Z Zegna fit vs. E Zegna fit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by samkl, Jan 16, 2016.

  1. samkl

    samkl Member

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    Context: I just bought my first suit (Ralph Lauren Black Label on sale) a couple weeks ago, and when I went back to the department store to have it tailored, the salesman and tailor told me it was just not a good fit. Among other problems, the shoulders were just too broad and too padded. It looked weird.

    The salesman then brought out a Z Zegna, which fit very well, and an Ermenegildo Zegna "Torino fit," which also fit very well. (I didn't buy either, since they weren't on sale.)

    My questions: are Z Zegna suits all the same fit? If so, which of the Emenegildo Zegna cuts are most like Z Zegna (besides Torino)? Any other brands with a similar fit?
     


  2. yanagi

    yanagi Senior member

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    Can we see some photos of you in your RLBL suit?
     


  3. samkl

    samkl Member

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    Man, I wish I had some but I don't. But for reference, I'm 6'2, about 175. My shoulders aren't that broad, but not that narrow, and apparently (said the salesman) one shoulder is slightly lower than the other. One of my shoulder blades protrudes more than the other. (Who even knew that was a thing?) I also slouch a bit.

    The result was that the RLBL's shoulders were a little too wide and structured. There was also some pulling around the button. On the back, it was wrinkly.

    Oh, and the sleeves were too short, too. Don't know if that gives you anything to work with... but thanks for helping!
     


  4. samkl

    samkl Member

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  5. classicman

    classicman Active Member

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    Samkl,

    ZZegna is drop 8 cut.

    You may want to try out Capri style jacket from E Zegna which is another drop 8 jacket.
    http://www.zegna.com/us/fine-fabrics/trofeo-wool-suits-jackets.html

    Also, you can look into Mila Easy jacket from E Zegna. It is drop 7 though.

    You may also want to try ISAIA Gregory model which is also drop 8. It will feature a soft shoulder. If you are in US both Saks and NM carries it.
     


  6. Wayward

    Wayward Senior member

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    ZZegna now has 2 cuts, a drop 8 and a drop 7. The drop 8 has very soft shoulders and tapered trousers. Its jacket would not look anything like an RLBL. I haven't had a chance to handle the new drop 7 model, but am guessing it would be similar to the discontinued City model, which had a more structured look. I would guess that's one you tried on.

    The mainline E. Zegna currently has 2 base models, Torino (drop 8) and Milano (drop 7). They're almost the reversal of ZZegna. Whereas the ZZegna drop 8 has soft shoulders and the drop 7 (presumably) structured shoulders, in the mainline it's the Milano with soft shoulders and the Torino with strong shoulders. However, I think the RLBL is still most built-up for shoulder padding.

    To answer your questions: No, ZZegna does not fit similarly to the mainline. ZZegna is more contemporary, so it's likely shorter and tighter. As for the mainline, since there are only 2 models, you won't really find anything similar to Torino other than, well, Torino.

    One recommendation, if you're looking at the ZZegna, is Canali's 17xxx lines. Canali has a bunch of models (11xxx, 13xxx, 15xxx, 17xxx and 18xxx I think), and the 17000 lines have a somewhat structured look, while also being slightly trimmer. I would also suggest looking at Paul Stuart, Samuelsohn or Corneliani if you can find them. The drop 7 models should all have stronger shoulders.

    If you're 6'2", you're likely going to need to wear tall sizes. Instead of "R", look for suits with "L" instead. Sleeves can normally be lengthened; it's the jacket length that can create problems.
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2016


  7. samkl

    samkl Member

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    Great, thanks a ton for this. Now the question is which of the ZZegna's I tried on in the store. Guess I have to actually get off the computer and try on some suits now.
     


  8. Wayward

    Wayward Senior member

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    This is an educated guess, but as I had pointed out, if the ZZegna you had tried on looked anything remotely like an RLBL in terms of a strong shoulder line, then it probably wasn't the Drop 8. Also, quite honestly, for the retail price of a ZZegna you can do a lot better.

    Yeah, the key is to be patient and try different suits. It's fine for people to recommend brands and everything, but you need to find a cut that fits your specific body. Also, you'll find that your tastes may change. For a while I was obsessed with soft shoulders like the Zegna Milano, but now all of my suits have much straighter shoulder lines.
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2016


  9. samkl

    samkl Member

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    The salesman was trying to tell me that the shoulder was way too strong on the RLBL, which leads me to believe that maybe I was actually looking at the Z Zegna drop 8.
     


  10. samkl

    samkl Member

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    And yes I agree--I think the list price of the Z Zegna was something like $1200, discounted to $900. That sounded crazy to me considering I got the full canvassed RLBL for $675.
     


  11. jonathanS

    jonathanS Senior member

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    I personally like the strong shoulder of RLBL. Why don't you take it to a real tailor and see what they have to say about it.
     


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