The Definitive Guide to Slim Fit Shirts

kulata · Jan 21, 2009

Originally Posted by mkarim

I have tried twill and oxford. Both are see-through on me (although not on some people). I will try herringbone sometime...

The Thomas Pink slim fit white twill is definitely not see through but I would hate to recommend an overpriced shirt to anybody

mkarim · Jan 21, 2009

Originally Posted by kulata

The Thomas Pink slim fit white twill is definitely not see through but I would hate to recommend an overpriced shirt to anybody

Yes, I looked at those too. They do look good but I think TM Lewin provides much better value.

I have always had problems finding a white shirt that's not see-through, which is why I don't have any whites...

Icarium · Jan 21, 2009

I've been looking around, and this is apparently a common problem, even with more expensive shirts. People recommend wearing a tight-fitting crew-neck t-shirt rather than a v-neck. The sleeves will be hidden by your jacket. If you're not wearing a jacket... well... don't wear white I guess

Edit: I wanted to also add that I am a little worried about neck shrinkage in my Windsors... If subsequent washings cause them to dip below 15", I will be choking myself. 15" is snug on me - any smaller would be unwearable with a tie. 15.5" is a little loose, but I may try one of those as well to see how it fits.

visionology · Jan 21, 2009

You can move the button on the collar very easily just by detaching it and moving it out a little with a cross stitch. I've done this at home with a couple of my older shirts that were tight in the neck. This added about .25" or so but differs based on how much room you have to move it out.

Icarium · Jan 21, 2009

I should add... if you guys are in the market for shirts from England, now is the time! http://www.x-rates.com/d/GBP/USD/graph120.html Over the last week or two, the dollar is soaring vs the GBP.

Seph · Jan 21, 2009

Originally Posted by mkarim

I am also happy with my TM Lewins - fabric is definitely better than many shirts priced at twice or three times their price in the US and collars are stiff. They look like REAL shirts, not flimsy ones put together.

Once you have them taken in by a good tailor, you'll love them even more!

That said, I have not liked any of their white shirts though. They have been all see-through.
In our experience, if we're talking about a simple weave, the higher the thread count, the thinner the material and thus the more transparent. Broadcloth is generally flatter and smoother than oxford cloth or pinpoint, and thus more transparent. We've gone through some thicker pima-cottons that were very opaque, but with the tradeoff that they are, well, thicker and heavier, which some people associate with lower quality. It's common for high thread count twill weaves (notice a diagonal texture) to be slightly heavier and more opaque as well.

I usually only wear an undershirt if I'm wearing a jacket and tie. If not, then I skip the undershirt... the transparency will only be noticeable if you're wearing an undershirt.

Seph · Jan 21, 2009

Originally Posted by Icarium

Update on washed TM Lewin Windsor Slim Fit for those wondering about shrinkage... They shrunk about 2% on first washing - pit-to-pit changed to about 21", and the neck shrunk to approximately 15" from 15.25".
2% shrinkage is pretty typical... anyone who says their shirts don't shrink is lying. Most shirts will actually shrink more than this (2.5-3.5%). I've noticed measuring several off the rack shirts that a "15" will typically measure 15.5-16 inches in the collar right off the shelf... Even if you take your shirt to the dry cleaner (unless you strictly insist) she is going to launder it in water, put it through the spin cycle, and then dry/iron it with a press. Basically, if you wear and clean your shirts, you will have shrinkage.

jpo · Jan 22, 2009

Originally Posted by jpo

anyone on this forum familiar with Proper Cloth custom shirts?

I need a slim fitting shirt, which they have as an option, along with you measurements, of course. For me, I not only have a slim fit need, but a 37 sleeve in a 16 neck. Very tough to find. I have some in my closet, but they are freaking huge in the torso. I could parasail in them

http://www.propercloth.com/
Ok, I'm a newbie, and asked about Proper Cloth shirts in the middle of this forum. Not sure how I missed the bit "Proper" avatar of Seph's, denoting him as the Proper Cloth guy.

I have been considering custom, as the TM Lewins everyone seems to like is not available in slim 16 37. Since i need Slim and an unusual size, I was wondering if custom was the better, or only, route to go?

atct86 · Jan 22, 2009

Originally Posted by gamelan

Charles Tyrwhitt slim fits. Great fit in the shoulder and chest. The waist can be taken in a bit but still much better than every other mass market shirt maker I've tried. And I'm not slim by any stretch of the imagination (5'10", 185lbs, 39 chest, 36 waist).

-Jeff

I agree. I am 5'11" and 190. I find the CT slim fit pretty good except maybe 1-2" short. Also the back of the shoulders seem a little bulky. Maybe the pleats?

I also have this weird issue where when I sit, the front opens up a little. Maybe the button spacing is weird?

mkarim · Jan 22, 2009

Originally Posted by jpo

Ok, I'm a newbie, and asked about Proper Cloth shirts in the middle of this forum. Not sure how I missed the bit "Proper" avatar of Seph's, denoting him as the Proper Cloth guy.

I have been considering custom, as the TM Lewins everyone seems to like is not available in slim 16 37. Since i need Slim and an unusual size, I was wondering if custom was the better, or only, route to go?

Buy from TM Lewin, spend a few dollars having them tailored and you will look great. Trust me, that's what I do and get compliments on the fit.

atct86 · Jan 22, 2009

Originally Posted by mkarim

I just bought this shirt from TM Lewin for $25:

http://www.tmlewin.co.uk/product.aspx/!15978

I saw an identical one (the blue stripes were just a tad brighter) at Boss retailing for $125. I held them side-by-side and compared the fabrics. The TM Lewin fabric seemed to be sturdier. Its collar was also more stiff (indicating it will probably hold up after washing better than the Boss shirt).

As I had said earlier, the TM Lewin shirt fitted a little fuller, so I had it tailored and it now fits about the same as that overpriced Boss shirt did - all for less than $50, including ths shirt and tailoring.

I am not going into a Boss store again...

How do the MT lewin Shirts compare to brooks brothers fit?

mkarim · Jan 22, 2009

Originally Posted by atct86

How do the MT lewin Shirts compare to brooks brothers fit?

I have not tried BB shirts. The TM Lewin shirt was a little loose on me (I am 5' 7", 140 lbs, 36S chest, 30" waist) but looks great after I had them taken in at the sides.

The key is to get a shirt that fits you in the collar and shoulders and then have a tailor alter other areas. It's very difficult to get an OTR shirt that will fit you well without any alteration.

sjg22 · Jan 22, 2009

T.M. Lewin will allow for small alterations with sleeve lengths if you pay a little extra. Check to see if you can do a 37 with a 16 neck.

mkarim · Jan 22, 2009

Originally Posted by sjg22

T.M. Lewin will allow for small alterations with sleeve lengths if you pay a little extra. Check to see if you can do a 37 with a 16 neck.

That's right, but if their sizing happens to be off, you would be paying for nothing and would still have to pay a tailor to do it right.

I think they charge more than a tailor would, so it's better to just have a tailor do it.

lostfourwords · Jan 23, 2009

Two questions:

1) Has the sizing/dimensions of American shirts changed in the last couple of years? Everywhere I look now, a small tends to be running at a 38" chest...

2)...Which leads me to my real question: who is making true small- or extra small- (i.e., >36") sized shirts these days? It's become nearly impossible to find button-downs that fit.

The Definitive Guide to Slim Fit Shirts

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