Question for the Crockett and Jones Experts

pinoy · Jan 17, 2010

Today I stopped by the only store that carries C&J in Los Angeles and tried on a pair of Audleys. The fit was fantastic though I felt like the 337 last was a bit too elongated for me. Any longer they would've looked like clown shoes.

Does anyone have suggestions for other C&J captoe shoes with no brogue detailing that have a sleek silhouette like the Audley? I definitely like that the Audley is a touch wider than most other lasts. Either Benchgrade or Handgrade is fine. If no C&J lasts comes to mind, recommendations from other brands with similar silhouettes are fine too

Thank you!

ramuman · Jan 17, 2010

I could suggest specific models, but this thread should be more useful: http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?p=2414285 ...more specifically, this:

Originally Posted by mg428

My below sequence, as revised, is based on the combination of my experience with certain lasts (318, 324, 325, 341, 337, 360, 240) and other people's posts in various threads. For the purposes of my sequence, I assume that same size (in terms of both length and width) is used for all shoes) and not the suede but the calfskin versions are taken into consideration. 238 < 324 < 317 < 348 < 240 < 330 < 337 < 341 < 236 < 318 < 325 < 360 Please anyone feel free to add any other last that you may have experience or create your own sequence. Of course everybody's feet is different but this can be a good reference. I will appreciate if my dear forumites comment on the placement of 236 last.

zalb916 · Jan 17, 2010

Originally Posted by pinoy

Today I stopped by the only store that carries C&J in Los Angeles and tried on a pair of Audleys.

FWIW, there are numerous stores in LA that carry C&J. T&A, Barneys, BB, and RL are a few off the top of my head. T&A has the most extensive collection and can likely help you order anything you need.

The Connaught is the benchgrade captoe. It is on the 236, which won't be as elongated as the 337. I think there is also the Bedford. Also benchgrade, but I don't know the last. It comes in a wide fitting too, which is not common for most C&J models.

pinoy · Jan 17, 2010

^ hi zbromer, actually Turnbull & Asser is currently the only store in LA that carries C&J. TA doesn't have much left as T&A is buying back their stock in order to start a freestanding C&J store in Beverly Hills.

As you know, BB and RL have shoes manufactured to their own specifications by C&J, and as a result don't have the sleekness of actual C&J designed shoes. Also, Barneys dropped the line.

Thanks for your recommendations on the Connaught. I'll look into it further before deciding on a shoe.

zalb916 · Jan 17, 2010

Originally Posted by pinoy

As you know, BB and RL have shoes manufactured to their own specifications by C&J, and as a result don't have the sleekness of actual C&J designed shoes.
Not sure exactly what you mean. BB and RL use C&J lasts. Their specifications only relate to the quality of construction, which is generally regarded to be somewhere between benchgrade and handgrade. Otherwise, they are essentially regular C&Js with different branding. Sleekness won't be impacted. RL has actually used the 337.

forex · Jan 17, 2010

Originally Posted by zbromer

Not sure exactly what you mean. BB and RL use C&J lasts. Their specifications only relate to the quality of construction, which is generally regarded to be somewhere between benchgrade and handgrade. Otherwise, they are essentially regular C&Js with different branding. Sleekness won't be impacted. RL has actually used the 337.

BB uses 240 last a lot,is that actually a last created for BB or a standard CJ last? I've never seen CJ shoes on 240 last myself.

Tarmac · Jan 17, 2010

I;ve seen 240s on CJ branded, I don't remember where

pinoy · Jan 18, 2010

Originally Posted by zbromer

Not sure exactly what you mean. BB and RL use C&J lasts. Their specifications only relate to the quality of construction, which is generally regarded to be somewhere between benchgrade and handgrade. Otherwise, they are essentially regular C&Js with different branding. Sleekness won't be impacted. RL has actually used the 337.
Ah– thanks for the clarification. SAs at both shops informed me incorrectly over the phone when I asked if they used C&J lasts–– that the lasts were created specifically for RL/BB. Thanks for the clarification–– gonna make my way over to a RL shop tomorrow

zalb916 · Jan 18, 2010

Originally Posted by forex

BB uses 240 last a lot,is that actually a last created for BB or a standard CJ last? I've never seen CJ shoes on 240 last myself.

Not sure exactly how it works. There are particular styles that C&J seems to make for various brands. like Alt Wien, Paul Smith, etc. Since they are not always stock c&j styles, it makes sense that these brands dictate the design. They are often on familiar lasts, though. Perhaps there are some exclusive lasts for stores like BB and others. I don't know the answer to that. However, I do know that these stores do sometimes use standard C&J lasts, because I own a number of such pairs.

Flimsychicken · Jan 18, 2010

CJ has at least one shoe (Grasmere) in their catalog that is on the 240 Last, though it is true that most (at least that I have seen) on the 240 Last are for BB.

There is a Handgrade CJ cap toe (no brogue) called the Whitehall on the 330. I havn't seen it in person, but judging from pictures, it's definitely not as sleek as the Belgrave on the 337. I assume the Hallam on the 348 is going to be too elongated for your liking as well (from my experience, the 348 is just about as elongated as the 337).

IIRC, there is a plain cap toe CJ for BB that is on the 240.

Flimsychicken · Jan 18, 2010

Originally Posted by pinoy

Thanks for the clarification-- gonna make my way over to a RL shop tomorrow

I'm not sure what the RL store has now, but at least the two Polo cap toes I have (Benton = Belgrave and Tellman = Audley) are on the 337.

Btw, have you looked at this BS Post?. Perhaps the 202 would be a good last for you? IMO, its sleek enough without being too elongated.

forex · Jan 18, 2010

Originally Posted by Flimsychicken

CJ has at least one shoe (Grasmere) in their catalog that is on the 240 Last, though it is true that most (at least that I have seen) on the 240 Last are for BB.

There is a Handgrade CJ cap toe (no brogue) called the Whitehall on the 330. I havn't seen it in person, but judging from pictures, it's definitely not as sleek as the Belgrave on the 337. I assume the Hallam on the 348 is going to be too elongated for your liking as well (from my experience, the 348 is just about as elongated as the 337).

IIRC, there is a plain cap toe CJ for BB that is on the 240.

Yes,BB has a perforated cap toe on 240 last but I hate 240 as it never works for me.

Flimsychicken · Jan 18, 2010

Originally Posted by forex

Yes,BB has a perforated cap toe on 240 last but I hate 240 as it never works for me.
Yeah, I know a lot people dislike the 240. I don't mind it, though it's definitely not my favorite Last (it's not even my favorite CJ last that BB uses). I'm not sure if it has the shape that the OP is looking for. That is, it may be too far on the other side of the scale (i.e., it will never be called a "sleek" Last).

forex · Jan 18, 2010

Originally Posted by Flimsychicken

Yeah, I know a lot people dislike the 240. I don't mind it, though it's definitely not my favorite Last (it's not even my favorite CJ last that BB uses).

I'm not sure if it has the shape that the OP is looking for. That is, it may be too far on the other side of the scale (i.e., it will never be called a "sleek" Last).

It's definitely not a sleek last,my issue with 240 is that I fall in between 10.5 and 11. It is frustrating as most of Peals are on 240. The good thing is that you can get them on deep discounts.

pinoy · Jan 18, 2010

thanks for the help, forex and flimsychicken. unfortunately, those EGs are out of my price range at the moment–– i'm trying to keep these around (hopefully under) $450 as those are approx the price range of handgrade C&Js from plal.com. also, i tried on the 240 last from BB today, and it wasn't as sleek of a shoe as i was hoping for.

it seems like the connaught is currently my best shot at the moment.. but there aren't any stores near me where i'm able to try it on. most likely i'll scour the B&S section before deciding whether or not to plunk down money for the connaught from plal.

Question for the Crockett and Jones Experts

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