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Vienna Holtzgenagelt

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by the.chikor, Dec 30, 2007.

  1. the.chikor

    the.chikor Senior member

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    Gentlemen,

    I recently returned from a successful trip to Vienna. [​IMG] While there, I picked up a pair of bespoke "Monk Strap" ankle boots made by Lucian Maftei. The pictures are attached to satisfy anyone's curiosity.
    The entire Maftei Family is a pleasure to deal with. They are very friendly and accomodating with their time, day and location for meeting (as they have two stores). They work fast!
    I showed up for a fitting and my shoes were done-much to my surprise and approval! I tried them on and mentioned the alterations that were needed; they were done by the next evening! The fit was absolutely perfect and I mean perfect! Which is the most important thing for me. The style and asthetics were everything that I asked for.
    The materials and craftsmanship were outstanding. The only thing that I had to do was apply a coat of polish and edge dressing. I chose the pegged sole when I placed the order-merely because I had never actually seen it done before and it looked different than the standard sewn welt.
    After I placed the order when in Vienna about a month prior to this visit, I came home and perused the internet to find a wide variety of opinions on the pegged or Holzgenagelt style of shoe construction. I read one article or thread ( I don't recall where) that said the pegged shoe was best reserved for work boots, unless one wanted blisters and calluses. [​IMG] When I arrived this time to Vienna, I was actually contemplating having Maftei change the shoe to a traditional sewn welt construction.
    However, I had the pleasure of meeting with fritzl, fellow forum member, who opined that the pegged sole would not blister my feet and put my mind at ease. Fritzl is a true gentleman who, in my opinion, is a treasure trove of knowledge in the field.[​IMG]
    Fritzl was correct. I hardly noticed the the difference with regards to stiffness in the shoe when walking. After a few days, I notice no difference at all; which is a huge relief. [​IMG] I am satisfied with my selection.
    Anyways, enough of my tangent diatribe. Bottom line up front-I can highly recommend Maftei bespoke shoes.
     
  2. aportnoy

    aportnoy Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Great boots and a wonderful story, too. Congrats![​IMG]
     
  3. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A very attractive pair in deed. Interesting to see, that Maftei has gone right away from the typical Viennese last (short and stumpy) and opted for a very sleek internationalist style. A truly courageous step for a Viennese firm, they usually love their potato shaped lasts (sorry, Fritzl). These boots even have a waist, not a beer-gut. (Only problem I have are the Mister-Minit type heels. They look cheap). Apart from that, flowers all round. [​IMG]

    What about putting your three shoes, Klemann, Myhre and Maftei side by side. Line up the heels to a wall and compare the overall length. My guess is the Klemann are the shortest, then comes Myhre and the Maftei are the longest. There probably is a whole 10 mm (3/8") difference between the shortest and the longest.

    That serves all those wrong, who believe there is only one last for a given pair of feet. All three shoemakers would have come up with the identical last. They obviously did not.

    P.S. It's "Holzgenagelt" (not Holtzgenagelt). I know, I'm a pedant. [​IMG]
     
  4. the.chikor

    the.chikor Senior member

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    Only problem I have are the Mister-Minit type heels. They look cheap).

    Bengal-stripe: Thank you for the complements. It is, however, a good thing that no one sees the "Mister-Minit" type heels when I wear the shoes. [​IMG] I used to have the traditional leather heels until I followed the suggestion of JP Myhre with the rubber heels-they are kind on my legs and hip (ten years in the Army wasn't kind to my body[​IMG] .)

    What about putting your three shoes, Klemann, Myhre and Maftei side by side. Line up the heels to a wall and compare the overall length. My guess is the Klemann are the shortest, then comes Myhre and the Maftei are the longest. There probably is a whole 10 mm (3/8") difference between the shortest and the longest.

    I will have to try this. It will be interesting to see. I know that the lasts aren't the same as all of the shoe makers have told me that the style of shoe is going to change the last-especially with the narrower styled shoes.



    P.S. It's "Holzgenagelt" (not Holtzgenagelt). I know, I'm a pedant. [​IMG]

    You may be a pedant, [​IMG] or maybe you have just been conspiring with my grandparents[​IMG]
    Thanks for viewing and the comments.
     
  5. Tumbleweed

    Tumbleweed Senior member

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    I wonder where the pegged sole misinformation comes from. My RM Williams have a screwed sole, which is more or less the same as pegged, and they couldn't be any more comfortable. Perhaps someone had a badly-fitted shoe with pegged sole and misplaced the blame.

    Anyway, I love the polish on those shoes. You can use it do indecent things.
     
  6. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

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    Indeed, a revealing shine.
     
  7. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    luk-cha has sent me a request to give a comprehensive overview about the austro-hungarian tradition of shoemaking.

    it'll take a while, but i'll do my best.

    and still, Maftei opted for the "viennese last" whith my oders, cause it offers the best fit for my feet. no more or less...

    but chikors examples shows his versatility and reflects the spirit of a ambitious shoemaker-family.
     
  8. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I would second what Bengal said about the the heel it is the sort of thing we get on custom shoes here in HK but they are made by topy!

    i do like the the shape of the last and find the overall profile to be pleasing to the eye!

    now you have 3 pairs of black shoes it is time to move on to to more interesting colors!

    fritzl, i for one can not wait, thank you in advance!![​IMG]
     
  9. the.chikor

    the.chikor Senior member

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    now you have 3 pairs of black shoes it is time to move on to to more interesting colors!

    My profession isn't so understanding of fashion forward colors or trends, but eventually I will change colors. Thank you for your response.
     
  10. Tudor

    Tudor Member

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    black is good. all my shoes are black not due to job restrictions but because my own stiff rules (maybe head dissorder) [​IMG] ...... I have tried Maftei also, recently .... I can say only this: another order will be placed in the next few days [​IMG]

    cheers
     
  11. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    My profession isn't so understanding of fashion forward colors or trends, but eventually I will change colors. Thank you for your response.


    try dark browns and dark burgundys these are classic and not very fashion forward. you never know things might change[​IMG]
     
  12. the.chikor

    the.chikor Senior member

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    black is good. all my shoes are black not due to job restrictions but because my own stiff rules (maybe head dissorder) [​IMG] ...... I have tried Maftei also, recently .... I can say only this: another order will be placed in the next few days [​IMG]

    cheers



    When there, I placed an order for two more pairs-monks and semi-brogue's. When I go back, I anticipate an order for a pair of full brogue's.
     
  13. the.chikor

    the.chikor Senior member

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    try dark browns and dark burgundys these are classic and not very fashion forward. you never know things might change[​IMG]

    That is exactly what I anticipate - apair of ox-blood and a pair in dark brown.[​IMG]
     
  14. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That is exactly what I anticipate - apair of ox-blood and a pair in dark brown.[​IMG]

    "Dude Fight the Power!"[​IMG]
     
  15. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    I would second what Bengal said about the the heel it is the sort of thing we get on custom shoes here in HK but they are made by topy!

    It was the special order of our friend the.chikor

    To be honest, I was involved in these two gentlemens decision to give Maftei a try. Btw, I'm still waiting on smoothjazzone' report on his bespoke orders. He announced them in the LL. Materna, Balint and Maftei.

    But the true story is, that I told the.chikor and tudor, that they should get in touch with Maftei personally, what they did. And Maftei did the job, not me.

    fritzl, i for one can not wait(on the report), thank you in advance!![​IMG]

    I'll see, what I can do. Better be patient now[​IMG] , and receive a comfortable surprise.

    According to the never ending colour discussions.

    I have to say that my first pairs were also in black, and then I started to explore brown and red tones.

    the.chikor, do not take luk-cha' advise as an offense. He is a good guy, he was just thinking... [​IMG]
     
  16. the.chikor

    the.chikor Senior member

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    It was the special order of our friend the.chikor

    To be honest, I was involved in these two gentlemens decision to give Maftei a try. Btw, I'm still waiting on smoothjazzone' report on his bespoke orders. He announced them in the LL. Materna, Balint and Maftei.

    But the true story is, that I told the.chikor and tudor, that they should get in touch with Maftei personally, what they did. And Maftei did the job, not me.



    I'll see, what I can do. Better be patient now[​IMG] , and receive a comfortable surprise.

    According to the never ending colour discussions.

    I have to say that my first pairs were also in black, and then I started to explore brown and red tones.

    the.chikor, do not take luk-cha' advise as an offense. He is a good guy, he was just thinking... [​IMG]


    Fritzl- thank you for clarifying the special order on the heel-as you know Maftei ordinarily makes the standard leather heel or whatever else their customer prefers. As you said, they are very ambitious, and talented, if I might add. I asked for the rubber heel on this pair and the next two.[​IMG]

    I think we had the discussion on the colors while at am Hof. I liked your approach of starting with black and building a base, then branching out into various colors. Of course I take no offense to luk-cha', as he is just giving his opinion.
     
  17. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    FWIW my first bespoke shoes where black too i think it is important to have the first pair in black as this should be most peoples first shoe imo.

    after that then maybe a burgundy and the a dark brown. i personally think 3 pairs of bespoke black shoes should be enough (well for me at least) a full brogue, a cap toe (perf or non perf) and the a whole cut or a plain toe oxford, once these are cover so should be most situations.

    moreover, like you said if you working enviroment dictates you dress code then it perhaps leave a little less room for choice.

    there was ment to be any offence in regard to the full plastic heel i just dont like them on city shoes and are more suited to casual/ counrty shoes but this is your own choice and again it depend on your own tastes.
     
  18. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    It may be of interest, that the web appearance of Maftei will be released in German and English under the "old" address within the next days.

    www.maftei.at - there is a small icon between center and right corner for switching the language.
     
  19. sho'nuff

    sho'nuff Senior member

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    nice. reminds me of a santoni last.
     

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