Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[ckessani]

4 ply but a shade darker than you selected. View attachment 1803908 View attachment 1803909 View attachment 1803910

What seasons do you wear the drapers 4 ply/Can i get away with spring/fall/cooler days of summer? Im on tge east coast.

 

[ericgereghty]

What seasons do you wear the drapers 4 ply/Can i get away with spring/fall/cooler days of summer? Im on tge east coast.

Definitely.

 

[JohnMRobie]

What seasons do you wear the drapers 4 ply/Can i get away with spring/fall/cooler days of summer? Im on tge east coast.

100%. It’s about as versatile of a cloth as I’ve got. Mine is unlined and I’m planning to wear it this week when it’s 100 and humid but is heavy enough to be good down to 30 or so with no problems (unless it’s super windy and damp)

 

[Sreezy36]

100%. It’s about as versatile of a cloth as I’ve got. Mine is unlined and I’m planning to wear it this week when it’s 100 and humid but is heavy enough to be good down to 30 or so with no problems (unless it’s super windy and damp)

Mark from the Armoury highly recommends it as “3 season cloth.” Fyi, he is primarily based in Hong Kong so I am assuming they he is speaking in reference to that particular climate.

 

[thepelicanstyle]

Hey y'all! I'm new to this forum but felt like this community would be one of the best places to ask for help finding a cloth for a sport coat. I'm working with Divij Hemrajani from Divij Bespoke to create a brown and cream herringbone sport coat in the style of the Ralph Lauren RL67 coats and I'm having a hard time finding the perfect cloth. I'm somewhat new to the world of custom tailoring so I might be missing the best places to look for these types of fabrics.







I live in the South so ideally I'd like this to be a mid to lighter weight cloth. The listings on the Ralph Lauren website say it's an Italian Linen and Silk blend (which I think would be a good weight for this jacket) but the best option I've able to find is a Marling & Evans swatch (290g) that is close but not exactly what I'm looking for. I really like the thickness and contrast of the herringbone from Ralph Lauren (see pics below) and I don't think the M&E swatch has as much as I'd like.

Here is a picture of the M&E swatch that appears to be the best option right now and a pic of a coat made up in this cloth -





Thank you so much in advance! I'm happy to finally be in this group!

Tommy

 

[hpreston]

Hey y'all! I'm new to this forum but felt like this community would be one of the best places to ask for help finding a cloth for a sport coat. I'm working with Divij Hemrajani from Divij Bespoke to create a brown and cream herringbone sport coat in the style of the Ralph Lauren RL67 coats and I'm having a hard time finding the perfect cloth. I'm somewhat new to the world of custom tailoring so I might be missing the best places to look for these types of fabrics.



View attachment 1805114



I live in the South so ideally I'd like this to be a mid to lighter weight cloth. The listings on the Ralph Lauren website say it's an Italian Linen and Silk blend (which I think would be a good weight for this jacket) but the best option I've able to find is a Marling & Evans swatch (290g) that is close but not exactly what I'm looking for. I really like the thickness and contrast of the herringbone from Ralph Lauren (see pics below) and I don't think the M&E swatch has as much as I'd like.

Here is a picture of the M&E swatch that appears to be the best option right now and a pic of a coat made up in this cloth -





Thank you so much in advance! I'm happy to finally be in this group!

Tommy

The fabric Simon chose looks very nice.

I am sure others can chime with tons more fabric options, but I'll chime in with some direct experience (trying to recreate an OTR RL piece)
RL has all their fabrics made for them, while you may find something that comes close, you will not find an exact match.

If you really like that RL jacket, maybe just get the OTR version?

 

[classicalthunde]

Hey y'all! I'm new to this forum but felt like this community would be one of the best places to ask for help finding a cloth for a sport coat. I'm working with Divij Hemrajani from Divij Bespoke to create a brown and cream herringbone sport coat in the style of the Ralph Lauren RL67 coats and I'm having a hard time finding the perfect cloth. I'm somewhat new to the world of custom tailoring so I might be missing the best places to look for these types of fabrics.



View attachment 1805114



I live in the South so ideally I'd like this to be a mid to lighter weight cloth. The listings on the Ralph Lauren website say it's an Italian Linen and Silk blend (which I think would be a good weight for this jacket) but the best option I've able to find is a Marling & Evans swatch (290g) that is close but not exactly what I'm looking for. I really like the thickness and contrast of the herringbone from Ralph Lauren (see pics below) and I don't think the M&E swatch has as much as I'd like.

Here is a picture of the M&E swatch that appears to be the best option right now and a pic of a coat made up in this cloth -





Thank you so much in advance! I'm happy to finally be in this group!

Tommy

The RL jacket at the top appears to be a hearty tweed not a WSL mix...also it says lambswool/alpaca wool on the website, which tracks with it being a tweed. IMHO if you're going to do a herringbone sport coat like the first two images, it should be a chunky tweed so you can see the distinction of the different colors from a further distance so they don't resolve into one as is the case with the last two images.

Where in the South are you located? You could always get this made up for fall/winter rather than spring/summer and get something a bit heavier.

I think your best bet would be the Abraham Moon and Sons Shetland Tweed book, which clocks in at a very reasonable 370g/m. However, you should be able to find a similar pattern in a number of different books (although you may find more grey and white rather than brown and white):

Holland and Sherry - Sherry Tweed is 340g/m
W. Bill - Shetland Tweed is 390g/m
Porter and Harding - Harris Tweed is pretty light for HT at 440g/m
Harris Tweed and Knitwear has a wide variety of designs at a more robust 550g/m

I've had a couple pieces made up by Divij and have been very happy with them, he should have access to all of these with the exception of maybe Harris Tweed and Knitwear

 

[thepelicanstyle]

The fabric Simon chose looks very nice.

I am sure others can chime with tons more fabric options, but I'll chime in with some direct experience (trying to recreate an OTR RL piece)
RL has all their fabrics made for them, while you may find something that comes close, you will not find an exact match.

If you really like that RL jacket, maybe just get the OTR version?

Thank you for the reply! Yes,I love that fabric that Simon has. He said it was a vintage cloth that the tailor got for him in New York. It's very much the look I'm going for and is pretty similar (and better imo) than the OTR styles that RL has made. I have looked at the OTR versions but the color and style I like best seems to not be available anymore. Plus, since it's going to be a bit pricey either way, I'd rather spend the money to get it tailored to me.

Thanks for the suggestions! I am on the hunt online as we speak!

 

[thepelicanstyle]

The RL jacket at the top appears to be a hearty tweed not a WSL mix...also it says lambswool/alpaca wool on the website, which tracks with it being a tweed. IMHO if you're going to do a herringbone sport coat like the first two images, it should be a chunky tweed so you can see the distinction of the different colors from a further distance so they don't resolve into one as is the case with the last two images.

Where in the South are you located? You could always get this made up for fall/winter rather than spring/summer and get something a bit heavier.

I think your best bet would be the Abraham Moon and Sons Shetland Tweed book, which clocks in at a very reasonable 370g/m. However, you should be able to find a similar pattern in a number of different books (although you may find more grey and white rather than brown and white):

Holland and Sherry - Sherry Tweed is 340g/m
W. Bill - Shetland Tweed is 390g/m
Porter and Harding - Harris Tweed is pretty light for HT at 440g/m
Harris Tweed and Knitwear has a wide variety of designs at a more robust 550g/m

I've had a couple pieces made up by Divij and have been very happy with them, he should have access to all of these with the exception of maybe Harris Tweed and Knitwear

Great suggestions! Thank you! Yes, you're right about that grey RL one on the top being a tweed. I've looked at so many that I got the mixes confused - this similar one is the WSL mix. I actually do have the intention of making this jacket for fall/winter/ and early spring when it's still a bit cold but also don't want to get something so heavy that I can't wear it a lot. I'm in Louisiana where it can easily be 85-90 in December so I definitely don't want to get a really heavy robust tweed.

Since I'm kinda new to this, I've been a bit unsure of what weight would be too heavy. Would you have a recommendation for a range of weights for the Deep South? Most of my stuff right now is a hopsack or high twist so I wear it year round.

Thank you again!

 

[classicalthunde]

Great suggestions! Thank you! Yes, you're right about that grey RL one on the top being a tweed. I've looked at so many that I got the mixes confused - this similar one is the WSL mix. I actually do have the intention of making this jacket for fall/winter/ and early spring when it's still a bit cold but also don't want to get something so heavy that I can't wear it a lot. I'm in Louisiana where it can easily be 85-90 in December so I definitely don't want to get a really heavy robust tweed.

Since I'm kinda new to this, I've been a bit unsure of what weight would be too heavy. Would you have a recommendation for a range of weights for the Deep South? Most of my stuff right now is a hopsack or high twist so I wear it year round.

Thank you again!

Running hot or cold in a garment is a personal thing, as everyone has a different threshold and tolerance.

All things being equal, how tightly a fabric is woven plays a large roll...you can hold the samples from the books up to the light to judge, you'll be able to see if its dense or loosely woven (with denser probably holding heat better).

I have a jacket in the Abraham Moon Shetland and find I can wear it from Oct through April and its perfectly comfortable indoors during the days although it may be different for you if you're more sensitive to temps

 

[classicalthunde]

@thepelicanstyle if your dead set on silk/linen and a lighter summer-y one, you might want to check out this one:

https://www.bennett-silks.co.uk/silk-fabrics/fashion-fabrics/matka-and-suitings/herringbone-suiting-8011/1018-Otter/

 

[thepelicanstyle]

@thepelicanstyle if your dead set on silk/linen and a lighter summer-y one, you might want to check out this one:

https://www.bennett-silks.co.uk/silk-fabrics/fashion-fabrics/matka-and-suitings/herringbone-suiting-8011/1018-Otter/

Thank you for the recommendation ! that might be a good option - bookmarking it now!

 

[thepelicanstyle]

Running hot or cold in a garment is a personal thing, as everyone has a different threshold and tolerance.

All things being equal, how tightly a fabric is woven plays a large roll...you can hold the samples from the books up to the light to judge, you'll be able to see if its dense or loosely woven (with denser probably holding heat better).

I have a jacket in the Abraham Moon Shetland and find I can wear it from Oct through April and its perfectly comfortable indoors during the days although it may be different for you if you're more sensitive to temps

Good to know! I'll speak with Divij and maybe try to get some samples of some of the heavier ones to be able to see how tightly woven they are. Thank you!

 

[aristoi bcn]

Guys here tend not to like cotton suits but I love them and use them as separates as often as the full suit. I have the light tan/khaki and would like to add a couple more. I am set on the navy but hesitant on the third one. Military green is an option but probably a more tamed shade (very brownish undertones) might be more useful. What do you think?

 

[Polo Collar]

Hey y'all! I'm new to this forum but felt like this community would be one of the best places to ask for help finding a cloth for a sport coat. I'm working with Divij Hemrajani from Divij Bespoke to create a brown and cream herringbone sport coat in the style of the Ralph Lauren RL67 coats and I'm having a hard time finding the perfect cloth. I'm somewhat new to the world of custom tailoring so I might be missing the best places to look for these types of fabrics.







I live in the South so ideally I'd like this to be a mid to lighter weight cloth. The listings on the Ralph Lauren website say it's an Italian Linen and Silk blend (which I think would be a good weight for this jacket) but the best option I've able to find is a Marling & Evans swatch (290g) that is close but not exactly what I'm looking for. I really like the thickness and contrast of the herringbone from Ralph Lauren (see pics below) and I don't think the M&E swatch has as much as I'd like.

Here is a picture of the M&E swatch that appears to be the best option right now and a pic of a coat made up in this cloth -





Thank you so much in advance! I'm happy to finally be in this group!

Tommy

I ordered a jacket in Marling Evans wool linen herringbone fabric recently as well. The Color are much lighter than the RL one you want to replicate, and wear much warmer than you imagine (bad for someone lives in a sub tropical city).