Tuxedo help...

[WiseMenOfGotham]

Hello,

I'm looking for my first tuxedo to wear to social functions and perhaps to future weddings. My budget is $3.5k. I'm considering Kent Wang's MTM option to try a peak lapel, one button, roped shoulder tuxedo (similar to the one that Daniel Craig wore in Casino Royale). I am in the medical field, so my clothing can have a little style but should border more on the side of classic.

Also, I came across this Tom Ford tuxedo that has a peak lapel, but is two button. It will need some alterations (reduce chest, take out the roll in the upper back, a bit more waist suppression, take in the waist of the pants). The peak is a bit extravagant, but the asking price is very affordable, which is why I'm considering it.

My measurements are as follows:

Jacket
-Shoulder seam to seam: 19"
-Pitt-to-Pitt (Chest): 21.5"
-Waist: 20"
-Length: 29.5"

Trousers
-Waist 16.5
-Rise 10.5"
-Thigh 12"
-Knee 9.5"
-Leg Opening 8.25"

I usually purchase a 42S or 44S, depending on how the cut of the jacket accommodates my shoulders. For trousers, I go for 32 or 34, depending on how they fit my larger than average posterior. Thank you for your advice, it is greatly appreciated.

 

[msulinski]

How much is that Tom Ford? For a budget of 3.5k, there is no way I would go OTR (especially for a 2-button). You should be able to get a very good MTM tuxedo for less than half that with all of the options you want.

Would this be your first MTM? If so, I might recommend doing MTM in-person as opposed to mail order with photographs. At the very least, get a competent local tailor to work with you on the Kent Wang MTM.

 

[WiseMenOfGotham]

The Tom Ford tuxedo comes out to about $2300 after taxes and alterations. I've tried MTM in the past, the measurements are directly from my clothing. I have a local tailor and another tailor at my local Neiman Marcus (the TF tuxedo is from NM). I find that I have better results with OTR after my local tailor's adjustments than with my past MTM experiences. I still had to get some alterations done on my MTM pieces by my local tailor.

Another option would be Napoli Su Misura in NYC or WW Chan. I travel to NYC often, but need to work it into my schedule. What brands do you suggest?

 

[DJosef]

I'm not a huge expert on evening wear, but that tuxedo looks hauntingly like a suit jacket. It just doesn't feel all that classic or even all that tuxedo to me with that color and that silhouette. And why not a shawl lapel?

EDIT: Sorry I meant the second one. Not that I particularly like the first one either, maybe it's the photo and the lighting, but is that charcoal grey or black? If I was out for my first tuxedo, I'd definitely go for pitch black.

 

[rob]

I think it looks like a very traditional tux. Peaked lapels, satin facings, covered buttons, besom pockets. Don't follow DJ's comments regarding the color (black on my screen) or silhouette.

That said, with that budget, I would go with a bespoke option.

Rob

 

[DJosef]

I think it looks like a very traditional tux. Peaked lapels, satin facings, covered buttons, besom pockets. Don't follow DJ's comments regarding the color (black on my screen) or silhouette.
That said, with that budget, I would go with a bespoke option.
Rob

Maybe it's just my screen, but the bottom photo borders on light grey here.
As for the silhouette, I think the first one has a nice shape that the second seems to lack, then again that may be solved by alterations.

 

[WiseMenOfGotham]

Shawl is an option, I just find that peak lapels look better on my wider shoulders. The two pictures above are the same Tom Ford tuxedo, the color is very washed out (Blackberry camera). That TF tuxedo is a traditional black with satin facings. The only thing that's not completely traditional about it is that it's a 2 button, versus 1 button.

Who do you recommend for bespoke? I've included a picture of the Casino Royale tuxedo that I had in mind in my original post. I find that the Tom Ford silhouette works for me because it was designed to accommodate individuals with a large drop. My actual chest and waist measurements are 43"and 33", so it would need some alterations to fit better.

Finally, do you feel that the Kent Wang MTM offers more bang for the buck than other bespoke options in my budget?

 

[unbelragazzo]

Get thyself to Mina at Napolisumisura.

 

[unbelragazzo]

Actually just noticed that you wanted a roped shoulder. In that case Chan might be better.

 

[HughJ]

For all the back and forth on Tom Ford in these forums, IMHO the house aesthetic lends itself best to formal wear. 2 button or not, it works for me.

There are ample threads here that illustrate the pitfalls of made to measure. Personally, I would hold off on commissioning a bespoke tuxedo (especially your first and only) until you've established a relationship with your tailor and are comfortable/familiar with their work.

 

[WiseMenOfGotham]



For all the back and forth on Tom Ford in these forums, IMHO the house aesthetic lends itself best to formal wear. 2 button or not, it works for me.
There are ample threads here that illustrate the pitfalls of made to measure. Personally, I would hold off on commissioning a bespoke tuxedo (especially your first and only) until you've established a relationship with your tailor and are comfortable/familiar with their work.

I agree with you completely. I've noticed with my MTM experiences that there is a disconnect between my expectations and what the tailor has in mind based on what he hears. My issues with my own MTM has been with fit and lack of certain options such as lapel width or style. I wasn't "blown away" by my commissions and find myself reaching for my heavily tailored OTR garments more so than my MTM garments.

With bespoke, the issue would be trying to make a tailor do something that isn't exactly the house style. I'm assuming Napolisumisura does more of a soft shoulder, lightly padded jacket, which I prefer but not for my tuxedo. I find that a strong peak lapel with a roped shoulder would be best for formal wear.

Is 2 button a deal breaker for an otherwise very traditional tuxedo?

 

[unbelragazzo]

Off topic, but personally I love a louchey softly tailored chest and shoulders on a DJ. It's a little more appropriate for a shawl collar than peaks, but I like it with peaks too.

 

[unbelragazzo]

And for me, there would be absolutely no point in paying 2k for a 2-button tux. But to each his own.