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The sport coat

AvariceBespoke

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What attributes would help to make a sport coat look more modern & for the lack of a better word, metropolitan?

Can one use tweed or would this be too much like a hacking/hunting jacket?

I'm thinking a dark lightweight fabric with no to minimal pattern coupled with a relatively fitted cut w/ double vent would be a good framework to achieve the goal.

What colors would be best for:
1) charcoal trousers
2) navy trousers

any comments / opinions / suggestions / rants / raves would be appreciated. thanks
 

yachtie

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Just get a DB SC.

Based on your proposed fabric choices, I'd be worried it'd look like half a suit.
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by AvariceBespoke
What attributes would help to make a sport coat look more modern & for the lack of a better word, metropolitan?

- padded, pagoda shoulders with roping

- suppressed waist

- closed, squared quarters

- MiracleGro sprinkled on certain features: number of sleeve buttons, size of pocket flaps, width of lapel buttonhole, width of lapels, price

- ponytailed master tailor

- bitchin' ad campaign featuring fine bitches


- B
 

AvariceBespoke

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria
- padded, pagoda shoulders with roping

- suppressed waist

- closed, squared quarters

- MiracleGro sprinkled on certain features: number of sleeve buttons, size of pocket flaps, width of lapel buttonhole, width of lapels, price

- ponytailed master tailor

- bitchin' ad campaign featuring fine bitches


- B




i love this community - always great wit
 

AvariceBespoke

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Originally Posted by yachtie
Just get a DB SC.

Based on your proposed fabric choices, I'd be worried it'd look like half a suit.


perhaps a large check fabric could help... and light but not suit light fabric
 

yachtie

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Originally Posted by AvariceBespoke
perhaps a large check fabric could help... and light but not suit light fabric

I have a fairly large check DB sportcoat- Warning, it's an acquired taste. The fuzzy plains out of the Moonbeam book are nice and don't look like suiting.
 

Film Noir Buff

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This is an enormous topic which a lot of people should contribute to. I think people led very different lives and wore sports jackets for specific purposes, many of them outdoors at a time before suburbs or hanging out at chic bars. As a consequence the country colors associated with the sports jacket have held on for far too long. A camouflage which works in the country but looks clueless in urban environments. This is one of the reasons that in recent years Barbour started making their jackets in blues and blacks; the traditional green looked too affected for the city. And I think because the colors were too rustic, the sports jacket was dying until the idea of wearing them with jeans saved them. Many men preferred to wear a dark suit out to a jacket that made them look like a professor. But there is a demand for sports jackets in greys, blues and other color combinations that make them more city. Harrisons Moonbeam fabric book in Alpaca/lambswool is a test market in this direction. I think you could still wear tweed but get it in black, grey, navy, grey-blue rather than brown or green. I have a couple of tweed pieces I would wear more if I had gotten them in those colors rather than opting for the "traditional" greens and browns. Modern jackets ask for minamilism. Less details and, generally speaking, lighter weight, finer/smoother and more luxurious. Cashmeres, silks, silk-cashmere blends etc... You could even bring back some of the old university stripes on odd jackets which were "lost" for a while. Stripes on cashmeres, tweeds and cloths like lambswool. Some old fashioned patterns work in carefully arranged colors. I have a cashmere, houndstooth jacket from zegna fabric in a high contrast of yellow, cream, navy and dark brown. The brighter contrast makes it more "modern" than it would be if it were more muted and less fine.
 

itsstillmatt

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Seriously, for what you are describing, check out the Harrisons Millionaire's Cashmere book. It isn't what I would choose, but for citified sportcoats that are not boring, you really can't do a lot better.

Also, throw away the blue pants.
 

AvariceBespoke

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Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff
This is an enormous topic which a lot of people should contribute to.


I think people led very different lives and wore sports jackets for specific purposes, many of them outdoors at a time before suburbs or hanging out at chic bars. As a consequence the country colors associated with the sports jacket have held on for far too long. A camouflage which works in the country but looks clueless in urban environments. This is one of the reasons that in recent years Barbour started making their jackets in blues and blacks; the traditional green looked too affected for the city.

And I think because the colors were too rustic, the sports jacket was dying until the idea of wearing them with jeans saved them. Many men preferred to wear a dark suit out to a jacket that made them look like a professor. But there is a demand for sports jackets in greys, blues and other color combinations that make them more city. Harrisons Moonbeam fabric book in Alpaca/lambswool is a test market in this direction.

I think you could still wear tweed but get it in black, grey, navy, grey-blue rather than brown or green. I have a couple of tweed pieces I would wear more if I had gotten them in those colors rather than opting for the "traditional" greens and browns.

Modern jackets ask for minamilism. Less details and, generally speaking, lighter weight, finer/smoother and more luxurious. Cashmeres, silks, silk-cashmere blends etc...


You could even bring back some of the old university stripes on odd jackets which were "lost" for a while. Stripes on cashmeres, tweeds and cloths like lambswool.

Some old fashioned patterns work in carefully arranged colors. I have a cashmere, houndstooth jacket from zegna fabric in a high contrast of yellow, cream, navy and dark brown. The brighter contrast makes it more "modern" than it would be if it were more muted and less fine.


Great input - you definately understand what I was thinking & trying to articulate with this thread. Thanks
 

Film Noir Buff

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Originally Posted by AvariceBespoke
What is wrong w/ dark navy trousers?
Odd navy pants, at least in wools, have been associated with workmen (Think old skool gas station attendants) and are considered "tasteless". Part of this is because they emulate the suit trouser too closely and part of it is because they didn't go with the traditional country colors of the sports jacket. As far as i know, navy cotton corduroys and navy linen pants were an exception.
 

AvariceBespoke

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Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff
Odd navy pants, at least in wools, have been associated with workmen (Think old skool gas station attendants) and are considered "tasteless". Part of this is because they emulate the suit trouser too closely and part of it is because they didn't go with the traditional country colors of the sports jacket.

As far as i know, navy cotton corduroys and navy linen pants were an exception.


I see. What are better colors for the city office environment when not wearing a suit?
 

itsstillmatt

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Originally Posted by AvariceBespoke
I see. What are better colors for the city office environment when not wearing a suit?
Lots of gray, maybe some tan, maybe some brown. The other problem with navy pants is that they look like shit most of the time, and with most things.
 

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