Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[eTrojan]

I’m inclined to agree. At that price I’d bail with even one questionable picture. This has several, and that number doesn’t match the number I have for Hanover Longwings.
My list, however, is woefully out of date. It doesn’t even include the vintage J&M wingtips that I found a few days ago and still need to post. mine is based on an old Shell Hunters post on AAAC, what is currently the most comprehensive?

This is the most comprehensive site I've found on the webz, but it's not complete. I have added a couple pairs to his listing by submitting photos of the shoes in question. Whoever runs the page is very amenable to updating if you can document the maker/model in question.

Shell Cordovan Models

Model reference guide for Shell Cordovan shoes

shellcordovanmodels.com

 

[friendlygoz]

Calling AE shell Cambridge owners @eTrojan ... how’s the fit? I think they are on the 5 last, which is a little narrow for me. But shell tends to be more forgiving, I think. Any thoughts?

 

[Nealjpage]

I’ve been wearing these 1940s winthrop spectators. I got these on eBay a few years ago for $15. They were listed as “funky 70s shoes.” View attachment 1325344

Sweet pair!

I love horribly misinformed eBay listings.

I keep my fingers crossed that I will stumble upon something like that myself.

 

[eTrojan]

Calling AE shell Cambridge owners @eTrojan ... how’s the fit? I think they are on the 5 last, which is a little narrow for me. But shell tends to be more forgiving, I think. Any thoughts?

Yes, shell is more forgiving. I wear a 13 A in the 65 last, but all three of my Cambridge are 13 AA and are pretty comforable.

 

[Nobleprofessor]

Calling AE shell Cambridge owners @eTrojan ... how’s the fit? I think they are on the 5 last, which is a little narrow for me. But shell tends to be more forgiving, I think. Any thoughts?

I have shoes on the 5 last and just last week I tried on the Strand in Shell. It fit the same for me as my Park Avenue. I’m sure you know the 5 (65) last is long and narrow.

the Cambridge and the strand in Shell are great looking. I’m really restraining myself from getting the Strand in brown Shell.

I know a few folks have navy shoes. What do you wear them with? Khaki? What else? Would they look weird with navy?

 

[friendlygoz]

Yes, shell is more forgiving. I wear a 13 A in the 65 last, but all three of my Cambridge are 13 AA and are pretty comforable.

Thanks. Since you have some experience with that model, what’s your opinion of these (condition? Price? Etc)? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/303459758741

 

[Nobleprofessor]

How about some Golden Harvest?

FLORSHEIM 10D GOLDEN HARVEST 93631 LONGWING DRESS SHOES VINTAGE | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for FLORSHEIM 10D GOLDEN HARVEST 93631 LONGWING DRESS SHOES VINTAGE at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

I have bought a 4-5 pairs of shoes from this seller, he is very professional. He has very nice inventory and describes them accurately in my experience.

Also what is the difference between the Duckie Brown and regular Florsheim? I’m talking about the recent ones? Were they really that much better?

 

[eTrojan]

Thanks. Since you have some experience with that model, what’s your opinion of these (condition? Price? Etc)? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/303459758741

Those look like they're in really good shape. The price is higher than I would pay (especially with three pairs already in the closet), but it is a fair price for those shoes.

 

[stook1]

How about some Golden Harvest?

FLORSHEIM 10D GOLDEN HARVEST 93631 LONGWING DRESS SHOES VINTAGE | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for FLORSHEIM 10D GOLDEN HARVEST 93631 LONGWING DRESS SHOES VINTAGE at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

I have bought a 4-5 pairs of shoes from this seller, he is very professional. He has very nice inventory and describes them accurately in my experience.

Also what is the difference between the Duckie Brown and regular Florsheim? I’m talking about the recent ones? Were they really that much better?

This is the seller from whom I bought the 93605s I posted a few days back. I highly recommend him as well. If anyone is interested in this pair feel free to reach out to me. It's possible to reach him off Ebay.

 

[Paul902]

Thanks for pulling that whole thread together. I was over at @Paul902 house this morning for tea. I think we were talking past each other a bit yesterday. He has the exact pair of shoes except that they are "The McHale Shoe". The "McHale Shoe" was the McHale plant's second quality level offering, behind the John McHale Signature line (also called the Custom Shoe at times). Paul's McHale version of this shoe is most certainly made from water bison, while the Florsheim labelled version is indeed embossed calf. This is the typical pattern that you see after 1958 when Interco bought McHale and Florsheims started to be made in the same facility. They seem to have kept the McHale and John McHale shoes a step up in quality and price from the similar offering of Florsheim Blue Label and Imperials.

Nothing but the best for old JJ, eh? Do we have any advertisements for Florsheim or McHale exotics in the same time period? Would be interesting to see how the pricing compares.

Jim and I enjoyed a cuppa, a good chat, and went 0-3 on the hunting grounds in my part of the city. We searched high and low for calf shoes at my house, and also went 0-3 on that one.

 

[eTrojan]

Sitting in the waiting room of @smfdoc ’s office with one of my 3 pairs of Florsheim 93602s (after donating the 4th to his watch strap project).

 

[friendlygoz]

Those look like they're in really good shape. The price is higher than I would pay (especially with three pairs already in the closet), but it is a fair price for those shoes.

Thanks for the input. I grabbed them for $149 shipped. The seller agreed to knock $30 off. I’ve been wanting a pair of these for a long time. I’ve been on a buying binge lately and I need to slow down. All are great shoes - shell JM saddles; AE shark Wartons; near NOS 93602s that I got for an incredible deal; and now AE shell Cambridge.

 

[Philby]

Can I briefly ask for some serious advice? I have been paranoid about shoe fit for a while, particularly with vintage shoes. I have quite wide feet stubborn toes, so that the widest part of my foot is effectively the toe box. That means that many shoes will be practically unwearable as they are squashing my toes (my dark brown suede pair has given some space where the little toe hits, as is visible). Should I just continue as before and seek wide pairs, or can I also size up a bit allow for some extra room in the toe box like with these Alfred Sargents? Some perspective on this would be helpful.

 

[Shoonoob]

There are quite a few wide footed chaps in here including myself. 9.5EEE and my right foot is probably EEEe. LB Sheppard signatures usually fit too narrow in the toe box for me and I can get away with 10EEE in those. Vintage Florsheims are generally good TTS for me. Up-sizing can result in heel slip. Nettletons are generous and up-sizing is no good at all. Also vintage sizing is not always consistent. I have also used a stretcher with the bunion knobs placed where my pinkie toes hit for a little extra room on fabulous shoes that pinch. It's really a trial and error. And I haven't been any help to you at all.

 

[actionjbone]

This is the most comprehensive site I've found on the webz, but it's not complete. I have added a couple pairs to his listing by submitting photos of the shoes in question. Whoever runs the page is very amenable to updating if you can document the maker/model in question.

Shell Cordovan Models

Model reference guide for Shell Cordovan shoes

shellcordovanmodels.com

For the record, it's run by @davidVC