Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[classicalthunde]

I think weight is less significant than people think. A 12oz. flannel will wear warmer than a 14oz tweed and warmer than a 20oz hopsack. The nap and tightness of the weave of the cloth is a more important factor than weight. I have trousers in 22oz Dugdale Cavalry Twill that I am fine with wearing in 60 degrees (F). I could never wear my 14oz. Flannels in anything over 30 degrees (F)

Having said that my latest tweed is 22oz and should be great through the late fall and winter, mind you it gets very cold in Upstate NY.

DL-

curious to hear where twill fits into the spectrum...

 

[smittycl]

Cashmere sport coats. Battistoni, Caruso, and Zegna. I get lots of use out of these in the winter. Granted the first two are very similar. Can’t seem to part with either.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

curious to hear where twill fits into the spectrum...

Twill wears cool.

 

[ericgereghty]

Cashmere is awesome. Clearly not particularly durable, but awesome nonetheless.
A tad ironic, given that I HATE when people touch my clothing, but it does attract that sort of attention.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Cashmere is for scarfs and sweaters.

 

[lordsuperb]

Cashmere is for scarfs and sweaters.

And purple jackets!!!

 

[smittycl]

I forgot my cashmere top coat from Sartorio. Very dark navy and works very well with a tux or a suit for more formal occasions. It’s very fine so I don’t wear it daily in the winter.

 

[Easily Amused]

And purple jackets!!!

Can you show us any examples of this?

 

[lordsuperb]

Can you show us any examples of this?

Use your imagination....

Spoiler: swatch

 

[dan'l]

WRT ideal cloth weights for a winter SC, for me it’s 14 to 20 oz (380-550g). I don’t run “hot,” but find anything above 20 oz looks too rustic and like hunting tweeds. I guess as semi-outerwear it’d be ok, but for the office it feels just to heavy.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Does anybody know the definitive answer to what the difference between gabardine, serge, and twill is? I think one of them shows twill on the warp side, but not on the weft, but I don't know which one. Maybe @Despos ?

 

[The Chai]

Does anybody know the definitive answer to what the difference between gabardine, serge, and twill is? I think one of them shows twill on the warp side, but not on the weft, but I don't know which one. Maybe @Despos ?

Twill is the genus and serge/gabardine is the species. Gabardine and serge are technically twills

 

[patrickBOOTH]

What about cavalry twill? How is that technically different from gabardine and serge.

 

[The Chai]

What about cavalry twill? How is that technically different from gabardine and serge.

Off the top of my head...serge and cav twills have a rougher and raised finish whereas gabardine has a smoother and unraised finish

 

[patrickBOOTH]

what about serge? is it all bs?