Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[delhite]

Guys:

How is Linen ( or cotton) from Minnis Vs W Bill

I can get a decent price on Minnis and will go for it If it is comparable to Bill


Any experts advice on Minnis Cotton for Pants/suit for warm weather

 

[gdl203]

Thanks Brendon

Minnis QZ is great. I've been recommending to all who like Minnis Classic but look for a softer hand. From what I've seen, it makes up really nicely. Really good value too.

 

[phphl]

Hi GDL203
In reply to your question of Rangoon vs Fresco.
I am a bespoke tailor and have used both. Very different cloths.
Rangoon I think used to be more entry level under the John G Hardy as the business used to be set up with Minnis being the peak then Hardy then bunches with a red colour Criterion was one bunch.15-20 years ago now Can't be sure of this though has been a while for Rangoon. I bought a bit when they were clearing it out.Good cloth but nothing special. The Fresco has an extra twist in the yarn and therefore travels well. Either way the matt finish square weave will perform well against shining up.

To all Minnis fans out there. Just working on 2 suits in their QZ .....340 g 11 1/2 ounce super 150's . Makes up superbly. Not sure if there is another 12oz 150's out there but I have been using QZ for the last couple of years and should be on your radar for a winter suit.
My favourite cloths over the last 20 plus years, if anyone was asking?
Dormeuil Westminster 340 g super 100's discontinued and Amadeus when it used to be 2 by 2 100's.
Supertronic 360g Scabal high twist travel cloth discontinued
Minnis QZ
Hardy Minnis Crown Classic 340 g 100's 99% 1% Cashmere
Any mohair by William Halstead.

Good luck GDL203. I hope this is of help
regards
Brendon

Any views regarding Lesser's stuff (excluding the LGBs which are apparently in another league)?

 

[Despos]

Westminster 340 g super 100's discontinued and Amadeus when it used to be 2 by 2 100's.
Supertronic 360g Scabal high twist travel cloth discontinued
Minnis QZ
Hardy Minnis Crown Classic 340 g 100's 99% 1% Cashmere
Any mohair by William Halstead.

Several people have mentioned how well the QZ 150's tailors but I haven't tried it yet.

Agree about the Supertronic. When it was discontinued I bought up 140 yards in 4 colors, down to less than 50 yards. Amazing cloth for the body to weight ratio and the hand. Perfect summer trouser

The superior cloth from that era was the Bahama cloth from Wain Shiell. Similar to Rangoon but much better IMO

Didn't like Amadeus even when it was 2 X 2

Crown Classic was very good but I believe that is also discontinued.

Would add two to your list from Holland & Sherry. Mille Miglia , 10 ounce Super 80's and Victory Flannel 150's.

Both were fantastic to tailor and to wear

I miss the mohairs that were made in the 70's. Much different then from what you get today. Better colors and patterns. Mostly all solid patterns now.

 

[Brendon]

Hi Phphl
No haven't used the Lesser. I know it's good though if I am to believe the many in London I have talked to who all support it. All seemed to be owned by very large companies now. It is hard enough to keep the mills I deal with happy with the orders I give them. Being a one and a half man/ woman tailoring unit does mean if you carry too many ranges you do service to none. Some shops/tailors just seem to collect the things. Probably easier here in Auckland 30 in summer 10 in winter so quite temperate so a lot of clients talk about year round cloths.

Hi Despos
Yes if I am brutally honest the Amadeus just made it on. Still have a couple of lengths with the Super 100's Made in England running down the side. Not there now.


Lucky man with the Supertronic. Both the 300g and the 360 were great.
I am not old enough to have gone through the 3 ply mohair the first time around. I did make a suit out of an old piece of super 70's and mohair given to me by an old tailor and loved it. Dirt Brown with a check. Probably 9-10oz.


As a tailor I do think we are lucky to have such variety of cloth despite some of the challenges.
I am cutting out an 18 oz 3 piece for a man this week. Have not had to work with that weight very often. Thank goodness our summer is over and I don't have to wear that blanket over my lap for the next few weeks.

I had a young lady tailor form Italy ( NZ born) who visited me recently and was talking about few year old cloth being sought after in Italy as it had time to dry from the process of being made.
Anyone heard about this?

There may be something in it but sounds like a good way to sell old stock for more than $5- a metre.
Wool being hydro-scopic can suck up to 30% of its weight in water so surely it is always changing.
Still if this is the case I have plenty of old stock waiting for the right person to pay well over the odds

Someone was looking on Style forum for Hemp cloth.
Marzotto Group ( huge Co) have a range of Fratelli Tallia Di Delfino " Blue " Carnet. Some pure Canapa ( Hemp I hope) and Canapa e Lana in there. Looks nice. Dont know the price as I have not used the bunch yet . I found it at the last PV show in Paris

have a good day all
Brendon

 

[gdl203]

We got a series of sport coats made with the Delfino hemp/wool mix from the "Blue" book. Turned out really nicely.

 

[Brendon]

Hi Depsos
Yes Minnis QZ very forgiving. Must be some compromise somewhere as the price is good. Did not go up with HFW new price list and thought it may a little.
The other cloth which has been my go to has been the YTC super 100's pick and picks all cloth 2 by 2 and designed by a guy named Steven Willis. He knows his stuff. Press off well. Not expensive and as they are a small company probably no US rep. Cloth I think is made by Taylor and Lodge who are a premium mill in Huddersfield. One of the better ones.
Brendon

 

[poorsod]



I had a young lady tailor form Italy ( NZ born) who visited me recently and was talking about few year old cloth being sought after in Italy as it had time to dry from the process of being made.
Anyone heard about this?

There may be something in it but sounds like a good way to sell old stock for more than $5- a metre. 
Wool being hydro-scopic can suck up to 30% of its weight in water so surely it is always changing. 
Still if this is the case I have plenty of old stock waiting for the right person to pay well over the odds

Maybe they are talking about Carlo Barbera?

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/08/01/business/global/01italy.html?_r=0

Mr. Barbera calls wool a living fiber, and he does not mean this metaphorically. After yarn is dyed here, it rests in the spa for as long as six months, recuperating until 20 percent of its weight is water. Then the material undergoes a 15-step process, which Mr. Barbera will not detail, other than to magisterially summarize it as “the nobilization of the fabric.”

 

[Brendon]

Hi Poorsod
thanks for that I will have a read tonight at home. Looks interesting and a big and successful Mill. She was definitely referring to old stock ie Cloth sitting on the shelf. My question is that if the wool is changing weight with the weather as we all are. Hence the importance of resting the suits and shoes etc. Then why would the age (other than risking moths and silverfish and just dust) have much to do with it.I have no idea but I do not weave cloth for a living. I hope there is something to it. It would be great if my old cloth appreciated like a strad violin or old masters painting. It sounds like just a very clever piece of commerce.....jealous.
I am going to buzz a few technical cloth friends in the next few days and see if they can add to this but also look forward to any further thought from the community and certainly appreciate the article link
Go well
Brendon

 

[Brendon]

GDL 203
Nice presentation. Looks good. Lovely looking cloth and I love a good patch pocket to keep the tennis balls in before I step onto court for a serve. I have a first ed of Thorntons sectional cutting from the 1890's ish and there is a superb plate of men in the summer tennis outfits. Patch pockets for the ageing Mac Enroes' .

When I visit Italy each year, the Italian men always have that lovely blue jacket and their blue shirts have that dash of purpleish blue that suits the olive skin. After seeing this not catered for by the various mills Uk who supply me I went looking for this and found the Blue bunch at PV.
Being hemp I have a few decent irons so no excuses for not looking sharp in summer. Can't wait to buy a length for my most important customer who has several unfinished suit jacket projects on the go....me. Hopefully in time for the start of our next Summer in about 8 months time
Brendon

 

[Concordia]



We got a series of sport coats made with the Delfino hemp/wool mix from the "Blue" book. Turned out really nicely.

That's a very nice blue for the summer. One of the standard books, or did you do a special order?

 

[Concordia]



Hi Depsos
Yes Minnis QZ very forgiving. Must be some compromise somewhere as the price is good. Did not go up with HFW new price list and thought it may a little.

Has anyone had a chance to compare this with some of the other luxury 11oz things-- Grand Cru, Golden Bale 11oz, etc?

 

[Brendon]

Hi Concordia
I have never used Golden Bale and not familiar with Grand Cru but will look it up.
QZ may well be made by Taylor and Lodge? they make for a lot of cloth sellers and they are capable at the luxury end.
Can you buy Golden Bale cut length wholesale?. If dealing direct with T & L 30 m to 60 m minimum and only on some cloth I think. ie approx 10- 20 suits. Could be 2 pieces on other 120m or 4 suits.
QZ cut length for sure fro HFW but cannot truly answer your question but hope that is of some use.
Brendon

 

[Fishball]



I am doing a couple of custom runs of Minnis Rangoon for the Gennaro Paone trunk shows in Hong Kong.

It's a discontinued 250-280g (8-9oz) tropical fresco suiting. Two staples will be made. One in a light navy that is colour matched to a Caccioppoli summer hopsack. It would make a great summer blazer suit. The other one is a mid grey that is very similar to the mid grey found in the now discontinued Woodhouse Summer Comfort. Please PM me if you are interested in getting some of these cloths. Price is UKP40/m plus shipping at cost (estimated at UKP30/jacket, UKP40/suit).

Hi Kolecho,
The price for rerun is really good! Of course it is not as good as their closed out sale, but still a steal!
The shipping is from UK, Italy or HK? If I can pick it up at HK without shipping, I will be in!

 

[Fishball]



Hi GDL203
In reply to your question of Rangoon vs Fresco.
I am a bespoke tailor and have used both. Very different cloths.
Rangoon I think used to be more entry level under the John G Hardy as the business used to be set up with Minnis being the peak then Hardy then bunches with a red colour Criterion was one bunch.15-20 years ago now Can't be sure of this though has been a while for Rangoon. I bought a bit when they were clearing it out.Good cloth but nothing special. The Fresco has an extra twist in the yarn and therefore travels well. Either way the matt finish square weave will perform well against shining up.

To all Minnis fans out there. Just working on 2 suits in their QZ .....340 g 11 1/2 ounce super 150's . Makes up superbly. Not sure if there is another 12oz 150's out there but I have been using QZ for the last couple of years and should be on your radar for a winter suit.
My favourite cloths over the last 20 plus years, if anyone was asking?
Dormeuil Westminster 340 g super 100's discontinued and Amadeus when it used to be 2 by 2 100's.
Supertronic 360g Scabal high twist travel cloth discontinued
Minnis QZ
Hardy Minnis Crown Classic 340 g 100's 99% 1% Cashmere
Any mohair by William Halstead.

Good luck GDL203. I hope this is of help
regards
Brendon

What is your opinion on QX?