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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Patrick R

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I just picked up a pair from Todd Shelton - which I mention because of the ability to customize the rise. Mine have an extra 1.5” of rise, next time I’ll back that down to 1”.
All of mine (except one) are ¾" higher in rise than standard. I have one pair that is standard rise that Todd asked me to try out so he could get feedback on how important the ability to customize rise is. My feedback is that I find the rise to be the one detail that is most important in whether I am comfortable in my jeans. I have pairs from Todd that are (intentionally) looser or tighter along the seat and/or legs to fill different roles in my closet, but getting the rise perfect on each pair is what made me switch over to Todd's jeans exclusively.
 

Mr. Six

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At what point or number does one say they have a lot of stuff and can move outside the range of versatility? From what you've described the jacket already sounds like a versatile piece. I would have no problem wearing a grey sport coat as my first jacket.
The answer to all such questions is 11, right?

I have a pretty regular schedule of client-facing meetings at which a suit or sport coat is appropriate. For me, I could move beyond versatility once I had enough of each that I could be comfortable that I had a solid rotation to fill the schedule without obvious repetition. At that point I felt like I could get stuff that I just thought was interesting--still usable in those contexts but more unusual and not something that would be part of the regular rotation. My office has also become more casual, so a sport coat that I don't wear with odd trousers but not a tie has utility for me than it might not for someone else.

What's not versatile to me about a grey sport coat is that, although it obviously can be worn with a tie, I haven't seen many examples that I've liked. On the other hand, it does work well with jeans and a casual shirt. A blue/navy sport coat, on the other hand, is easy to wear with a tie. Whether it works with jeans seems to depend a lot on taste and the particular jeans. (IMO Ralph always looks good like that, but I don't otherwise love blue jackets with blue denim.)
 

WillingToLearn

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lordsuperb

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The answer to all such questions is 11, right?

I have a pretty regular schedule of client-facing meetings at which a suit or sport coat is appropriate. For me, I could move beyond versatility once I had enough of each that I could be comfortable that I had a solid rotation to fill the schedule without obvious repetition. At that point I felt like I could get stuff that I just thought was interesting--still usable in those contexts but more unusual and not something that would be part of the regular rotation. My office has also become more casual, so a sport coat that I don't wear with odd trousers but not a tie has utility for me than it might not for someone else.

What's not versatile to me about a grey sport coat is that, although it obviously can be worn with a tie, I haven't seen many examples that I've liked. On the other hand, it does work well with jeans and a casual shirt. A blue/navy sport coat, on the other hand, is easy to wear with a tie. Whether it works with jeans seems to depend a lot on taste and the particular jeans. (IMO Ralph always looks good like that, but I don't otherwise love blue jackets with blue denim.)
Knit ties? They're my go to these days if I do wear a tie with a sport coat.
 

ericgereghty

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What's are some of the preferred non-flannel F/W suiting cloths? All things considered, I'd prefer fabrics that skew more casual to avoid looking too business-y a la super slick worsteds.

Harrison's P&B looks to have some intriguing options 🧐
 

RogerC

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I like a Donegal tweed. Harrison Thornproof and Sherry Tweed have some nice options.
 

Bromley

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Corduroy. Certain heavy cottons are great. Pretty much anything in Holland & Sherry's Dakota bunch.
 

Bromley

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I know it comes up here every once in a while, but does anybody know of any sources for good bleeding madras?
 

ericgereghty

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I like a Donegal tweed. Harrison Thornproof and Sherry Tweed have some nice options.
Interesting regarding the Sherry Tweed. I'd thought I'd read that was primarily intended for jacketing? Would you think both Thornproof weights could hack it as suiting, or strictly the heavier, 18oz weight?
Corduroy. Certain heavy cottons are great. Pretty much anything in Holland & Sherry's Dakota bunch.
I have an irrational disdain for cotton tailoring. Can't see myself utilizing it at any point in the near future.
 

Bespoke DJP

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Corduroy. Certain heavy cottons are great. Pretty much anything in Holland & Sherry's Dakota bunch.
I have an irrational disdain for cotton tailoring. Can't see myself utilizing it at any point in the near future.

How about putting some cashmere in the mix?

It would considerably improve the quality and hand of the cloth, while at the same time it would render the garment far more luxurious, making it worthwhile for a bespoke project!

Best,

Dimitris
 

imatlas

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Zegna’s “Cashco” is amazing.
 

Mr. Six

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Knit ties? They're my go to these days if I do wear a tie with a sport coat.
Yep. Although, I confess that I don't love silk knits or flat bottoms. Cotton and cashmere knits with pointed ends are great. I still wear other ties with sport coats, though.
 

Mr. Six

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What's are some of the preferred non-flannel F/W suiting cloths? All things considered, I'd prefer fabrics that skew more casual to avoid looking too business-y a la super slick worsteds.

Harrison's P&B looks to have some intriguing options 🧐
Definitely P&B and the heavier Lesser.
 

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