Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[heldentenor]

@dieworkwear any herringbone tweeds that you think have an appropriate scale? I know there was a discussion of old LL tweed, but it seems that is no longer production and it seems that all the major books are pretty similar at least according to digital images on their website

Also, @jonathanS the Armoury image below is where i got the idea for the charcoal separates (although the jacket in the image seems to have a slightly different texture).

Jonathan is wearing a green donegal in that pic. Still endorse the grey herringbone check, but having had three different iterations of it and rejected all of them, the scale should be big and the cloth darker than you think you need.

 

[heldentenor]

I'm planning to get a grey Donegal suit this year, which will probably be worn as separates. I think a grey herringbone is fine, although it's hard to find one that has a nice scale to the pattern.

You can wear grey tweed jackets with tan cav twill, brown whipcord, and blue jeans.


View attachment 1335353

What cloth for the suit, Derek? I've long thought grey donegal tweed-ish is even better than brown for a casual but awesome suit.

 

[circumspice]

I used to agree about grey jackets, though I have recently made a couple for guys who wear them a lot with jeans and it makes sense. Its hard to wear a navy jacket with dark denim and grey is easy to pair. I am getting more comfortable with this lately.

I believe a grey herringbone jacket is actually more versatile for FW than a navy sport coat because it works better with jeans. I have a couple blue to navy coats that work SS or SSF, but I haven't been compelled to get something FW appropriate

Edit versus adding another reply - I think a grey donegal suit is risky if the plan is to primarily wear it as separates. I fear you will find it just resolves to too solid of a grey for the coat to have much utility on its own. Blue,brown or green donegals probably have more utility as separates, but I am also sympathetic that a green or brown donegal suit is a bit of a statement piece versus fading into the background...

 

[Despos]

Make any purple jackets lately?

@lordsuperb
Was saving this for you dear!

 

[Patrick R]

My most useful piece of clothing is the gray herringbone sport coat @Despos made for me. Period.

 

[The Chai]

@lordsuperb
Was saving this for you dear!

I'm thinking of a purple spence bryson linen coat somewhere down the line...

 

[zr3rs]

Charcoal Flannel - haven't felt it yet, but really like look the Fox Bros classic charcoal woollen flannel. Are there any more moderately priced English flannel alternatives in the 13/14oz range I should consider?

I cannot imagine charcoal flannel being worn as separate. But I can highly recommend the Fox classic herringbone https://www.themerchantfox.co.uk/co...products/400g-fox-flannel-classic-herringbone
As a separate, I would probably look for a bit larger pattern, but it drapes great (I have it as trousers) and it is soft, if you prefer flannel.

I have tried the Slate grey gunclub check as an odd jacket and was not convinced by most of the combinations (did not try it with denim). I added the matching trousers and it makes an absolutely great suit.

I can also recommend SherryTweed, its advantage is the lighter weight compared to the Harris, and so far it has held up very well, but can be worn even into summer.

 

[The Chai]

I’m considering a chocolate black herringbone alpaca 4x1 triple patch db

 

[zr3rs]

If anyone is interested in a 2,5m length of the new Fox tweed, let me know. It is blue/tan, but resolves to a gray in the distance. Should pair well with denim. I actually found it a little bit too soft for a tweed.

 

[dieworkwear]

What cloth for the suit, Derek? I've long thought grey donegal tweed-ish is even better than brown for a casual but awesome suit.

Actually hoping to score a length of vintage Donegal from a store in Palermo. I don't know the original mill, unfortunately. Peter can be seen wearing the same fabric here. I saw the fabric in real life and thought it did well as a sport coat, but will get a full suit just for kicks.

 

[lordsuperb]

@lordsuperb
Was saving this for you dear!

Is this from your own private stash?!?!?

 

[Despos]

Is this from your own private stash?!?!?

Yes, it’s from the Sherry Tweed collection zr mentioned a few posts above

 

[lordsuperb]

@Despos you have exquisite taste, we are simpatico!!!!

 

[DavidLane]

I recently funded a SC in a gray/charcoal Harris Tweed. I think this will look great with jeans, tan and light brown whipcords as @dieworkwear mentioned. As well as khakis, light olive canvas, and even light gray flannels.

-DL

 

[reidd]

If you're going to do grey odd jacket, I agree larger scale pattern and more textured (or donegal) yarn = better. Can't imagine plain or even small scale herringbone flannel working that well. I've seen others wear it OK but it doesn't do much for me.

I also must disagree about navy blazers and blue jeans. I personally love this look both with smoother and more textured blazer cloths, either with dark blue or faded denim. Blue on blue is just so much more forgiving than a grey jacket on anything.