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The Definitive Guide to Slim Fit Shirts

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by imageWIS, May 1, 2007.

  1. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    New York City / Buenos Aires
    Since on SF, one of our acknowledged imperatives is to own and wear clothing that fits, I would like members to post brands which make slim fit shirts and to give their description and impressions of the shirts. The priority is regarding fit and slimness, not regarding quality and workmanship, in this thread, while appreciated, they second.

    This particular thread came about over a discussion I was having with my tailor the other day as she pinned an old T&A-made RLPL shirt I own that fell out of rotation. We were discussing, that even in Italy nowadays the shirts are too bulbous for the average Italian! They fit him like tents, and even though, on average he is taller than he was say, 50 years ago, but the growth has hardly warranted the shirts to be manufactured for people who are 6 feet tall.

    I want to facilitate the search of one of the hardest items to not only fit into, but to find as well, for the shirting search is a constant topic on SF. It is part of the primary triumvirate on SF: shirts, shoes, and suits (um, ok, pants and jackets...).

    Jon.
     
  2. rogerm

    rogerm Senior member

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    The shirts I'm always searching for are Polo "Custom Fit" shirts. For me, they fit better than some MTM shirts. However they are very hard to come by. I can never find them at the Polo store and the 1-2 shirts they have on Polo.com are usually atrocious. There are plenty of tent-like "classic fit" shirts available.
     
  3. marc237

    marc237 Senior member

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    Peter Elliot used a brand called Sanfort, an Italian maker, that produces slim fit shirts. On sale, they are quite the steal.
     
  4. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    One trick I read about elsewhere in the forum is to buy 1 size down, thus if you are a small, you need to buy an extra small. The problem is finding extra smalls. I know GAP makes extra smalls, but the neck is usually 13-13.5 in size, so you can wear the shirt, but you will be unable to button the collar up. The shirt will be strictly an open-collar shirt.

    Jon.
     
  5. j

    j Senior member Admin

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    The other problem with that is that most of us slim people don't have super slim shoulders, so a smaller size shirt will just not fit in the shoulders.

    It would definitely be nice to condense all the slim fit shirt threads together somehow.
     
  6. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    Yes, but luckily (or not as the overall case may be) for us, the proper placement of the shoulder has moved from its original and correct starting position of almost the end of the clavicle to dropping past the clavicle. So, if you purchase a slim fit shirt, the shirt should fit your shoulders the correct way if the shirt has been cut using the modern style. As long as the sleeves are long enough, you are good to go.

    Jon.
     
  7. Get Smart

    Get Smart Senior member

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    Polo custom fit is one of the better conservative brands that I think are actually "slimfit", altho I still have to size down a half in the neck for the fit I want in the body. But not bad at all. Most "slimfit/tailored fit/etc" shirts I find arent slim at all around the waist. (Jcrew, Brooks, Banana etc)

    All the best fitting slimfit shirts I own or tried on are from labels 96% of this forum wouldnt be interested in, but they fit f'ing great from shoulder to waist.

    -Band of Outsiders
    -Thom Browne
    -Paul Smith (PS and mainline)
    -Duncan Quinn
    -agnes b 'corps d'etroit' line
     
  8. Fritz

    Fritz Senior member

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    Germany
    I have a Baldessarini "shaped fit" shirt that is indeed true to its name. It fits me similar to a Polo custom fit, just with better cloth/construction.
     
  9. tbone226

    tbone226 Senior member

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    NYC
    I find that the Dolce & Gabanna (mainline) shirts that are darted have a trim fit. Some of the Gucci offerings are slim as well...
     
  10. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    I see Polo Custom Fit regularly at Filene's Basement.
     
  11. csgrad

    csgrad Senior member

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    My measurements:
    41 inch chest
    28 inch waist

    Shirts that fit well:
    Pre-Darted Prada mainline sz 15
    Pre-Darted Gucci mainline sz 15
    Pre-Darted Paul Smith mainline sz M
    Pre-Darted Duncan Quinn sz 14.5
    Hickey sz S after darts

    My favorite fit is probably the Gucci and Hickey. Hickey doesn't fit my neck that well though, while Gucci fits my neck better. Both give a incredible \\ / shape though, well the others give a more of a | | shape.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. PITAronin

    PITAronin Senior member

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    Though I realize that bringing up the subject of Carlo Franco shirts is likely to be touchy, it was certainly my experience that the first generation shirts was definitely what I call slim. Not sure what the status of their shirtmaking operation is these days, however.
     
  13. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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  14. hermes

    hermes Senior member

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    +1 for baldessarini
     
  15. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    Though I realize that bringing up the subject of Carlo Franco shirts is likely to be touchy, it was certainly my experience that the first generation shirts was definitely what I call slim. Not sure what the status of their shirtmaking operation is these days, however.

    Touchy? That's an understatement.

    Jon.
     
  16. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    Udeshi Barba
    Finamore, but their shoulders are narrow too
     
  17. Drinkwaters

    Drinkwaters Senior member

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    We prefer to sell our customers "trim fit" shirts that define the body rather than eclipse what we try so hard to define, our bodies. Even if you are not in shape a trim fit shirt makes you feel so much better about the way you look.
    Our offering is; Aster, made in Italy which emulates a Borrelli or Barba but does not have the hand made characteristics. This is fabulous shirt company that few carry in the US. We have just recieved the final prototype from Hilditch and Key which I have been working on with them. It is a new shirt design in a slim fit which I tried on last night and was quite pleased. We will stock the shirt as part our Fall/ Winter collections. Lastly, we stock Purple Noon which is a division of CIT. Very trim and outstanding fabrics.

    Best Regards,

    Gary

    "VOTE" www.wbztv.com/alist
     
  18. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Finamore, but their shoulders are narrow too

    True. Finamore too

    However, I don't consider any of my Borrelli shirts as slim fitting
     
  19. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    Location:
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    We prefer to sell our customers "trim fit" shirts that define the body rather than eclipse what we try so hard to define, our bodies. Even if you are not in shape a trim fit shirt makes you feel so much better about the way you look.
    Our offering is; Aster, made in Italy which emulates a Borrelli or Barba but does not have the hand made characteristics. This is fabulous shirt company that few carry in the US. We have just recieved the final prototype from Hilditch and Key which I have been working on with them. It is a new shirt design in a slim fit which I tried on last night and was quite pleased. We will stock the shirt as part our Fall/ Winter collections. Lastly, we stock Purple Noon which is a division of CIT. Very trim and outstanding fabrics.

    Best Regards,

    Gary

    "VOTE" www.wbztv.com/alist


    Outstanding! I knew I should have swung by the store when I went up to Boston for Thanksgiving. How much are the Aster shirts? How much will you retail the H&K shirts for? Are they going to be constructed just like normal H&K shirts? I.e. matched patterns, etc...

    Jon.
     
  20. Drinkwaters

    Drinkwaters Senior member

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    Our Aster shirts retail from $195.00 to $245.00 and we have a special order program with a minimum 3 shirt order at $285.00. I believe the construction to be the same in the H&K shirts with matching patterns. I am very excited about them and the prices will be less than Aster.

    Best Regards,

    Gary
     

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