Vanson/Styleforum/Thurston Bros slim fit Japanese double rider MTO

[HeavenResign]

Trying to figure out how the sizing works - my Schott in XS has a p2p of 18.75 and a s2s of 16". So an XS in the Junya would be 19.75 with 17.25" shoulders? That doesn't seem right...

 

[MarkI]



This is great.  Because we have some smaller dudes, could you also put up the proposed measurements for the XS?

One thing about looking at runway photos is that they often show the deficiencies, rather than the strengths, of a specific garment.  Skinny or "athletic" (I use that term to feel better about myself!,) very few of us will have the shape of a runway model, which is generally, wide, angular, shoulders, shallow chest, and small waist and hips.  Oh, and usually very tall for the weight.  The shoulders are often outsized in width compare to the rest of the body.  This means that if the shoulders look big on the model, they will look, for our sizes, really big on the rest of us.  Looking at the proposed changes, this makes a lot more sense.  a small with a 17.75 outer shoulder seems reasonable,  A 18.25 shoulder is pretty darn big.  

There have been some complaints about the Junya fit, and I suspect that this is the root of it.  If you take the right size for your shoulders, the body is constricting, but if you take the right size for your body, you end up playing right tackle for the Cincinnati Bengals.  I think that with these changes, we will remedy this problem for most people.

The model types will cope, I'm sure.

Cheers,

Fok. 

If the shoulders get slimmed, do you think the body will need to be adjusted as well? I worry that with tightening up the shoulders you'll lose the V silhouette and get more of a )( look which is not flattering at all

 

[afixedpoint]

21.75 and 18.25 looks good.

Are armholes very high or are they more forgiving? My TOJs are all 22-22.5 pit, looks like I might be between sizes here

 

[kmert]

As is, the pit-to-pit on size M will be 21.75. As is, the shoulder-to-shoulder will be 19.25.

As is, the pit-to-pit on size S is 20.75. As is, the shoulder-to-shoulder will be 18.75.

Just a quick comment: going by these measurements, this does not look like a slim-fit jacket.

If I'm not mistaken, a size M normally corresponds to a 2x48cm chest, or just under 2x19". That means a LOT of extra room if a Medium corresponds with 21.75

 

[AeroleathersTB]

21.75 and 18.25 looks good.

Are armholes very high or are they more forgiving? My TOJs are all 22-22.5 pit, looks like I might be between sizes here

The pit-to-pit measurement that you need varies depending on jacket type, style, and brand. In some Aero styles, I take a 22 pit-to-pit and in others a 23...

 

[AeroleathersTB]

Just a quick comment: going by these measurements, this does not look like a slim-fit jacket.

If I'm not mistaken, a size M normally corresponds to a 2x48cm chest, or just under 2x19". That means a LOT of extra room if a Medium corresponds with 21.75

It's a slimmed down motorcycle jacket, but still not a fashion jacket...

 

[canstyleace]

xs should be around 19" p2p & 17" s2s, especially given the shoulder gussets
and bottom hem should be under 17" across, no?

 

[AeroleathersTB]

This is great. Because we have some smaller dudes, could you also put up the proposed measurements for the XS?

One thing about looking at runway photos is that they often show the deficiencies, rather than the strengths, of a specific garment. Skinny or "athletic" (I use that term to feel better about myself!,) very few of us will have the shape of a runway model, which is generally, wide, angular, shoulders, shallow chest, and small waist and hips. Oh, and usually very tall for the weight. The shoulders are often outsized in width compare to the rest of the body. This means that if the shoulders look big on the model, they will look, for our sizes, really big on the rest of us. Looking at the proposed changes, this makes a lot more sense. a small with a 17.75 outer shoulder seems reasonable, A 18.25 shoulder is pretty darn big.

There have been some complaints about the Junya fit, and I suspect that this is the root of it. If you take the right size for your shoulders, the body is constricting, but if you take the right size for your body, you end up playing right tackle for the Cincinnati Bengals. I think that with these changes, we will remedy this problem for most people.

The model types will cope, I'm sure.

Cheers,

Fok.

The XS will be around 19.5 pit-to-pit and 17 shoulder...

 

[AeroleathersTB]

Trying to figure out how the sizing works - my Schott in XS has a p2p of 18.75 and a s2s of 16". So an XS in the Junya would be 19.75 with 17.25" shoulders? That doesn't seem right...

We're going to have to do an XXS as well, so you're covered...

 

[AeroleathersTB]

xs should be around 19" p2p & 17" s2s at most, specially given the shoulder gussets
and bottom hem should be under 17" across, no?

We're going to do an XXS, which will be just about 18.5 pit-to-pit and 16.5 shoulder...

 

[LA Guy]

If the shoulders get slimmed, do you think the body will need to be adjusted as well? I worry that with tightening up the shoulders you'll lose the V silhouette and get more of a )( look which is not flattering at all

Definitely not. If you've ever owned or handled a real motorcycle jacket, the "V" is exaggerated more than any piece of designer clothing, including Tom Ford "A" model suits, which are pretty ridiculous. In order to fill those out, you would need a 12" drop. I think that I can safely say that that is a very small fraction of the population. The jackets are designed to have a huge amount of mobility, which is useful if you are crouched over on a bike. You also leave room for armor. The waist also is extra cinched because you really don't want a draft going up your jacket. Put it this way. If you were designing suit for the same purpose (why, I have no idea), you'd be putting a size 42 shoulder and chest on a size 38 body. So, you get the football player look. I suppose that that is for some, but.. not so much for me.

It's a common misconception that the way to slim down a motorcycle jacket is to slim it everywhere. Nope. What you are actually doing is slim down the chest and shoulders for civilian use. The net result is a jacket that has slimmer shoulders and has less of a drop between the chest and the waist. The proposed measurements will still have a V shape, just one that looks more at home on the street.

That said, if you are an outlaw biker, and you are interpreting "street" as in "street fight", and need mobility through your shoulders so that you can more easily indent a skull ring on someone's forehead, you probably don't want this slim of a jacket.

 

[canstyleace]



We're going to do an XXS, which will be just about 18.5 pit-to-pit and 16.5 shoulder...

Thanks but I think I can work with your xs numbers

 

[AeroleathersTB]

We're looking at 1-2 months for another sample and then 1-2 months for size grading after that. People can purchase in at the time of the final sample or after size grading has taken place.

 

[Dbear]

It's a slimmed down motorcycle jacket, but still not a fashion jacket...

This is pretty key, and I think where the disconnect lies when people are trying to endlessly slim the thing down

 

[brokeassp]

I agree. I'd leave it up to Thurston and la guy to make the final modifications. No need to slim the sleeves. Just shorten the sleeve length and you're golden