Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. inkwretch

    inkwretch Well-Known Member

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    I had a three patch made from that blue window pane. I was afraid it might be a bit loud, since it's actually triple window pane, but I feel comfortable in it now. The guys at TT told me they thought it was Loro Piana. They burned some of it with a match and concluded it was a linen/silk blend. They kind of cracked me up. When I asked them for the mill for various cloths they seemed to just be throwing out names without really knowing. BTW, this material is so loosely woven that you have to be careful with the lining. I got it self lined in front. But the white lining in the sleeves actually shows through and makes the cloth look shiny, which it's not. But my tailor said dark sleeve lining would make the sleeves look darker than the body. I'll try to post a photo.
     
  2. tim_horton

    tim_horton Senior member

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    Can anyone recommend a source for lightweight pick-and-pick fabric (somehwere in the neighborhood of 8 oz.)?
     
  3. GiltEdge

    GiltEdge Senior member

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    pick by pick? You mean a tickweave?
     
  4. tim_horton

    tim_horton Senior member

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    Pick-and-pick is also known as sharkskin. I've never heard of it referred to as pick by pick or tickweave. Here's a thread on it.
     
  5. MORNINGSTAR777

    MORNINGSTAR777 Senior member

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    FIFY

    I am an alum...

    Thinking about going to Tip Top soon. I live around the corner from the G stop and it would be a short ride.
     
  6. andyw

    andyw Senior member

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    Beckensteins is at 257 West 39th St.between 7th and 8th Avenues on the north side of the street closer to 8th Ave., also known as the Fabric Czar. There is a bespoke tailoring operation on the mezzanine run by the former head fitter from Paul Stuart.

    Mood Fabrics is the place the FIT and Parsons students go to and made famous on TV. The selection is weak for men's tailoring but I have found excellent linings and coatings here. 225 West 37th St., the men's fabrics are on the 3rd floor.

    When in this part of town, I stop into B&J Fabrics at 525 Seventh Avenue @ 39th St..They have a decent selection, better than Mood but less so than Beckenstein. The service is excellent here. Roberto and Bopa are wonderful.

    None of these garment district survivors can compare to Tiptop for the range of fabric or price. But going bespoke is all about the fun of sourcing the materials and the endless possibilities.

    If you are in the garment district, check out C & C Buttons at 230 West 38th Street, they have an excellent selection of horn, leather, artisanal, rustic, bone buttons in a wide range of colors for tailored clothing. Not as deep a selection as Tender Buttons but same quality at about half the cost.
     
  7. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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  8. GiltEdge

    GiltEdge Senior member

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    I never heard anyone either from a mill or retail call it pick-by-pick. I am used to a totally different lingo than most people. For example "nail head" pisses me off. I was taught to never use that term. Most people think a birdseyes, pin dot, and tickweave are all "nail heads." They are not able to differentiate them. Today a customer referred to all three of those as nailheads.
     
  9. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Pick-and-pick is basically an interchangeable term for sharkskin. Tickweave is something else.
     
  10. academe

    academe Senior member

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    I'm a little confused by what you're trying to say here. Two of the tailors I use refer to pick-and-pick's as well...err...pick-and-pick's? What else would you call that weave?

    Perhaps you should spend more time educating your unschooled customers in the correct terminology, rather than getting irritated by it? Surely patience is required in the customer service industry?
     
  11. academe

    academe Senior member

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    Fun stuff; next time I'm at the other end of the country I'll have to pay them a visit...
     
  12. scruff

    scruff Senior member

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    I appreciate the the insight. They may have said LP rather than Zegna; who knows. I take most of the mill names they throw around with a massive grain of salt. I was hard-pressed to pass the length up, though, since he threw the whole thing at me for $50, and, at the time, I was looking for something loose and spongy. Good advice re: lining. I may get the sleeves lined in a dull cotton that's near the same color as the cloth, but don't know how practical this will be. I'll get my tailor's 2 cents on this. Would love to see a photo if you can dig one up.
     
  13. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    All the SR tailors use the term Pick & Pick.
     
  14. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    Here you go again.....:facepalm:
     
  15. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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    Yep... It doesn't really matter anyway as long as the fabric looks good.
     

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