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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    How durable is gabardine? I love the hand and how it holds a good crease, but I remember having a pair of gab trousers (cheap ones) in college that wore away at the seat in no time.
     
  2. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Use this test for gabs. The good ones have diagonal / twill weave on the face of the cloth and the same identical diagonal weave on the back. Cheap gabs show a diagonal weave on the face of the cloth and show a plain weave pattern on the back. Plain weave shows the yarns running parallel, 90* angles and not diagonal.
     
  3. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Senior member

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    Thanks, Chris. That's good to know.
     
  4. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    I normally wear away trousers very quickly, but my BB gabardines are holding up very well.
     
  5. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This is good to know. Thanks!
     
  6. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Senior member

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    Just paid the balance, so I guess no longer unfunded...
    Slewfoot's special, quarter lined, pants will be fitted net weekend:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    3 people like this.
  7. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Yay! Great to see it in action. Look forward to seeing the finished product.
     
  8. badsha

    badsha Senior member

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    Slewfoot this is the tobacco fresco special order? NICE!!!
     
  9. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    That's wonderful. I'm taking mine to Hong Kong next month, with similar specs (patch, 2r3, etc.). I have the impression it is a bit more orangey in real life, though. Now, what shoes to wear with this?
     
  10. Svenn

    Svenn Senior member

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    Question for you Chris- I was told that twills are the superior weave for draping cleanly over the body, avoiding ripples, and generally laying straight and 'suit-like' over the body... is this correct? Is there any weave better? I have indeed noticed my tweeds and plain fabrics get a bit frumply relative to my cavalry twill, but I'm not sure if this is due more to weight and thickness rather than weave.
     
  11. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    A unfortunate noob question:

    Anyone who could tell me some sources to buy fabrics in the internet?

    I am in search for a batch of french navy suting fabric, possible in good names, 10-12oz wool and cashmere mix and around £200 for five meters.

    Is ebay trustworthy for that?

    thanks for any member's time.
     
  12. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    Go Dugdale Brothers, good quality, great bang for the buck. Also, think about why you want cashmere in here. It may be a bit softer, but if not top quality, will also be less hard-wearing.
     
  13. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Thanks for the suggestion, I had registered with them and forgot this completely...

    For my preference, I like the softer drape of the mix plus I don't really need an absolute durable cloth, I need something nice, and I have a good rotation anyway so it is not a problem
     
  14. Renton

    Renton Senior member

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    Looks good, but it only makes me wish I had seen the group buy in time.
     
  15. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

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    Did your tailor use black canvas or regular white-ish canvas?
     
  16. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Senior member

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    Don't know, forgot to ask, I will when I'm back next weekend.
     
  17. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    on the side view there is a small blackish colored material showing at the gorge, may be the black hymo.

    NYR, you are wearing cut offs with rolled up hem with dress shirt and tie for your fitting. Just so you know, everything gets noticed here.

    Ask Frank to raise the collar in back 1/4 or 3/8". Maybe he already did.
     
  18. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Senior member

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    Shorts were old trousers so no biggy, as for the "respect your tailor" angle, Frank isn't like that...its actually one of the reasons I like using him. He knows I respect him because i keep coming back!
     
  19. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not this, "respect your tailor". It's hard to see and judge proportions with shorts, at least for me. Throws everything off to my eye, especially on the fitting when you are trying to assess changes. Maybe not on the second fitting, if that's what this pic is.
    If a client is not wearing a collared dress shirt, I get him one to try on because it's hard to see the shoulder and collar fit with just a t shirt under the jacket.

    Jacket looks great.
     
  20. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Senior member

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    Yea, I think we're beyond that. He has made me over 10 jackets thus far. I will always wear a collared shirt and tie for a fitting though...Thanks!
     

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