Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[CWOyaji]

I’m not familiar with the brand. Anyone know anything about them?

Backstory on the web has them being founded in 1814, that's all I remember.

 

[Letric]

What size???

The NOS Hanovers are an 11 D.

 

[CWOyaji]

If you're in Seattle, I think there may be a certain shell cordovan aficionado in town who wears an 11 - paging @davidVC .

 

[suitforcourt]

3 pairs just cleared my US shipping address drama. To make it short, I had the eBay sellers list both price and place of manufacturing (i.e. USA). My US shipping address company (Cross Border Pickup) had to "investigate my claim" as they've noted all of my shoe purchases are surprisingly made in the USA. I don't know how they would either confirm or deny my claim, unless they opened the shoe packages.

Anyways, 2 pairs of 93605 and a pair of 92611, all from from @davidVC 's list.

The first pair of 93605 looks to be more of the classic burgundy, whereas the second pair is heading towards coke red. It will be interesting to see how they appear in person. I will now be the proud owner of 3 different pairs of 93605s (@Shoonoob has convinced me it's necessary to have more than one 93605 given the diversity and uniqueness of shell cordovan).

All 3 pairs seem to be in great shape. I will be trying the glycerin treatment on the 2 pairs of shell. One of my shell pairs undergoing recraft shows a crack, but the cobbler (Brian Gavigan in Buffalo NY) says he can take care of it.

I can't wait. Same feeling my kids are going through about seeing their favourite Paw Patrol characters at the mall this weekend.

 

[Oshare]

3 pairs just cleared my US shipping address drama. To make it short, I had the eBay sellers list both price and place of manufacturing (i.e. USA). My US shipping address company (Cross Border Pickup) had to "investigate my claim" as they've noted all of my shoe purchases are surprisingly made in the USA. I don't know how they would either confirm or deny my claim, unless they opened the shoe packages.

Anyways, 2 pairs of 93605 and a pair of 92611, all from from @davidVC 's list.

The first pair of 93605 looks to be more of the classic burgundy, whereas the second pair is heading towards coke red. It will be interesting to see how they appear in person. I will now be the proud owner of 3 different pairs of 93605s (@Shoonoob has convinced me it's necessary to have more than one 93605 given the diversity and uniqueness of shell cordovan).

All 3 pairs seem to be in great shape. I will be trying the glycerin treatment on the 2 pairs of shell. One of my shell pairs undergoing recraft shows a crack, but the cobbler (Brian Gavigan in Buffalo NY) says he can take care of it.

I can't wait. Same feeling my kids are going through about seeing their favourite Paw Patrol characters at the mall this weekend.

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All great looking shoes. I hope they are in good condition and fit you well!

 

[smfdoc]

@suitforcourt has picked up some great pairs. For those who are relatively new, please observe the second pair seen below and notice the orange tint seen in most of the brogue holes.

This is from the raw leather when they punched the holes. They are a very good thing as it is means the prior owner has not filled them in by applying loads of polish over the years. This is a good thing to look for when surfing pairs on Ebay and other sites and assessing their condition.

 

[instigateur]

My original print of Stanford Elmore Dack and his wife Dorothy leaving New York harbour in 1934 finally arrived. Here they are with a pair of rare S.E. Dack whole cut water bisons and a period correct shoe tree. It may have just been a reflection in the glass, but I thought I saw old S.E. smile.

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Wow!

 

[suitforcourt]

@suitforcourt has picked up some great pairs. For those who are relatively new, please observe the second pair seen below and notice the orange tint seen in most of the brogue holes.

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This is from the raw leather when they punched the holes. They are a very good thing as it is means the prior owner has not filled them in by applying loads of polish over the years. This is a good thing to look for when surfing pairs on Ebay and other sites and assessing their condition.

To be honest, I don't see the orange tint that you're referring to. I am of course taking your word and deferring to your superior knowledge.

 

[smfdoc]

To be honest, I don't see the orange tint that you're referring to. I am of course taking your word and deferring to your superior knowledge.

Well then, allow me to pontificate. I'm an expert from afar in my field which means I must use illustrations. Here is a view of the shoe and the yellow arrows are pointing to a few of the brogue holes.

Now, here is an illustration of the brogue hole viewed from the same basic angle as seen in the shoe. The outside, inside and thickness of the leather are labeled.

The inside wall of the brogue hole is marked with an X. This is the unfinished area of the leather and it can look orange-ish in color. Its the same color that you can see in these images of cracked shell.

You can see the clean brogue holes on this pair I lifted from vcleat.com. Notice that the holes are nice and bright in color in comparison to the external color of the shoe. Not really orange from this angle, but considerably brighter than the external color of the shoe.

 

[M635Guy]

My pair had a fair bit of the "orange brogue" other than on the toes:

During the "unboxing" (seen along the wing at the bottom right)

Post elbow-grease:

 

[instigateur]

Cross post from Thrift Bragging Thread. Was told there'd be some appreciation for these here:

What's them Shell PTB's under there?...

NOS Hanover. $15.

Nice find. What size?

 

[Shoonoob]

Well then, allow me to pontificate. I'm an expert from afar in my field which means I must use illustrations. Here is a view of the shoe and the yellow arrows are pointing to a few of the brogue holes.

View attachment 1143333

Now, here is an illustration of the brogue hole viewed from the same basic angle as seen in the shoe. The outside, inside and thickness of the leather are labeled.

View attachment 1143336

The inside wall of the brogue hole is marked with an X. This is the unfinished area of the leather and it can look orange-ish in color. Its the same color that you can see in these images of cracked shell.

View attachment 1143339

You can see the clean brogue holes on this pair I lifted from vcleat.com. Notice that the holes are nice and bright in color in comparison to the external color of the shoe. Not really orange from this angle, but considerably brighter than the external color of the shoe.

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Not sure if it was your intention to be anything other than instructional...but that was the hardest I laughed all day.

 

[instigateur]

Warmer and still wet today. Broke out my Florsheim 97625 wings.

 

[eTrojan]

Putting out fires in the AE Cambridge shell today.

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The AE Cambridges I posted yesterday have the orange edges in their brogueing, as do my NOS Wright shortwings in shell.

 

[Bon Vivant Life]

hello, typically post elsewhere, but was directed here to possibly get help identifying the maker of these boots. nice made in England for either a person or a shop. thought they were florsheims based on quick look at heel, but then saw the MIE inside. also, it is not missing a strap, it is hidden under the tongue.

Spoiler