think they wear a larger size then they do), stay away from the stores I hunt.

mrtef3 · Dec 2, 2010

Originally Posted by Vecna

Those look pretty damn nice. I didn't see a pricetag, do you have an estimate? Edit: I should have clicked the link "6.5-13" Damn, I'm a 14. Should have expected that. Still a good gift idea though.
Give them a call - they say they'll do custom widths, which makes me believe they'll do custom sizes as well. Hope it works out for you...I'm thinking about adding a pair of moosehide mocs for Christmas.

CruzAzul · Dec 2, 2010

What's a good source for button-up collared sweaters? I like this one from Lands' End, but it's baggy as hell. They don't make them in sizes smaller than a medium, and although I am a true M (39 chest, 15.5" neck, 33 waist) my tailor had to take no less than 2.5" off of each side to get it fitted. Be nice to have one that fits right in the first place.

Not looking for anything too high-end, just cotton or cotton/cashmere under $100 that could be purchased in a few different colours.

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