Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Moo Wenwu]

loro piana
drapers

dm me if you need any further guidance

Thank you! Appreciate the offer. I am thinking of ordering from Kent Wang, and I believe they source the fabrics themselves. I may direct them to you — thanks.

 

[bernoulli]

VBC flannel funded.

 

[konstantis]

Does anyone have any source for Brisbane Moss fabrics ? Thanks.

 

[Moo Wenwu]

Sorry, have yet another question here. I've read many threads on this, but I haven't found a good answer for my situation.

In short, does anyone have recommendations for cloth for a navy sport jacket that wears well in San Francisco-like weather? There's a fabric from Ring Jacket called "Italian Balloon" that I particularly like because of how crease-resistant/soft it is. It's a 86% wool/6% cashmere/6% silk/2% nylon blend.

Right now, I'm considering Fresco mock leno (either 510243 navy or 510244 dark navy). However, I hear Fresco is a little scratchy/hard to touch. Is there anything a bit softer and more comfortable wearing? I'm also toying around with the idea of a tougher flannel (e.g. Drago Rugby Flannel). Maybe that isn't a wise decision as this is my first proper navy sport jacket though. I've been using my navy suit's jacket as an orphan odd jacket so far (it's a high-twist fabric), so I was hoping to make this one a bit different.

Thanks all.

 

[jupiterstyle]

May be you can try the Holland & Sherry Airesco 4 ply 14oz, just as heavy but not as rough as the fresco mock leno

Sorry, have yet another question here. I've read many threads on this, but I haven't found a good answer for my situation.

In short, does anyone have recommendations for cloth for a navy sport jacket that wears well in San Francisco-like weather? There's a fabric from Ring Jacket called "Italian Balloon" that I particularly like because of how crease-resistant/soft it is. It's a 86% wool/6% cashmere/6% silk/2% nylon blend.

Right now, I'm considering Fresco mock leno (either 510243 navy or 510244 dark navy). However, I hear Fresco is a little scratchy/hard to touch. Is there anything a bit softer and more comfortable wearing? I'm also toying around with the idea of a tougher flannel (e.g. Drago Rugby Flannel). Maybe that isn't a wise decision as this is my first proper navy sport jacket though. I've been using my navy suit's jacket as an orphan odd jacket so far (it's a high-twist fabric), so I was hoping to make this one a bit different.

Thanks all.

 

[S K M]

My navy mock leno jacket is hands down the most worn sports jacket I have in my wardrobe, I use it every week year round. I had it made half-lined so not warm at all, however.

 

[classicalthunde]

Does anyone have any source for Brisbane Moss fabrics ? Thanks.

I believe they sell direct to consumer if you email them? At least in the midst of the pandemic they sent me some swatch cards and a price list...not sure if that has changed at all these days.

 

[yanagi]

Right now, I'm considering Fresco mock leno (either 510243 navy or 510244 dark navy). However, I hear Fresco is a little scratchy/hard to touch. Is there anything a bit softer and more comfortable wearing? I'm also toying around with the idea of a tougher flannel (e.g. Drago Rugby Flannel). Maybe that isn't a wise decision as this is my first proper navy sport jacket though. I've been using my navy suit's jacket as an orphan odd jacket so far (it's a high-twist fabric), so I was hoping to make this one a bit different.

Thanks all.

I have a DB in the Fresco 510244. Wore it yesterday when it was in the high-60's, low-70's. It's a conservative, dark navy; and I don't think it's "scratchy/hard to touch." Definitely recommended.

 

[Simon A]

I have a DB in the Fresco 510244. Wore it yesterday when it was in the high-60's, low-70's. It's a conservative, dark navy; and I don't think it's "scratchy/hard to touch." Definitely recommended.

A key question is "scratchy compared to what?". Compared to many fabrics of the early 20th century, HFW Fresco and similar fabrics from other merchants are engineering miracles. Light, with good body and hold their shape well, and breathe nicely. No sign of 30 micron+ fibres which created the sensation of "prickle" in the old days. Of course you will find worsteds made from ultrafine wool with a silkier hand, or cashmere blends, but they may have tradeoffs in terms of durability and breatheability. For a jacket that will get a lot of wear, in a mild to warm climate, the Mock Leno you mention should be great. You can compare swatches from merchants like HFW, Dugdale, Smith Woollens, and figure out which you like best.

 

[Moo Wenwu]

Thank you all for the great perspectives. This makes me more confident about the mock leno. Between the two, I’m leaning more toward 510244, rather than 510243. Thinking the darker navy might be more versatile and better suited for my complexion (esp. with black hair).

Does anyone have pictures for comparison? Thanks!

 

[brax]

Sorry, have yet another question here. I've read many threads on this, but I haven't found a good answer for my situation.

In short, does anyone have recommendations for cloth for a navy sport jacket that wears well in San Francisco-like weather? There's a fabric from Ring Jacket called "Italian Balloon" that I particularly like because of how crease-resistant/soft it is. It's a 86% wool/6% cashmere/6% silk/2% nylon blend.

Right now, I'm considering Fresco mock leno (either 510243 navy or 510244 dark navy). However, I hear Fresco is a little scratchy/hard to touch. Is there anything a bit softer and more comfortable wearing? I'm also toying around with the idea of a tougher flannel (e.g. Drago Rugby Flannel). Maybe that isn't a wise decision as this is my first proper navy sport jacket though. I've been using my navy suit's jacket as an orphan odd jacket so far (it's a high-twist fabric), so I was hoping to make this one a bit different.

Thanks all.

I, too, love my Fresco mock leno jacket.
My sister went to Haas so I’ve spent some time in the Bay Area. If you’re looking for just one sports coat (blazer) I’d choose something a bit more versatile as the open weave makes it a warm weather jacket only. Especially accounting for the SF wind and cool summers.

 

[Moo Wenwu]

I, too, love my Fresco mock leno jacket.
My sister went to Haas so I’ve spent some time in the Bay Area. If you’re looking for just one sports coat (blazer) I’d choose something a bit more versatile as the open weave makes it a warm weather jacket only. Especially accounting for the SF wind and cool summers.

Thank you for the Bay Area perspective. I'm actually a bit more south-Bay Area. It's a bit warmer down here (at least usually), so maybe the open weave is good? On the other hand, I do have (non-navy) summer sport jackets already that wear cooler. Maybe I should prioritize making this a fall/winter jacket. Some food for thought — thanks!

 

[kolecho]

Thank you for the Bay Area perspective. I'm actually a bit more south-Bay Area. It's a bit warmer down here (at least usually), so maybe the open weave is good? On the other hand, I do have (non-navy) summer sport jackets already that wear cooler. Maybe I should prioritize making this a fall/winter jacket. Some food for thought — thanks!

I am going to do a special run of 400g Minnis heavy mockleno soon. Just waiting for the Rangoons to ship first. FYI.

 

[ericgereghty]

I am going to do a special run of 400g Minnis heavy mockleno soon. Just waiting for the Rangoons to ship first. FYI.

Oooooooo tell me more.

 

[kolecho]

Oooooooo tell me more.

It's in a shade of navy LOL.