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The sport coat

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by AvariceBespoke, Dec 29, 2008.

  1. FidelCashflow

    FidelCashflow Senior member

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    Herringbone pattern is nice for a heavy wool jacket in light grey or tan. As others have said, i think the more citified the jacket the more it looks like an odd man out. I like this jacket alot.. [​IMG] I like this Borrelli tweed too.. [​IMG]
    Aren't the notches on the lapel ridiculously high? Anymore and it would be on the back of the jacket.
    [​IMG]
    All these jackets look awesome. I want more pics of this gray herringbone blazer from straight ahead. I want to get one MTM like that. I thought slant pockets would look weird, and I should opt for ticket pockets, but that's making me think otherwise.
     
  2. Luddite

    Luddite Senior member

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    ^ Navy is not out. Navy cannot go out. It is a classic color. Just be sure the trousers you buy are good quality so as not to channel the Wackenhut Couture look and you will be fine.

    Navy trousers do not require black shoes.


    I meant "out" as in "ruled out", not "out of style". Dewey was advising against navy trousers; I disagree, but wanted to explore the limits of his rule and his reasons.
     
  3. mrbowtie

    mrbowtie Well-Known Member

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    these are pretty nice and I think within what I was thinking

    [​IMG]


    Love the coat on the left.
     
  4. mrbowtie

    mrbowtie Well-Known Member

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    those look like navy pants to me, and he looks pretty sharp.

    Those, my friend, are called (blue) jeans.
     
  5. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Senior member

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    Aren't the notches on the lapel ridiculously high? Anymore and it would be on the back of the jacket.

    it seems that attolini and i suppose borelli as well do this (high notches on lapels) as a machine made lapel can not have the notch this high? so it is another way to show you have hand sewning? just like people leave the first button on sleeve undone
     
  6. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Senior member

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    Those, my friend, are called (blue) jeans.

    do you wear blue wool trousers mr. bowtie?
     
  7. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    ^ Navy is not out. Navy cannot go out. It is a classic color. Just be sure the trousers you buy are good quality so as not to channel the Wackenhut Couture look and you will be fine. Navy trousers do not require black shoes. In fact, to keep the guys who think security guard with navy trousers, it is probably best to stay away from black shoes with navy. Period. Just be sure you don't tend towards a band-aid color, or that would be just wrong.
    What would your response be if someone told you that navy trousers were wrong for your outfit?
     
  8. Dewey

    Dewey Senior member

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    So, if navy is out, what am I supposed to wear with a grey sportcoat? Is it, to you, unacceptable to wear light blue shirts with navy pants, but acceptable to pair grey jackets with different grey trousers?
    I can answer for me -- others can answer for themselves. With a gray sportcoat, I wear tan or brown. This is a wide range of colors really, since tan can be yellow to orange and maybe even sometimes greenish. I don't think it's unacceptable to wear light blue shirts with navy pants, but I would feel like Little Boy Blue if I wore a blue shirt, blue pants, and a navy blazer or a blue/gray plaid or a navy plaid sport coat. Half or more of my sport coats are navy or blue or blue/gray. And a lot of my ties are mainly blue. So dark navy trousers don't appeal to me. And I don't like dark navy trousers with most brown shoes. Like gnatty, I don't like them much with black shoes either. This is a personal preference. You may think that dark navy trousers looks great with all brown shoes, and you may want to sport this look every day of the week. Again, personal preference. Really the question is not about what is acceptable but what is practical: how large do you want your wardrobe to be? I could find use for navy trousers, but not every week. I can think of about 20 other colors and shades (of brown, of gray, of olive) that I'd want before navy. If someone wants to build their wardrobe around dark navy pants, more power to them. I'll still wonder if they fantasize that such pants are "slimming," because I'm a jerk I guess.
     
  9. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

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    Gadzooks, I really am "Little Boy Blue" today. I am wearing a jacket from the self-same blue Porter & Harding gun-club check fabric that DandySF posted earlier. Mine was (surprise!) also tailored by Chan. I am wearing it in conjunction with a blue shirt, a sort of dark marroon Canali tie with oblong blue dots, and--horror of horrors!--navy slacks. A marroon pocket square and A-E Fairfaxes in merlot complete the ensemble.

    This antipathy to navy worsted odd trousers is one thing I have never been able to comprehend. I gather this rule antedates the rise of iGentry, but somehow I missed out on it. Perhaps I am channeling my inner Cruiser here!
     
  10. marc237

    marc237 Senior member

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    I also am mystified by the displeasure with navy trousers. Today, I am wearing:

    Navy Zanella wool and cashmere trousers
    An older Sulka paler blue FC shirt
    BB PoW Camel Hair sports coats (the PoW has a faint blue over window pane
    Multi-colored silk paisley pocket square
    Blue OTC gold toe socks
    Brown suede moras

    I had firstput on charcoal trousers and substituted the navy at the last moment because I discovered a small pull in the charcoal and did not have time to reach for any but the navy. The outfit is nicely pulled together
     
  11. gnatty8

    gnatty8 Senior member

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    What would your response be if someone told you that navy trousers were wrong for your outfit?

    I am not sure I would understand their point as to how navy trousers could be "wrong" with this outfit, so I would probably politely agree that yes, they are all wrong, and be on my merry way..

    Wrong is in the eye of the beholder. I am not aware of rule books in style, and if there are, I would consciously avoid them.
     
  12. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What would your response be if someone told you that navy trousers were wrong for your outfit?
    I'd think they were crazy, and way too interested in what I was wearing.
     
  13. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    I'd think they were crazy, and way too interested in what I was wearing.
    I am very glad you said this.
     
  14. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    I am not sure I would understand their point as to how navy trousers could be "wrong" with this outfit, so I would probably politely agree that yes, they are all wrong, and be on my merry way.. Wrong is in the eye of the beholder. I am not aware of rule books in style, and if there are, I would consciously avoid them.
    I might be tempted to say something like "Well I can change my pants...how you gonna change your crap manners?
     
  15. gnatty8

    gnatty8 Senior member

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    I might be tempted to say something like "Well I can change my pants...how you gonna change your crap manners?

    lol

    Both responses were probably closer to what I would likely say, but I am trying desperately to win our friend's iGent of the Year competition, so manners manners..
     
  16. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    Gadzooks, I really am "Little Boy Blue" today. I am wearing a jacket from the self-same blue Porter & Harding gun-club check fabric that DandySF posted earlier. Mine was (surprise!) also tailored by Chan. I am wearing it in conjunction with a blue shirt, a sort of dark marroon Canali tie with oblong blue dots, and--horror of horrors!--navy slacks. A marroon pocket square and A-E Fairfaxes in merlot complete the ensemble. This antipathy to navy worsted odd trousers is one thing I have never been able to comprehend. I gather this rule antedates the rise of iGentry, but somehow I missed out on it. Perhaps I am channeling my inner Cruiser here!
    It does predate the iGent but it was a rule for a different time which like the black suit rule is quickly evaporating with a regard for darker colors. Someone was barking above about darker colors because of American middle age concern with obesity but our adolescents are obese too. For sports uniforms, theyve become darker but are not only favorites of out of shape fans the "fit" players also ask for darker uniforms; which in football recently includes matching dark pants for the first time in the NFL. The entire country has become more extreme, somber and more interested in imbuing mystery and power within the self. Dark colors Accomplish this.
     
  17. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    lol Both responses were probably closer to what I would likely say, but I am trying desperately to win our friend's iGent of the Year competition, so manners manners..
    Yeah, well I have no shot at winning that[​IMG] There are a lot of extremes on here. Someone asks what makes a jacket more modern and immediately this means you have to throw out brown tweeds. that isn't the case but whether you own a closet full of them or not, they aren't modern. You can make a burnt siena harris tweed more modern with the styling and details but that will only get you so far. But if someone wants a more modern jacket and someone else tells him there's no such thing and he should just wear a harris tweed jacket and flannels because that's the only real jacket, then maybe it's less about clothing and more about fear, control and a reactionary vision than clothes. Oh, and it doesnt have to be dark to be modern. I have a piece of light grey duppioni silk I want to make into a sports jacket. I alos have a piece of fire engine red ripple finish cashmere I want to get made up.
     
  18. eg1

    eg1 Senior member

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    I am very much enjoying this discussion, because I have reached the point where I no longer expect to commission any more suits -- just sport coats/odd jackets. I am not sure why the OP is concerned with a "modern" look? I like lots of variation in sport coats, so some may look modern and others, well, how do you say "non-modern"?

    As for navy pants, I gave up on them a little while ago because I often have to dress in relative darkness, and in that light I cannot tell navy from charcoal. Now if I am going to wear a pant with navy in it, I choose one that has a small pattern in it (say with grey/tan/charcoal etc) so I can differentiate them from the plain charcoals in my closet.

    I could see getting some plain navy flannels for wear with sweaters and a subset of my jackets -- maybe I would put them in a separate closet altogether! [​IMG]
     
  19. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    I am not sure why the OP is concerned with a "modern" look? I like lots of variation in sport coats, so some may look modern and others, well, how do you say "non-modern"?
    He asked for modern jackets. It's a large topic but discussing it doesn't render more old fashioned jackets obsolete. There is too much worry over the self and what the self does and doesn't like on others. I suppose its fun to make judgments on the people who wear certain types of clothes, the places they frequent and ultimately their entire way of life but to deny that something exists because you don't like it or it makes you feel badly is really intellectual spinelessness. Whether or not you like the clothes, maybe the exercise that would help is to imagine yourself as a wardrober for a film where different characters are represented by the best made clothes that they would wear. Perhaps this is where the sartorial rubber hits the realistic road. If you think that in a contemporary movie, set in a city, would cast say its leading man in a three piece harris tweed suit with lace up boots and a knit tie, then you probably would have short career. And if you managed to select the modern clothes (snicker, snicker) but your judgments led you to make them cheap because that's what the character deserves, then your film wardrobe career may be short. I should add, that to appreciate clothes is ultimately to judge them but also to value them in a vacuum. I love the clothes in the Austin Powers movies, but that doesnt mean I cant distinguish between beautifully made wardrobes and appropriateness for a situation. .
     
  20. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    what about something from Harrison's moon beam book?

    these are designed a citifide sports coatings, great hand easy to tailor and not as glossy as their cashmere stuff and as rustic as real tweeds!
     

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