Vanson/Styleforum/Thurston Bros slim fit Japanese double rider MTO

[afixedpoint]

Shoulder ratio seem fine to me. It would be great to see a size chart with approx measurements!

 

[MrTony92]

I would prefer to keep the shoulder measurements in line with the Junya fit, I'm guessing most would agree

 

[Dairy Phobic]

yeah I would vote to keep it at the ratio, double rider jackets with a large p2p and small shoulders doesn't look good imo

 

[LA Guy]

TBH I don't even want an ultra-skinny jacket, I want to be able to wear it with a very light sweater and shirt or with just a tee and I'm not looking for some RO body hugging fit. Backs just tend to scale weird when the sample is so big, basically same concern I had before. The sleeves might actually be fine but it is hard to say with the pic, the length and stiffness making them look different than they will look after a month of wear.

Shoulders do stretch but I wouldn't tighten them much, otherwise you'll get some sort of () effect that most aren't looking for, especially if they want a relatively traditional masculine shape, albeit less extreme than seen on a real riders jacket. In the end, I do believe we want to play to Vanson's strengths but with a fashion tweak.

Note: will there be a women's (or very small) version, girl is 5'9 and slim but def doesn't have a boy's physique (i.e. no Freja angled shoulders). I believe that if I'm small, xs would work.

We're concerned as well about decreasing the shoulder-to-shoulder. Everyone likes the Junya fits...so we're a bit hesitant to change them...thoughts?

I think that the sleeves definitely need to be shortened. Maybe decrease the shoulder width just a little bit. I usually trust first impressions. If you felt that it would be good to take in the shoulders slightly, I would do that, but maybe by just .5".

 

[nicelynice]

I'd hesitate to tweak it too much
This isn't a super slim jacket and won't look good as such - the leather is thick and you'll want a bit of room for a knit and a shirt. It's also a structured jacket and the wider shoulders give it a good silhouette
I'd say sleeves shortened to an average dude's thumb so they still have a bit of length and leave it at that. If you want it tighter size down but leave the proportions the same

 

[joiji]

Shoulders seem a little wide. I wear ~21 P2P and favour ~18 shoulders.

 

[sinnedk]



Yes....we do plan on carrying sizes XS-L in the shop.

sweet and i will be able to custom order a different color as well in the future? 3 months lead time i assume...

 

[rbnman]

Agree with most that measurements/ fit is fine. It just seems that this sample is more like an XL, so it's causing some confusion as I thought sample was going to be made for LA guy who is more like an L (38/40).

A sizing chart would help here

If you really wanted to, take 0.2 off the shoulders but not more than that.

 

[HeavenResign]

Looking at all of the fit pics (not just for the prototype, but for the junya runway models) it is pretty clear the shoulders are just a bit big on all of them. If both Thurston and Fok agree we need slightly smaller shoulders I think we should listen to them, especially since Thurston is generally wary of making things smaller. If he thinks they should be I think it's worth looking into. The junya jackets are great but they weren't designed by an infallible being. .75" smaller on the overall shoulder measurement seems like a good compromise. That's just over a quarter inch on each individual shoulder which looking at the models looks perfect to me, especially because they will stretch. I can live with a .5" decrease though, too.

 

[AeroleathersTB]

Looking at all of the fit pics (not just for the prototype, but for the junya runway models) it is pretty clear the shoulders are just a bit big on all of them. If both Thurston and Fok agree we need slightly smaller shoulders I think we should listen to them, especially since Thurston is generally wary of making things smaller. If he thinks they should be I think it's worth looking into. The junya jackets are great but they weren't designed by an infallible being. .75" smaller on the overall shoulder measurement seems like a good compromise. That's just over a quarter inch on each individual shoulder which looking at the models looks perfect to me, especially because they will stretch. I can live with a .5" decrease though, too.

I think we'll decrease the shoulder-to-shoulder by .75 inches or 1 inch. This will make the jacket considerable slimmer through the shoulders compared to the Junya and make it more of a fashion fit.

 

[Luc-Emmanuel]

Do you have an idea of p2p and shoulder width for size S and M? I would then feel more at ease with discussing shoulder width decrease.
There is not much you can do with your jacket if it's too slim at the shoulders, so we should be extra careful modifying this.
Granted I have plenty of chest hair, but I intend to wear something underneath this jacket.
!luc

 

[HeavenResign]

Hmm I have to agree it'd be useful for me to know the shoulder width in my size, is there an estimate for the shoulder with for size XS as well?

 

[AeroleathersTB]

Do you have an idea of p2p and shoulder width for size S and M? I would then feel more at ease with discussing shoulder width decrease.
There is not much you can do with your jacket if it's too slim at the shoulders, so we should be extra careful modifying this.
Granted I have plenty of chest hair, but I intend to wear something underneath this jacket.

!luc

Hmm I have to agree it'd be useful for me to know the shoulder width in my size, is there an estimate for the shoulder with for size XS as well?

As is, the pit-to-pit on size M will be 21.75. As is, the shoulder-to-shoulder will be 19.25.

As is, the pit-to-pit on size S is 20.75. As is, the shoulder-to-shoulder will be 18.75.

If we change it, the pit-to-pit on the size M will be 21.75 and the shoulder-to-shoulder will be 18.25.

If we change it, the pit-to-pit on the size S will be 20.75 and the shoulder-to-shoulder will be 17.75.

If we bring the shoulders in, the shoulders won't be too small for people, but the jacket will have a slightly different upper back shape from the Junya jackets...

 

[Steel28]

just saw the proper update. Proposed changes are great.

 

[LA Guy]

As is, the pit-to-pit on size M will be 21.75. As is, the shoulder-to-shoulder will be 19.25.

As is, the pit-to-pit on size S is 20.75. As is, the shoulder-to-shoulder will be 18.75.

If we change it, the pit-to-pit on the size M will be 21.75 and the shoulder-to-shoulder will be 18.25.

If we change it, the pit-to-pit on the size S will be 20.75 and the shoulder-to-shoulder will be 17.75.

If we bring the shoulders in, the shoulders won't be too small for people, but the jacket will have a slightly different upper back shape from the Junya jackets...

This is great. Because we have some smaller dudes, could you also put up the proposed measurements for the XS?

One thing about looking at runway photos is that they often show the deficiencies, rather than the strengths, of a specific garment. Skinny or "athletic" (I use that term to feel better about myself!,) very few of us will have the shape of a runway model, which is generally, wide, angular, shoulders, shallow chest, and small waist and hips. Oh, and usually very tall for the weight. The shoulders are often outsized in width compare to the rest of the body. This means that if the shoulders look big on the model, they will look, for our sizes, really big on the rest of us. Looking at the proposed changes, this makes a lot more sense. a small with a 17.75 outer shoulder seems reasonable, A 18.25 shoulder is pretty darn big.

There have been some complaints about the Junya fit, and I suspect that this is the root of it. If you take the right size for your shoulders, the body is constricting, but if you take the right size for your body, you end up playing right tackle for the Cincinnati Bengals. I think that with these changes, we will remedy this problem for most people.

The model types will cope, I'm sure.

Cheers,

Fok.