Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Concordia]

Next time! I want to see how the unstructured tailoring works with the cotton first.

 

[Viatu]

Hello everyone. I'm looking at linen fabrics for a summer suit. I was introduced to Khaki Club fabrics recently. Anyone here have any experience with Khaki Club fabrics? Can anyone speak to their quality? What other fabric company would you liken them to?

 

[Stone]

Anyone have any experience with the Solbiati jacquard book?

https://www.solbiati.it/en/fabrics/jaquard.html

Wondering if it could work for a pair of pants and a shirt-jacket.

 

[jonathanS]

Even cotton seersucker wears warm. The Loro Piana silk and wool mare is the way to go.

That’s an awesome fabric - it’s on my bucket list.

 

[n2pua]

does anyone have a contact to purchase Solbiati's "art du lin" ?

(the S20 or newer book preferably)

 

[ericgereghty]

Hello everyone. I'm looking at linen fabrics for a summer suit. I was introduced to Khaki Club fabrics recently. Anyone here have any experience with Khaki Club fabrics? Can anyone speak to their quality? What other fabric company would you liken them to?

On first glance, I'm inclined to think it's just Dugdale.

 

[Viatu]

On first glance, I'm inclined to think it's just Dugdale.

Interesting.

 

[NorwRichard]

Have you had a look at W.Bill cords, I by chance saw the book in my Tailors shop today

Been out travelling for a week now, suspect my mailbox is full of samples!

 

[tim_horton]

Anyway, if anyone has experience with having a suit made in this kind of colour for this kind of very casual/multi season use, I'd be grateful to hear your thoughts on fabric types, fabric weights, and wool vs cotton.

I would not go with a worsted wool/open weave wool like theFoxAir, personally. It won't have the casual vibe you want and I think dark brown really shines in other fabric types that are less formal - flannel, linen, cotton, or cotton corduroy. Or linen-cotton blend.

I love cotton suits for their casual look and prefer them to linen. Linen-cotton blends can also be really nice and split the difference between the two. Corduroy is great but maybe not what I'd get for a first suit, and I think it might look a little out of place in warmer weather.

 

[Simon A]

Hi all.

Tailoring beginner seeking some advice on fabric choices. I am planning to have a MTM suit made in the next month or two, in a dark brown colour, to be pretty much exclusively worn in casual settings. The pictures below are pretty close to the styling I have in mind. The top image is closest in colour to what I would like.

In an ideal world, the suit would have 3 season usability (Autumn, Winter, Spring). I live in Tokyo, Japan, where between July and September, the weather is too hot and humid for me to wear a suit of any kind. Winters being generally speaking fairly mild here, I'd chuck a jumper or sweater underneath and overcoat over the top.

Tokyo from November to March is pretty cool, almost to freezing some nights. A mid-weight worsted flannel might be a good choice as it has a nice soft hand, and a mottled appearance that is more casual in appearance than a hard-finished worsted. The now-defunct Taylor and Lodge used to make good flannels of this type at a good price, around 400g, and Fox Brothers makes 300-400g worsted flannels at a very high price point.

There is some deadstock from Taylor and Lodge/Arthur Harrison still available here and there. I have a suit made of the same type of fabric, with a touch of grey mixed in with the brown, and it suits a climate like yours for autumn/winter/ spring just fine. There is a listing here of such deadstock.

 

[camez_]

4ply from rogna:

summer jacketing hopsack:

 

[DorianGreen]

4ply from rogna:

summer jacketing hopsack:

The twill looks great.

 

[DorianGreen]

The Cabrach Tweed by Woven in The Bone.

 

[Pumpkin Center]

In an ideal world, the suit would have 3 season usability (Autumn, Winter, Spring). I live in Tokyo, Japan, where between July and September, the weather is too hot and humid for me to wear a suit of any kind. Winters being generally speaking fairly mild here, I'd chuck a jumper or sweater underneath and overcoat over the top.

Tokyo from November to March is pretty cool, almost to freezing some nights. A mid-weight worsted flannel might be a good choice as it has a nice soft hand, and a mottled appearance that is more casual in appearance than a hard-finished worsted. The now-defunct Taylor and Lodge used to make good flannels of this type at a good price, around 400g, and Fox Brothers makes 300-400g worsted flannels at a very high price point.

There is some deadstock from Taylor and Lodge/Arthur Harrison still available here and there. I have a suit made of the same type of fabric, with a touch of grey mixed in with the brown, and it suits a climate like yours for autumn/winter/ spring just fine. There is a listing here of such deadstock.
View attachment 2150251

@Simon A, Thank you for sharing. I was searching over 12 months for this fabric. Happy I saw your post today. Regards,

 

[L.deJong]

4ply from rogna:

summer jacketing hopsack:

Never heard from Rogna, interesting cloth.
BTW ditch that Razer keyboard and get a proper one