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Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by smfdoc, Jul 14, 2016.

  1. suitforcourt

    suitforcourt Distinguished Member

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    3 pairs just cleared my US shipping address drama. To make it short, I had the eBay sellers list both price and place of manufacturing (i.e. USA). My US shipping address company (Cross Border Pickup) had to "investigate my claim" as they've noted all of my shoe purchases are surprisingly made in the USA. I don't know how they would either confirm or deny my claim, unless they opened the shoe packages.

    Anyways, 2 pairs of 93605 and a pair of 92611, all from from @davidVC 's list.

    The first pair of 93605 looks to be more of the classic burgundy, whereas the second pair is heading towards coke red. It will be interesting to see how they appear in person. I will now be the proud owner of 3 different pairs of 93605s (@Shoonoob has convinced me it's necessary to have more than one 93605 given the diversity and uniqueness of shell cordovan).

    All 3 pairs seem to be in great shape. I will be trying the glycerin treatment on the 2 pairs of shell. One of my shell pairs undergoing recraft shows a crack, but the cobbler (Brian Gavigan in Buffalo NY) says he can take care of it.

    I can't wait. Same feeling my kids are going through about seeing their favourite Paw Patrol characters at the mall this weekend.

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  2. Oshare

    Oshare Senior Member

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    All great looking shoes. I hope they are in good condition and fit you well!
     

  3. smfdoc

    smfdoc Distinguished Member

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    @suitforcourt has picked up some great pairs. For those who are relatively new, please observe the second pair seen below and notice the orange tint seen in most of the brogue holes.

    Screen Shot 2019-03-13 at 7.55.00 AM.png

    This is from the raw leather when they punched the holes. They are a very good thing as it is means the prior owner has not filled them in by applying loads of polish over the years. This is a good thing to look for when surfing pairs on Ebay and other sites and assessing their condition.
     

  4. instigateur

    instigateur Distinguished Member

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    Wow!
     

  5. suitforcourt

    suitforcourt Distinguished Member

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    To be honest, I don't see the orange tint that you're referring to. I am of course taking your word and deferring to your superior knowledge.
     

  6. smfdoc

    smfdoc Distinguished Member

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    Well then, allow me to pontificate. I'm an expert from afar in my field which means I must use illustrations. Here is a view of the shoe and the yellow arrows are pointing to a few of the brogue holes.

    Screen Shot 2019-03-13 at 12.42.40 PM.png

    Now, here is an illustration of the brogue hole viewed from the same basic angle as seen in the shoe. The outside, inside and thickness of the leather are labeled.

    Screen Shot 2019-03-13 at 12.48.00 PM.png

    The inside wall of the brogue hole is marked with an X. This is the unfinished area of the leather and it can look orange-ish in color. Its the same color that you can see in these images of cracked shell.

    Screen Shot 2019-03-13 at 12.53.30 PM.png

    You can see the clean brogue holes on this pair I lifted from vcleat.com. Notice that the holes are nice and bright in color in comparison to the external color of the shoe. Not really orange from this angle, but considerably brighter than the external color of the shoe.

    Screen Shot 2019-03-13 at 12.54.02 PM.png
     

  7. M635Guy

    M635Guy Distinguished Member

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    My pair had a fair bit of the "orange brogue" other than on the toes:

    During the "unboxing" (seen along the wing at the bottom right)
    [​IMG]

    Post elbow-grease:
    [​IMG]
     

  8. instigateur

    instigateur Distinguished Member

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    Nice find. What size?
     

  9. Shoonoob

    Shoonoob Senior Member

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    Not sure if it was your intention to be anything other than instructional...but that was the hardest I laughed all day.
     

  10. instigateur

    instigateur Distinguished Member

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    Warmer and still wet today. Broke out my Florsheim 97625 wings.

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  11. eTrojan

    eTrojan Senior Member

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    The AE Cambridges I posted yesterday have the orange edges in their brogueing, as do my NOS Wright shortwings in shell.
     

  12. Bon Vivant Life

    Bon Vivant Life Senior Member

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    hello, typically post elsewhere, but was directed here to possibly get help identifying the maker of these boots. nice made in England for either a person or a shop. thought they were florsheims based on quick look at heel, but then saw the MIE inside. also, it is not missing a strap, it is hidden under the tongue.

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  13. suitforcourt

    suitforcourt Distinguished Member

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    Yep, another new pair of shoes. Made in USA Dexters that are barely worn. Courtesy of @Paul902 . Because I needed another pair of LWBs.

    My second pair of Dexter and the fit is spot on.

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  14. Paul902

    Paul902 Distinguished Member

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  15. JohnAAG

    JohnAAG Distinguished Member

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    I really love this thread!

    2 new additions to the collection from this week. Photo is from in the store (I was excited to share them on the Thrift thread) ... 20190311_105304.jpg

    This my first time seeing a pair of Florsheims with that off-white/cream color interior. Any ideas about that?

    Cheers!
    John
     

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