Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[The Apostle]

i agree. But, part of the problem is somebody years ago put on a half sole. Thus, the welt stitching is off and a little screwed up in places.

I found a shoe repair guy here in Memphis. He said he does full sole and heel replacement for $85. That almost sounds too cheap. Before I decide to do it, I’m going to have him show me the soles he uses. I might start with something easier like a pair of penny loafers before I unleash him on my vintage Florsheim.

I'm sure you're aware but if you're in Tennessee, these guys seem to do amazing work.

 

[The Apostle]

I think this is going to be my next project. I’m going to take a pair of Towncraft (Hanover) and dye them this way.

is the difference too much? I think it looks pretty cool.

View attachment 1319020

These are sexy time.

 

[suitforcourt]

I think this is going to be my next project. I’m going to take a pair of Towncraft (Hanover) and dye them this way.

is the difference too much? I think it looks pretty cool.

View attachment 1319020

@Shoonoob did something similar with a pair. Seek his guidance.

 

[Nealjpage]

Who here can explain (or point me to a resource) the purpose of Florsheim's 5-nail sole detail? The 1950s-era Imperials that I'm wearing today don't have that feature; come to think of it, I don't think my 1965 Imperials do, either. And from all appearances, both pairs have the original soles. When did they start using the 5-nails?

 

[happypebble]

Last night I decided to try a little project.

Background: I have 3 (or 4) pair of vintage 93602.

One pair was dark brown. They were almost chocolate brown and it was such an uninteresting brown that it really made these great shoes dull and pedestrian.

Here’s a picture when I wore them a couple weeks ago.

View attachment 1318887

I wanted to lighten them up and maybe even add a little antiquing to give them some depth. They were so dark compared to most other 93602, I figured they had YEARS worth of brown polish built up.

I started with alcohol and it took off A LOT of grungy brown. They looked better, but it wasn’t the dramatic change I was hoping for.

I decided to sand the edges because I have been impressed with others on here doing that. I did not realize that was not an easy chore.

The still weren't dramatically different. I decided to break out the big guns and tried Acetone. I was considering trying to make these like a two tone semi spectator.

That didn’t work. The acetone removed some more of the finish but not nearly as much as I thought it would.

After the acetone, they were sort of a faded reddish brown. I liked the red tones and decided to keep going. It still didn’t take as much color as I thought it would.

After letting them dry, I knew I needed to condition them and get some moisture back into the leather after the harsh acetone.

They looked better. the conditioner is so full of oils and fats that it makes them hard to polish afterwards. But, I know it’s good for the leather.

Finally, I polished them lightly with a neutral polish.

I am happy with the outcome. I think the natural edges look cool. But, I am surprised that they are not dramatically different. I do like the fact that the reddish tones are coming through.

Here they are before and after

View attachment 1318891

View attachment 1318892

View attachment 1318887

View attachment 1318893

Oh, that looks better all right. Nice

 

[Nobleprofessor]

I'm sure you're aware but if you're in Tennessee, these guys seem to do amazing work.

These are sexy time.

@Shoonoob did something similar with a pair. Seek his guidance.

Oh, that looks better all right. Nice

Thanks for all the positive feedback! And @mormonopoly I will definitely try to clean up the stitching. Now that it has been pointed out, its all I see. They do look pretty grungy.

@The Apostle Thanks! That's what I am going for, "sexy time" ! I'm a middle aged (sort of) father of 5 with gray hair, a little extra around the middle, who works too much. So, at least my shoes can be Sexy Time! I am extremely fortunate. My wife likes my shoe collection. But, I still have to ship some purchases to my office. She doesn't necessarily appreciate the fact that my shoes fill my half of the big closet and I had to commandeer a hall closet for the extras.

Thanks also for the Potter and Son's video. I moved to Memphis just over a year ago, so I was not familiar with these guys. They are in a suburb of Nashville, so the next time I go there, I will definite stop in. A recraft with JR Soles for $120 seems like a pretty good deal!

@suitforcourt I will definitely take any advice or suggestions. As in all things, the more I think I know, the more I realize how much I still have to learn.

Thanks @woofmang I am pretty happy with them -- at least for a very first effort.

 

[lemmy127]

I'm sure you're aware but if you're in Tennessee, these guys seem to do amazing work.

No need to be in Tennessee. They've got a website that you can order work done on, and then you can ship them your shoes from wherever you are.

 

[manowar]

A downside to being in Tennessee is that they charge tax. I'm in the state but four hours from them. Would definitely recommend Potter & Sons though after watching a bunch of their videos and perusing their website. They seem to have a knowledge of and a respect for the higher-end makers that my local cobblers do not.

 

[M.Photog]

I'm sure you're aware but if you're in Tennessee, these guys seem to do amazing work.

I haven't had any work done there but after watching a few of their youtube videos I am impressed. Looked at the prices on their website and they seem to be reasonable.

 

[Buckeye20012001]

I think this is going to be my next project. I’m going to take a pair of Towncraft (Hanover) and dye them this way.

is the difference too much? I think it looks pretty cool.

View attachment 1319020

I like the concept. Interested in seeing the final results.

 

[smfdoc]

Last night I decided to try a little project.

Background: I have 3 (or 4) pair of vintage 93602.

One pair was dark brown. They were almost chocolate brown and it was such an uninteresting brown that it really made these great shoes dull and pedestrian.

Here’s a picture when I wore them a couple weeks ago.

View attachment 1318887

I wanted to lighten them up and maybe even add a little antiquing to give them some depth. They were so dark compared to most other 93602, I figured they had YEARS worth of brown polish built up.

I started with alcohol and it took off A LOT of grungy brown. They looked better, but it wasn’t the dramatic change I was hoping for.

I decided to sand the edges because I have been impressed with others on here doing that. I did not realize that was not an easy chore.

The still weren't dramatically different. I decided to break out the big guns and tried Acetone. I was considering trying to make these like a two tone semi spectator.

That didn’t work. The acetone removed some more of the finish but not nearly as much as I thought it would.

After the acetone, they were sort of a faded reddish brown. I liked the red tones and decided to keep going. It still didn’t take as much color as I thought it would.

After letting them dry, I knew I needed to condition them and get some moisture back into the leather after the harsh acetone.

They looked better. the conditioner is so full of oils and fats that it makes them hard to polish afterwards. But, I know it’s good for the leather.

Finally, I polished them lightly with a neutral polish.

I am happy with the outcome. I think the natural edges look cool. But, I am surprised that they are not dramatically different. I do like the fact that the reddish tones are coming through.

Here they are before and after

View attachment 1318891

View attachment 1318892

View attachment 1318887

View attachment 1318893

Nice job. The red tones are very attractive.

 

[friendlygoz]

What kind of leather dye is recommended here? I watched a video about the superiority of oil based dyes over alcohol so I purchased the Fiebing's Pro Dye in chocolate color (which still has alcohol but includes oil dye).

I used the dye on an old pair of AE Warwick seconds last night and they came out much darker than expected. Only afterwards did I look again at the official website and noticed it says "specifically for natural strap leather, vegetable tanned leather", etc. So it would make sense coming from a medium/dark brown that it would excessively darken the leather since it is designed to be applied to light tan natural stuff. I also probably shouldn't have slathered it on so thick. Don't think I want to bother trying to strip it again, or if it would even take this stuff off. Oh well, it's been a fun project so far.

View attachment 1318967

that's happened to me on both pairs I've dyed. Put some VSC on a rag, and rub. I would be some of the dye comes off and it might even leave a cool patina. That's what happened with my two and only two dye attempts.

 

[friendlygoz]

The wedding I thought was in July will actually take place in October in LA. I'd like to fit in a visit to you and @friendlygoz if possible. I believe the wedding is on a Saturday. So maybe a work day visit for some food and drinks instead. Unless we can fit in an evening bin run.

it would be awesome to have you come to the Bay Area. Just keep in mind that we are about 400 miles (1 hour flight; 6-8 hour drive) from LA. I'm sure that @CWOyaji would agree that we are worth the travel, but So Cal and Nor Cal are not that close geographically (or culturally!).

 

[Nealjpage]

1950s vintage Florsheim Imperial cap-toe for casual Friday.

I just put in new laces. Brown. 'Cause black and brown laces are the only kind I can find locally.

 

[mormonopoly]

1950s vintage Florsheim Imperial cap-toe for casual Friday. View attachment 1319414

View attachment 1319415

I just put in new laces. Brown. 'Cause black and brown laces are the only kind I can find locally.

Are there more pictures of those? That looks like a pretty rare pair.