Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[The Chai]

I think it stemmed from trying to make the perfect shoes from it.

I didn’t agree with his one shoe idea...but my ‘one shoe’ would be a pair of black penny loafers which is unorthodox

 

[amiga505]

well, let me brag a bit too...

1. CHARLES CLAYTON Charcoal Grey Super 140's Wool & Cashmere flannel:

this one is intended for winter odd trousers.

2. Tan-white seersucker from Huddersfield Fine Worsteds:

also for odd trousers, but, obviously, for summer...

3. Tweed out of Scotland, exact mill not specified:

fall-winter sport coat is the intention here.

as it is highly likely that I will be traveling to India on business in August, the plan is to get all the garments stitched in Mumbai. there is a tailor who did a pretty good job on a pair of trousers for me before, so I am not really concerned about that. I will however need to explore a bit more as far as the sport coat is concerned, since the same tailor made a really nice fitting and sharp looking coat for me, big disadvantage being that it is fused throughout. truth be told, we did not discuss the interlining specifically. as this was the linen blend summer coat, I automatically assumed he will make it completely unstructured, so I can't tell, perhaps he can make full canvas garments as well. as said, I will need to explore.

 

[The Chai]

well, let me brag a bit too...

1. CHARLES CLAYTON Charcoal Grey Super 140's Wool & Cashmere flannel:

View attachment 1199759

View attachment 1199760

this one is intended for winter odd trousers.

2. Tan-white seersucker from Huddersfield Fine Worsteds:

View attachment 1199761

also for odd trousers, but, obviously, for summer...

3. Tweed out of Scotland, exact mill not specified:

View attachment 1199762

View attachment 1199763

fall-winter sport coat is the intention here.

as it is highly likely that I will be traveling to India on business in August, the plan is to get all the garments stitched in Mumbai. there is a tailor who did a pretty good job on a pair of trousers for me before, so I am not really concerned about that. I will however need to explore a bit more as far as the sport coat is concerned, since the same tailor made a really nice fitting and sharp looking coat for me, big disadvantage being that it is fused throughout. truth be told, we did not discuss the interlining specifically. as this was the linen blend summer coat, I automatically assumed he will make it completely unstructured, so I can't tell, perhaps he can make full canvas garments as well. as said, I will need to explore.

Could you keep me posted on how the Charles Clayton flannel performs. I have been abit on the fence for it as it’s durability concerns me

 

[amiga505]

on a separate note... any advice on the shoes to go with the grey flannel fabric mentioned above? will brown do? I am having my doubts... and which brown exactly? I am presently evaluating following options:

1. Cobbler Union:

2. Loding:

3. MTO from Winson Shoes Indonesia:

 

[amiga505]

Could you keep me posted on how the Charles Clayton flannel performs. I have been abit on the fence for it as it’s durability concerns me

will do... although winter is far away, it is surely coming...

 

[The Chai]

on a separate note... any advice on the shoes to go with the grey flannel fabric mentioned above? will brown do? I am having my doubts... and which brown exactly? I am presently evaluating following options:

1. Cobbler Union:

View attachment 1199764

2. Loding:

View attachment 1199768

3. MTO from Winson Shoes Indonesia:

View attachment 1199774

Black loafers ??? but no seriously black loafers

 

[amiga505]

surprisingly, I don't have a single pair of black shoes in my possession right now... I do have one on the to-buy list, but these will be black cap-toe oxfords to accommodate a possible formal occasion. that's it... frankly, a black winter boot is a bit hard to stomach for me, at least currently...

 

[The Chai]

surprisingly, I don't have a single pair of black shoes in my possession right now... I do have one on the to-buy list, but these will be black cap-toe oxfords to accommodate a possible formal occasion. that's it... frankly, a black winter boot is a bit hard to stomach for me, at least currently...

I think I have at least four black winter boots. I have more black shoes than brown

 

[smittycl]

Black Chelsea boots are quite versatile. Good for dress or casual. Also have a pair of lace up black boots that look like cap-toe oxfords. Great for cold, sloppy weather.

 

[The Chai]

Black Chelsea boots are quite versatile. Good for dress or casual. Also have a pair of lace up black boots that look like cap-toe oxfords. Great for cold, sloppy weather.

I have a pair of lace up boots but these days I cbf putting them on. I’m experimenting with a pair of black Chelsea’s for black tie. I know back in the day they were a thing but I’m trying to device one in thin soles so I can dance in them

 

[amiga505]

thank you gentlemen, you give me something to think about... as mentioned, didn't mean to hijack the thread...

 

[usctrojans31]

I have had transparency and quality issues with Riva too. It makes up a beautiful shirt for yachting and the like, but as I don't yacht (anyone in this thread who wants to invite me yachting, please DM me), I found it not worth the price.

Glad that it's worked for others, but it certainly did not for me.

 

[losrockets]

Thoughts on the Classic II collection from HFW? I'm trying to MTM a staple navy suit. While I currently live in TX this would largely be worn indoors anyway so I'm okay with the 340/370g weight if the trade-off is drape, appearance, and durability. Going through Spier & Mackay and of the books they offer, the HFW collections are closest to my budget.

Also, is there anything along the lines of a mock leno type fabric in dark brown from the major mills? Thanks in advance!

 

[The Chai]

Will

Thoughts on the Classic II collection from HFW? I'm trying to MTM a staple navy suit. While I currently live in TX this would largely be worn indoors anyway so I'm okay with the 340/370g weight if the trade-off is drape, appearance, and durability. Going through Spier & Mackay and of the books they offer, the HFW collections are closest to my budget.

Also, is there anything along the lines of a mock leno type fabric in dark brown from the major mills? Thanks in advance!

william Halstead has a brown mohair mockleno fabric on their online website pepper lee in their jacketing section

 

[L.deJong]

Thoughts on the Classic II collection from HFW? I'm trying to MTM a staple navy suit. While I currently live in TX this would largely be worn indoors anyway so I'm okay with the 340/370g weight if the trade-off is drape, appearance, and durability. Going through Spier & Mackay and of the books they offer, the HFW collections are closest to my budget.

Also, is there anything along the lines of a mock leno type fabric in dark brown from the major mills? Thanks in advance!

HFW has a broad range of Mock leno (if I'm not mistaken it's in their fresco book).

Classic II is a great fabric. Drapes well, holds a crease pretty decently and the wrinkles fade away like ice in front of the sun.
Durability-wise I cannot tell you my experience, my suit is only one year old.