Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Concordia]

In an ideal world, you'd keep the wrinkles to get maximum mobility, but stuff them under your arm where nobody could see them. I don't know if there is some alchemy that will accomplish that task here.

 

[Alan Bee]

In an ideal world, you'd keep the wrinkles to get maximum mobility, but stuff them under your arm where nobody could see them. I don't know if there is some alchemy that will accomplish that task here.

@Concordia

Thanks for prompt response. So leave the folds as is and hope for the best after steaming the garments?

The front of the coat yielded desired result. Less suppression and more relaxed look. But I’m a bit irked by the folds in the back having been accustomed to a clean back.

Alan Bee

 

[Concordia]

I don't know if steaming or proper pressing will fix it.

There might need to be some rearrangement on the shoulder seams, for all I know.

If you trust your tailor, you could ask him.

 

[Alan Bee]

I don't know if steaming or proper pressing will fix it.

There might need to be some rearrangement on the shoulder seams, for all I know.

If you trust your tailor, you could ask him.

Thanks @Concordia

The shipping back and forth to Italy gets wearying and I'm trying to avoid another round of it if I can. He's happy to take some fabric out of the back but warns that I'd lose some freedom and room in the back of the coat.

FYI , the garments haven't been pressed properly or steamed. Just out of the shipping box.

Alan Bee

 

[Alan Bee]

On some of the spongier fabrics, it’s not as noticeable. Both Smith Lamlana. Previous fabrics are lighter (Lesser 8/9) and Barbera for Lesser tropical wool.

Alan Bee

 

[lordsuperb]

Thanks @Concordia

The shipping back and forth to Italy gets wearying and I'm trying to avoid another round of it if I can. He's happy to take some fabric out of the back but warns that I'd lose some freedom and room in the back of the coat.

FYI , the garments haven't been pressed properly or steamed. Just out of the shipping box.

Alan Bee

On some of the spongier fabrics, it’s not as noticeable. Both Smith Lamlana. Previous fabrics are lighter (Lesser 8/9) and Barbera for Lesser tropical wool.

Alan Bee View attachment 927126 View attachment 927127 View attachment 927128 View attachment 927129

Just wear the jackets and see how they break in.

 

[WillingToLearn]

That's fine. Don't join or subscribe to the cloths. No worries.

Thanks, I don't and I won't, but I will continue to comment, both positively and negatively, on cloth posted here, especially by those posting with commercial interests.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear @Alan Bee,

As we all know, a lot of things/situations in life incorporate a trade-off; I can understand your aim but to my eyes the "new" back is plain wrong, does not do justice to a bespoke garment.

Of course, I am no tailor I am just enjoying - as a customer - the sartorial journey for the past 18 years now.

Best,

Dimitris

 

[Andy57]

Thanks @Concordia

The shipping back and forth to Italy gets wearying and I'm trying to avoid another round of it if I can. He's happy to take some fabric out of the back but warns that I'd lose some freedom and room in the back of the coat.

FYI , the garments haven't been pressed properly or steamed. Just out of the shipping box.

Alan Bee

Having the jackets pressed properly does make a difference. My own experience bears this out. My advice would be to have them pressed and, as Lord Superb advises, wear them for a little while and see how they settle in.

Frankly, though, I don't think the backs are going to look as clean as you are used to.

 

[Andy57]

Thanks, I don't and I won't, but I will continue to comment, both positively and negatively, on cloth posted here, especially by those posting with commercial interests.

Wouldn't have it any other way. Who posts with commercial interests?

 

[UrbanComposition]

Having the jackets pressed properly does make a difference. My own experience bears this out. My advice would be to have them pressed and, as Lord Superb advises, wear them for a little while and see how they settle in.

Frankly, though, I don't think the backs are going to look as clean as you are used to.

This. I always err on the side of comfort, though, so I end up with a few wrinkles in the back near the blades. Also, more fabric out of the sleevehead made a huge difference in mobility for me.

 

[dieworkwear]

In an ideal world, you'd keep the wrinkles to get maximum mobility, but stuff them under your arm where nobody could see them. I don't know if there is some alchemy that will accomplish that task here.

Isn't essentially back drape?

 

[Alan Bee]

Dear @Alan Bee,

As we all know, a lot of things/situations in life incorporate a trade-off; I can understand your aim but to my eyes the "new" back is plain wrong, does not do justice to a bespoke garment.

Of course, I am no tailor I am just enjoying - as a customer - the sartorial journey for the past 18 years now.

Best,

Dimitris

Thanks Dimitris. They definitely feel more comfortable and roomier than the last cut. But yes, the vertical wrinkles itch my eyes.

Let’s see what happens after a good press.

Alan Bee

 

[Alan Bee]

Isn't essentially back drape?

View attachment 927202

Looks very nice.

One option could be letting out the waist so the drop from upper back to waist isn’t as severe and making it more uniform. But again, I’d be swimming in the waist. Large drop tailoring problems ...

What’s your view @dieworkwear ?

The jacket above has less suppression than mine.

AB

 

[Alan Bee]

Here is exactly the same new cut/pattern but in sturdy Irish linen. The problem is replicated only on the lighter weight fabrics.

AB