Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[LuxireStudio]

I can't see the labels on the pics....

Attached another image to show some more details. White paper inserted below swatch for shade uniformity.

 

[OxfordDon]

DWW "summer tweed" on an amazing Spring day in London

 

[Winot]



DWW "summer tweed" on an amazing Spring day in London

Just lovely. Had the first fitting of mine with Elia Caliendo at the end of March. Who made yours up?

 

[OxfordDon]



Just lovely. Had the first fitting of mine with Elia Caliendo at the end of March. Who made yours up?

I don't move in such exalted circles

. I work with a Thai family that trade as "Marzotto Tailor." Not one of the famous names, but been working with them for 18 years so they've had a chance to dial in my fit.

Fabric is a bit hard to photograph on my dinky iPhone. The variations in color/texture really gives it fits so shots don't do it justice.

 

[edmorel]

Some more Yakitty Yak

 

[seferphier]



Some more Yakitty Yak

looks great!

 

[LuxireStudio]

X-Post - Luxire thread:
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Tropical wool comparison: Smith Finmeresco, Minnis Fresco and Dugdale New-Fine-Worsted

Quote:

I would say that it is similar to the Smith in almost all aspects except for the minor difference in thickness. Weave, transparency and feel are very similar.

Will post some images tomorrow. Playing with light and background to allow visual comparison of the weave and transparency of all 4.

 

[brax]

I always found Manton's review of summer fabrics to be spot on. As you can tell, he is not a big fan of the Crispaire as it is neither fish nor fowl. Here it is again:

MANTON:
I would break this down into categories.

1) Hard finish tropical worsteds. These are standard suit cloths, just in light weights. They will not look all that different from other, polished worsteds. The best books are Lesser Tropical, Minnis Rangoon (selling out fast) and Smith Gilt Twist. Rangoon is mostly gone, but you can still get the the glen plaids, which I think are great.

2) Fresco. I like Minnis a lot, and prefer the 9/10 to the 8/9, but cannot wear the former in blazing heat. Woodhouse fresco has a 240 g range which I think is better than Minnis 8/9, but may be hard to get. Matt says that Rubinacci bought all the remaining stock when the firm folded, so you might want to try that. Crispaire is too polished for me. I like my frescos to be fresco and my tropicals to be polished like that.

3) Mohair blends. Not sure what to recommend, I sourced all mine myself. Harrison Cape Kid is good but extremely expensive.

4) Linen. So many good options.

5) Dupioni silk. Draper's has a great, if small, range. Probably too hot for a real scorcher but it looks neat.

6) Cotton. Foolish to get a bespoke suit from this, perhaps, but to me nothing wears cooler than a superlightweight cotton. Lousy performer. In Atlanta, shouldn't seersucker be part of the landscape?

7) Jacketings. These mostly suck. The two decent books are Hardy Riviera and Carlo Barbera for Lesser lambswool. The latter is hard to get and running out. I know A&S has some. Another option I like is silk-wool, but I know of nothing decent in this category today. The nice ones are slubby but not shiney, whereas all the ones out there today shine like mirrors.

Just stay with light colors. Light gray, tan, cream, pale olive (cotton or linen only), blue lighter than navy.

 

[venividivicibj]

Speaking of cotton, got my order from Brisbane Moss today-

Navy cotton twill

Swatches here -

'12 Dark Navy'
Cotton twill
290g/m2

 

[lordsuperb]



Speaking of cotton, got my order from Brisbane Moss today-

Navy cotton twill

Swatches here -

'12 Dark Navy'
Cotton twill
290g/m2

Pants?

 

[venividivicibj]

Was thinking about a casual summer unstructured SC.

I did get some of their 'stretch' cotton (97% Cotton, 3% Lycra) in the same shade as well.

 

[lordsuperb]



Was thinking about a casual summer unstructured SC.

I did get some of their 'stretch' cotton (97% Cotton, 3% Lycra) in the same shade as well.

Can anyone point me in the right direction for cloth?

 

[venividivicibj]

H&S has some like that in their cotton book

 

[Concordia]

If you want very casual, Murray's on Nantucket is now selling their Breton red by the yard.

 

[LuxireStudio]

I would say that it is similar to the Smith in almost all aspects except for the minor difference in thickness. Weave, transparency and feel are very similar.

Will post some images tomorrow. Playing with light and background to allow visual comparison of the weave and transparency of all 4.

Image as promised. View the large image here for a good comparison.