The sport coat

Originally Posted by Manton

Click to expand...

Everyone will have that book, but it is very expensive. The cloth alone will cost you at least $200 a yard.

how many yards needed for jacket? 4-5 ?

W.W. Chan made the jacket in the picture above. Maybe you could ask Patrick from Chan to go without shaving for a few days and unbutton his shirt down to there to simulate part of the Tom Ford experience?

Originally Posted by AvariceBespoke

Click to expand...

how many yards needed for jacket? 4-5 ?

No, more like 2.5.

$200 is probably on the low side, I really don't know what it costs, but I know what other Harrison's stuff that is not cashmere costs, and it is expensive, so be prepared to pay a lot for this.

Originally Posted by DandySF

Click to expand...

W.W. Chan made the jacket in the picture above. Maybe you could ask Patrick from Chan to go without shaving for a few days and unbutton his shirt down to there to simulate part of the Tom Ford experience?

Originally Posted by iammatt

Click to expand...

Are you talking pants, or jackets? For jackets, I wear every color under the sun, and I don't buy into the idea that tweed is too country, or too old fashioned, and I am not one of these guys who wears nipple pants and braces with his swim trunks. For pants, it is really gray, and no blue pants work.
This isnt a baby and bath water sort of thing, it's a matter of degree, how it's made and how it's worn. Thus, tweeds in traditional colors/patterns aren't too old fashioned, they're simply more old fashioned and country. Tweed fabrics are beautiful but they dont really do much for the climate or lifestyle many of us are subject too. Personally, I think tweed sucks to wear as jacket and pants, far too rough. From a visual or tactile sense, I appreciate them on others.

Originally Posted by Manton

Click to expand...

No, more like 2.5.

$200 is probably on the low side, I really don't know what it costs, but I know what other Harrison's stuff that is not cashmere costs, and it is expensive, so be prepared to pay a lot for this.

gotcha - i'll take a look at all of these things.

first step is finding a tailor that I like to work with as much as my shirtmaker. It seems in the mid-range bespoke LS gets the best reviews. If I want to get 4-5 jackets, it will cost a fortune from Len, RR, WF, and the others in that category.

If you're looking for more "modern" tweeds, Dormueil's "Scottie" book is nice. Smoother hand and somewhat more citified. I'm not sure you'd get as much use out of the Millionaire book as some here would think. IIRC it was mostly suitings and retail is a good deal more than $200/yd. (unless there's some at tip-top)

LOL, when Matt and I were in The City last week in our tweeds, three different people came up to us and said "What you are wearing is neither up-to-date nor suited to modern, city living. Even though it is in the 40s today, and those coats are warm, you should be embarassed to be dressed so inappropriately."

I was embarassed. I don't think Matt cared.

However, the weekend before I wore my coat in Napa, and I got many compliments from farmers and vintners who said that I was dressed appropriately for the country but they expressed the hope that I had some Supers in my suitcase for the return to The City.

Originally Posted by Manton

Click to expand...

...
However, the weekend before I wore my coat in Napa, and I got many compliments from farmers and vintners who said that I was dressed appropriately for the country but they expressed the hope that I had some Supers in my suitcase for the return to The City.

And some black shoes!

Q. is this a City jacket or a Country jacket? it's of a very popular style. i would say country because the colors are not camouflage for an urban environment. but the style is just as popular in the city. and it appears to declare an allegiance, much like the traditional blazer with school crest, to an urban institution.

I forgot to mention that A Y was there in jeans, a sweater and a peacoat, and he was uniformly praised as being correctly dressed for The City and for 2008.

Seriously, I admire the consistency of FNB's logic and it reliance on traditional terms. But this city / country stuff is hopelessly outdated. The trend toward darker pants, sport coats, and outerwear has little to do with the taste of elite gentlemen and their adaptation of country cloth to urban life. Black and dark navy are increasingly popular with middle-aged men because these men are (a) more vain and more concerned with their bodily appearance than previous generations of men. (b) The standards of male beauty have been revised into the teenage years. Hairy-chested men such as Lyle Waggoner were icons of male health and virility as recently as 30 years ago. Today men compare their bodies to those of bare-chested college boys. This is especially tough since (c) middle-aged men are much more overweight, on average, than they were 30 years ago. Black and dark navy come into desire because if men have learned one thing from women, it's that (d) black and dark navy are slimming. Vanity + youthful ideal + prevalence of obesity + perception that dark is slimming = growing popularity of very dark clothing. Even the NFL teams have trended away from kelly green and toward black in the last ten years. Middle-aged football fans prefer the solid black jerseys and jackets to the same in brighter colors.

Originally Posted by AvariceBespoke

Click to expand...

gotcha - i'll take a look at all of these things.

first step is finding a tailor that I like to work with as much as my shirtmaker. It seems in the mid-range bespoke LS gets the best reviews. If I want to get 4-5 jackets, it will cost a fortune from Len, RR, WF, and the others in that category.

I don't see how you will be happy with what LS will produce for you, given what you mentioned yuo are looking for, cut-wise.

Herringbone pattern is nice for a heavy wool jacket in light grey or tan. As others have said, i think the more citified the jacket the more it looks like an odd man out. I like this jacket alot..


I like this Borrelli tweed too..

Originally Posted by Manton

Click to expand...

Nothing more modern than hacking pockets canted at a 60 degree angle.

Also narrow lapels, a one button front, and make the coat an inch too short.
You just described my last TaT commission in a grey herringbone tweed. I have clearly brought dishonor to my family.