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The sport coat

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by AvariceBespoke, Dec 29, 2008.

  1. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Senior member

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    What attributes would help to make a sport coat look more modern & for the lack of a better word, metropolitan?

    Can one use tweed or would this be too much like a hacking/hunting jacket?

    I'm thinking a dark lightweight fabric with no to minimal pattern coupled with a relatively fitted cut w/ double vent would be a good framework to achieve the goal.

    What colors would be best for:
    1) charcoal trousers
    2) navy trousers

    any comments / opinions / suggestions / rants / raves would be appreciated. thanks
     
  2. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    Just get a DB SC.

    Based on your proposed fabric choices, I'd be worried it'd look like half a suit.
     
  3. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    What attributes would help to make a sport coat look more modern & for the lack of a better word, metropolitan?

    - padded, pagoda shoulders with roping

    - suppressed waist

    - closed, squared quarters

    - MiracleGro sprinkled on certain features: number of sleeve buttons, size of pocket flaps, width of lapel buttonhole, width of lapels, price

    - ponytailed master tailor

    - bitchin' ad campaign featuring fine bitches


    - B
     
  4. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Senior member

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    - padded, pagoda shoulders with roping

    - suppressed waist

    - closed, squared quarters

    - MiracleGro sprinkled on certain features: number of sleeve buttons, size of pocket flaps, width of lapel buttonhole, width of lapels, price

    - ponytailed master tailor

    - bitchin' ad campaign featuring fine bitches


    - B


    [​IMG]

    i love this community - always great wit
     
  5. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Senior member

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    Just get a DB SC.

    Based on your proposed fabric choices, I'd be worried it'd look like half a suit.


    perhaps a large check fabric could help... and light but not suit light fabric
     
  6. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    perhaps a large check fabric could help... and light but not suit light fabric

    I have a fairly large check DB sportcoat- Warning, it's an acquired taste. The fuzzy plains out of the Moonbeam book are nice and don't look like suiting.
     
  7. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    This is an enormous topic which a lot of people should contribute to. I think people led very different lives and wore sports jackets for specific purposes, many of them outdoors at a time before suburbs or hanging out at chic bars. As a consequence the country colors associated with the sports jacket have held on for far too long. A camouflage which works in the country but looks clueless in urban environments. This is one of the reasons that in recent years Barbour started making their jackets in blues and blacks; the traditional green looked too affected for the city. And I think because the colors were too rustic, the sports jacket was dying until the idea of wearing them with jeans saved them. Many men preferred to wear a dark suit out to a jacket that made them look like a professor. But there is a demand for sports jackets in greys, blues and other color combinations that make them more city. Harrisons Moonbeam fabric book in Alpaca/lambswool is a test market in this direction. I think you could still wear tweed but get it in black, grey, navy, grey-blue rather than brown or green. I have a couple of tweed pieces I would wear more if I had gotten them in those colors rather than opting for the "traditional" greens and browns. Modern jackets ask for minamilism. Less details and, generally speaking, lighter weight, finer/smoother and more luxurious. Cashmeres, silks, silk-cashmere blends etc... You could even bring back some of the old university stripes on odd jackets which were "lost" for a while. Stripes on cashmeres, tweeds and cloths like lambswool. Some old fashioned patterns work in carefully arranged colors. I have a cashmere, houndstooth jacket from zegna fabric in a high contrast of yellow, cream, navy and dark brown. The brighter contrast makes it more "modern" than it would be if it were more muted and less fine.
     
  8. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Senior member

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    these are pretty nice and I think within what I was thinking

    [​IMG]
     
  9. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Seriously, for what you are describing, check out the Harrisons Millionaire's Cashmere book. It isn't what I would choose, but for citified sportcoats that are not boring, you really can't do a lot better.

    Also, throw away the blue pants.
     
  10. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Senior member

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    This is an enormous topic which a lot of people should contribute to.


    I think people led very different lives and wore sports jackets for specific purposes, many of them outdoors at a time before suburbs or hanging out at chic bars. As a consequence the country colors associated with the sports jacket have held on for far too long. A camouflage which works in the country but looks clueless in urban environments. This is one of the reasons that in recent years Barbour started making their jackets in blues and blacks; the traditional green looked too affected for the city.

    And I think because the colors were too rustic, the sports jacket was dying until the idea of wearing them with jeans saved them. Many men preferred to wear a dark suit out to a jacket that made them look like a professor. But there is a demand for sports jackets in greys, blues and other color combinations that make them more city. Harrisons Moonbeam fabric book in Alpaca/lambswool is a test market in this direction.

    I think you could still wear tweed but get it in black, grey, navy, grey-blue rather than brown or green. I have a couple of tweed pieces I would wear more if I had gotten them in those colors rather than opting for the "traditional" greens and browns.

    Modern jackets ask for minamilism. Less details and, generally speaking, lighter weight, finer/smoother and more luxurious. Cashmeres, silks, silk-cashmere blends etc...


    You could even bring back some of the old university stripes on odd jackets which were "lost" for a while. Stripes on cashmeres, tweeds and cloths like lambswool.

    Some old fashioned patterns work in carefully arranged colors. I have a cashmere, houndstooth jacket from zegna fabric in a high contrast of yellow, cream, navy and dark brown. The brighter contrast makes it more "modern" than it would be if it were more muted and less fine.


    Great input - you definately understand what I was thinking & trying to articulate with this thread. Thanks
     
  11. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Senior member

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    Also, throw away the blue pants.

    What is wrong w/ dark navy trousers?
     
  12. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    What is wrong w/ dark navy trousers?

    Everything.


    - B
     
  13. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    What is wrong w/ dark navy trousers?
    Odd navy pants, at least in wools, have been associated with workmen (Think old skool gas station attendants) and are considered "tasteless". Part of this is because they emulate the suit trouser too closely and part of it is because they didn't go with the traditional country colors of the sports jacket. As far as i know, navy cotton corduroys and navy linen pants were an exception.
     
  14. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Senior member

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    Odd navy pants, at least in wools, have been associated with workmen (Think old skool gas station attendants) and are considered "tasteless". Part of this is because they emulate the suit trouser too closely and part of it is because they didn't go with the traditional country colors of the sports jacket.

    As far as i know, navy cotton corduroys and navy linen pants were an exception.


    I see. What are better colors for the city office environment when not wearing a suit?
     
  15. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I see. What are better colors for the city office environment when not wearing a suit?
    Lots of gray, maybe some tan, maybe some brown. The other problem with navy pants is that they look like shit most of the time, and with most things.
     
  16. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    I see. What are better colors for the city office environment when not wearing a suit?
    This isn't simple. I would say anything that trends away from traditional and, some might say, country colors. But that isnt always true. Sometimes you can wear a color as long as it has a more current look or perhaps is an off tone. A different combination can also help. I have a camel colored cashmere/vicuna jacket which is just current enough because of its fine finish. I saw a mossy green herringbone jacket with a hot pink windowpane on it; you wouldnt call that "fuddy duddy".
     
  17. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Senior member

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    Lots of gray, maybe some tan, maybe some brown.

    The other problem with navy pants is that they look like shit most of the time, and with most things.


    Yeah I like gray. I don't really care for tan. Do any variations of blue work? w/ pattern, or texture or anything else
     
  18. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Senior member

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    these trousers I think look pretty nice.. it looks like a dark blue

    [​IMG]
     
  19. ColeFieldHouse

    ColeFieldHouse Senior member

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    Yeah I like gray. I don't really care for tan. Do any variations of blue work? w/ pattern, or texture or anything else

    I picked up steel blue mohair for my summer internship and liked it. No one asked me to pump gas, if that's a ringing endorsement.
     
  20. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yeah I like gray. I don't really care for tan. Do any variations of blue work? w/ pattern, or texture or anything else
    Are you talking pants, or jackets? For jackets, I wear every color under the sun, and I don't buy into the idea that tweed is too country, or too old fashioned, and I am not one of these guys who wears nipple pants and braces with his swim trunks. For pants, it is really gray, and no blue pants work.
     

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