Vanson/Styleforum/Thurston Bros slim fit Japanese double rider MTO

Discussion in 'Preorders, Group Made-to-order, trunk shows, and o' started by LA Guy, Apr 19, 2014.

  1. afixedpoint

    afixedpoint Crossfit

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    Shoulder ratio seem fine to me. It would be great to see a size chart with approx measurements!
     


  2. MrTony92

    MrTony92 Senior member

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    I would prefer to keep the shoulder measurements in line with the Junya fit, I'm guessing most would agree
     


  3. Dairy Phobic

    Dairy Phobic Senior member

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    yeah I would vote to keep it at the ratio, double rider jackets with a large p2p and small shoulders doesn't look good imo
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2014


  4. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I think that the sleeves definitely need to be shortened. Maybe decrease the shoulder width just a little bit. I usually trust first impressions. If you felt that it would be good to take in the shoulders slightly, I would do that, but maybe by just .5".
     


  5. nicelynice

    nicelynice Senior member

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    I'd hesitate to tweak it too much
    This isn't a super slim jacket and won't look good as such - the leather is thick and you'll want a bit of room for a knit and a shirt. It's also a structured jacket and the wider shoulders give it a good silhouette
    I'd say sleeves shortened to an average dude's thumb so they still have a bit of length and leave it at that. If you want it tighter size down but leave the proportions the same
     


  6. joiji

    joiji Senior member

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    Shoulders seem a little wide. I wear ~21 P2P and favour ~18 shoulders.
     


  7. sinnedk

    sinnedk Senior member

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    sweet and i will be able to custom order a different color as well in the future? 3 months lead time i assume...
     


  8. rbnman

    rbnman Senior member

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    Agree with most that measurements/ fit is fine. It just seems that this sample is more like an XL, so it's causing some confusion as I thought sample was going to be made for LA guy who is more like an L (38/40).

    A sizing chart would help here

    If you really wanted to, take 0.2 off the shoulders but not more than that.
     


  9. HeavenResign

    HeavenResign Senior member

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    Looking at all of the fit pics (not just for the prototype, but for the junya runway models) it is pretty clear the shoulders are just a bit big on all of them. If both Thurston and Fok agree we need slightly smaller shoulders I think we should listen to them, especially since Thurston is generally wary of making things smaller. If he thinks they should be I think it's worth looking into. The junya jackets are great but they weren't designed by an infallible being. .75" smaller on the overall shoulder measurement seems like a good compromise. That's just over a quarter inch on each individual shoulder which looking at the models looks perfect to me, especially because they will stretch. I can live with a .5" decrease though, too.
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2014


  10. AeroleathersTB

    AeroleathersTB Senior member

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    I think we'll decrease the shoulder-to-shoulder by .75 inches or 1 inch. This will make the jacket considerable slimmer through the shoulders compared to the Junya and make it more of a fashion fit.
     


  11. Luc-Emmanuel

    Luc-Emmanuel Senior member

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    Do you have an idea of p2p and shoulder width for size S and M? I would then feel more at ease with discussing shoulder width decrease.
    There is not much you can do with your jacket if it's too slim at the shoulders, so we should be extra careful modifying this.
    Granted I have plenty of chest hair, but I intend to wear something underneath this jacket. :embar:
    !luc
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2014


  12. HeavenResign

    HeavenResign Senior member

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    Hmm I have to agree it'd be useful for me to know the shoulder width in my size, is there an estimate for the shoulder with for size XS as well?
     


  13. AeroleathersTB

    AeroleathersTB Senior member

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    As is, the pit-to-pit on size M will be 21.75. As is, the shoulder-to-shoulder will be 19.25.

    As is, the pit-to-pit on size S is 20.75. As is, the shoulder-to-shoulder will be 18.75.

    If we change it, the pit-to-pit on the size M will be 21.75 and the shoulder-to-shoulder will be 18.25.

    If we change it, the pit-to-pit on the size S will be 20.75 and the shoulder-to-shoulder will be 17.75.

    If we bring the shoulders in, the shoulders won't be too small for people, but the jacket will have a slightly different upper back shape from the Junya jackets...
     


  14. Steel28

    Steel28 Senior member

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    just saw the proper update. Proposed changes are great.
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2014


  15. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    This is great. Because we have some smaller dudes, could you also put up the proposed measurements for the XS?

    One thing about looking at runway photos is that they often show the deficiencies, rather than the strengths, of a specific garment. Skinny or "athletic" (I use that term to feel better about myself!,) very few of us will have the shape of a runway model, which is generally, wide, angular, shoulders, shallow chest, and small waist and hips. Oh, and usually very tall for the weight. The shoulders are often outsized in width compare to the rest of the body. This means that if the shoulders look big on the model, they will look, for our sizes, really big on the rest of us. Looking at the proposed changes, this makes a lot more sense. a small with a 17.75 outer shoulder seems reasonable, A 18.25 shoulder is pretty darn big.

    There have been some complaints about the Junya fit, and I suspect that this is the root of it. If you take the right size for your shoulders, the body is constricting, but if you take the right size for your body, you end up playing right tackle for the Cincinnati Bengals. I think that with these changes, we will remedy this problem for most people.

    The model types will cope, I'm sure.

    Cheers,

    Fok.
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2014


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