First Tuxedo - Advice

[Baked Potato]

Hey guys,

My wardrobe lacks a tuxedo. I've lately been invited to events which requires a tux, so the time has come to get my first tuxedo. I just need some advice.

I'm going to go with an MtM tux (I've booked a time tomorrow at SuitSupply). It's going to be a black full canvas tuxedo with peak lapels. I've heard that the correct way is to go without any vents. What do you guys say about that? Will it be uncomfortable if it lacks vents? Right now I'm thinking of skipping the vents for the correct look, but you can try to sway me the other way. Also, the lapels/buttons; I've seen that I can choose between "Ottoman" and satin. Is one more prefered that the other?

The trousers; should I go with a clean waist band, or with side adjusters? Of course I'll be wearing them with suspenders and that waist will be hidden beneath a cummberbund, so I'm more thinking if one is better in regards to comfort. My white tie trousers lack side adjusters and are a tad bit more roomy in the waist and worn with suspenders.

The shirt: A simple white french cuffed shirt with a lay-down collar (don't really like the tip collar if I'm not wearing white tie) with a hidden button placket. What do you guys think about the fabric? Should I go with a twill fabric to get some texture?

If I forgot something, please don't hesitate to fill me in. Thank you so much.

 

[Andy57]

Hey guys,

My wardrobe lacks a tuxedo. I've lately been invited to events which requires a tux, so the time has come to get my first tuxedo. I just need some advice.

This is my advice, others may have a different point of view.

I'm going to go with an MtM tux (I've booked a time tomorrow at SuitSupply). It's going to be a black full canvas tuxedo with peak lapels. I've heard that the correct way is to go without any vents. What do you guys say about that? Will it be uncomfortable if it lacks vents? Right now I'm thinking of skipping the vents for the correct look, but you can try to sway me the other way. Also, the lapels/buttons; I've seen that I can choose between "Ottoman" and satin. Is one more prefered that the other?

I don't know why people assume that ventless jackets are somehow uncomfortable. They're not. Standing or sitting, I very much doubt you could tell the difference. All my dinner jackets are ventless and I've never even thought about it.

The trousers; should I go with a clean waist band, or with side adjusters? Of course I'll be wearing them with suspenders and that waist will be hidden beneath a cummberbund, so I'm more thinking if one is better in regards to comfort. My white tie trousers lack side adjusters and are a tad bit more roomy in the waist and worn with suspenders.

My advice would be to get trousers that are roomy and use suspenders. I see no point in side adjusters under a cummerbund. Trousers that are meant to be held up with suspenders should be loose in the waist. You will also find them to be much more comfortable when you're sitting down and especially after eating (both common activities when wearing a tuxedo). So, if you're able to buy separates, get trousers that are at least the next size up from your regular size. Don't let the sale rep persuade you otherwise.

The shirt: A simple white french cuffed shirt with a lay-down collar (don't really like the tip collar if I'm not wearing white tie) with a hidden button placket. What do you guys think about the fabric? Should I go with a twill fabric to get some texture?

Plain poplin or voile. Save the twill for something else. But, if you are going to the trouble of obtaining a tuxedo, then buy a formal shirt with pleats or a marcella front.

Good luck and post photos in the Black Tie thread.

 

[Baked Potato]

This is my advice, others may have a different point of view.

I don't know why people assume that ventless jackets are somehow uncomfortable. They're not. Standing or sitting, I very much doubt you could tell the difference. All my dinner jackets are ventless and I've never even thought about it.


My advice would be to get trousers that are roomy and use suspenders. I see no point in side adjusters under a cummerbund. Trousers that are meant to be held up with suspenders should be loose in the waist. You will also find them to be much more comfortable when you're sitting down and especially after eating (both common activities when wearing a tuxedo). So, if you're able to buy separates, get trousers that are at least the next size up from your regular size. Don't let the sale rep persuade you otherwise.

Plain poplin or voile. Save the twill for something else. But, if you are going to the trouble of obtaining a tuxedo, then buy a formal shirt with pleats or a marcella front.

Good luck and post photos in the Black Tie thread.

Thank you. As I mentioned before, I'm going the MtM route with this one, so I'll be able to get the trousers however I like them. Although I'm completely unsure if I should go with ottoman or satin button/lapels. Any help there?

Regarding the shirt, I'm not so much for pleats nor marcella. As far as I know, a twill/poplin fabric is still suitable?

 

[Andy57]

Thank you. As I mentioned before, I'm going the MtM route with this one, so I'll be able to get the trousers however I like them. Although I'm completely unsure if I should go with ottoman or satin button/lapels. Any help there?

Regarding the shirt, I'm not so much for pleats nor marcella. As far as I know, a twill/poplin fabric is still suitable?

If by Ottoman you mean grosgrain silk, get that, rather than satin. I really don't recommend twill. If you want to get plain front shirt, I recommend that you get one with a covered placket.

 

[Baked Potato]

If by Ottoman you mean grosgrain silk, get that, rather than satin. I really don't recommend twill. If you want to get plain front shirt, I recommend that you get one with a covered placket.

Yes, exactly. Sorry, not really familiar with the term, it's called "Ottoman" on SuitSupply's website.

Regarding the shirt; yes, as I mentioned earlier, I'm going for a covered placket. So you'd recommend me going with a regular poplin fabric? I've also seen a twill that looked like it had some kind of a pique texture (it was called textured twill), what about that?

Also, I'm quite unsure what I should do in regards to the trouser lining. Should I go with full lining for more structure and do remove the risk of my socks getting stuck (less friction), or just go with regular half lining? I'm also skipping the pleats (plain front).

Thank you so much for helping me out. I'm quite familiar with suits and white tie, but I've never got the opportunity to wear a tuxedo before...

EDIT: Regarding grosgrain silk and satin as lapel alternatives - does that mean that the trouser "stripes" (or whatever the correct term is) needs to be in the same material? Because it seems like I can't seem to choose that.

Also, should I go with any amf stitching on the jacket?

 

[Andy57]

Yes, exactly. Sorry, not really familiar with the term, it's called "Ottoman" on SuitSupply's website.

Googling around, it seems that Ottoman and grosgrain are not necessarily the same thing. But both are textured silks and stand in contrast to satin. Here's the thing: rental tuxes are always satin. Using a textured silk on the lapel facings is a subtle way of standing apart from those rental garments. You should get whatever you wish—it's your suit, after all.

Regarding the shirt; yes, as I mentioned earlier, I'm going for a covered placket. So you'd recommend me going with a regular poplin fabric? I've also seen a twill that looked like it had some kind of a pique texture (it was called textured twill), what about that?

Also, I'm quite unsure what I should do in regards to the trouser lining. Should I go with full lining for more structure and do remove the risk of my socks getting stuck (less friction), or just go with regular half lining? I'm also skipping the pleats (plain front).

Again, get what you want. If you want a twill shirt, get one. I don't like twill for dress shirts myself, but that is merely a personal preference.

There's no particular reason to get your trousers fully lined unless you are uncomfortable wearing wool trousers that are only half lined. Plain front or pleats, again, is up to you.

EDIT: Regarding grosgrain silk and satin as lapel alternatives - does that mean that the trouser "stripes" (or whatever the correct term is) needs to be in the same material? Because it seems like I can't seem to choose that.

The texture of the stripe on the outside seam of your trousers should match the lapel facing of your jacket (and your bow tie and cummerbund). But, honestly, no one else is likely to notice.

Also, should I go with any amf stitching on the jacket?

No.

 

[Baked Potato]

Googling around, it seems that Ottoman and grosgrain are not necessarily the same thing. But both are textured silks and stand in contrast to satin. Here's the thing: rental tuxes are always satin. Using a textured silk on the lapel facings is a subtle way of standing apart from those rental garments. You should get whatever you wish—it's your suit, after all.


Again, get what you want. If you want a twill shirt, get one. I don't like twill for dress shirts myself, but that is merely a personal preference.

There's no particular reason to get your trousers fully lined unless you are uncomfortable wearing wool trousers that are only half lined. Plain front or pleats, again, is up to you.


The texture of the stripe on the outside seam of your trousers should match the lapel facing of your jacket (and your bow tie and cummerbund). But, honestly, no one else is likely to notice.

No.

Thank you so much. I really feel much more informed than yesterday.

Would you say amf stitching is a total no-no? I usually have it on my jackets, but I guess you'd like to keep a tux cleaner looking.

As mentioned, I doubt that they'll match the lapels with the trouser stripes. But I'll go with the ottoman lapels, so I get some texture.

Also, is a cummerbund a must? I don't really like vests. I'm also going to get the waist a bit higher. I usually get my trousers with a waist that's just beneath the navel, perhaps I should a cm...

 

[Andy57]

Thank you so much. I really feel much more informed than yesterday.

Would you say amf stitching is a total no-no? I usually have it on my jackets, but I guess you'd like to keep a tux cleaner looking.

As mentioned, I doubt that they'll match the lapels with the trouser stripes. But I'll go with the ottoman lapels, so I get some texture.

Also, is a cummerbund a must? I don't really like vests. I'm also going to get the waist a bit higher. I usually get my trousers with a waist that's just beneath the navel, perhaps I should a cm...

Pick stitching or AMF stitching is not appropriate on a dinner jacket. As for the cummerbund, the point is that you need a waist covering. This is the mistake that most people make these days. The waistband of your trousers should be covered, either by a waistcoat or by a cummerbund. You are going to the trouble of acquiring a good, decent dinner jacket and trousers. Do it right, cover your waistband. If you don't want to wear either a waistcoat or a cummerbund, get a double breasted dinner jacket, instead.

If none of the above, then just wear a regular lounge suit.

 

[ld111134]

Pick stitching or AMF stitching is not appropriate on a dinner jacket. As for the cummerbund, the point is that you need a waist covering. This is the mistake that most people make these days. The waistband of your trousers should be covered, either by a waistcoat or by a cummerbund. You are going to the trouble of acquiring a good, decent dinner jacket and trousers. Do it right, cover your waistband. If you don't want to wear either a waistcoat or a cummerbund, get a double breasted dinner jacket, instead.

If none of the above, then just wear a regular lounge suit.

This advice is as spot-on as an Alan Shearer penalty kick.

 

[Baked Potato]

Pick stitching or AMF stitching is not appropriate on a dinner jacket. As for the cummerbund, the point is that you need a waist covering. This is the mistake that most people make these days. The waistband of your trousers should be covered, either by a waistcoat or by a cummerbund. You are going to the trouble of acquiring a good, decent dinner jacket and trousers. Do it right, cover your waistband. If you don't want to wear either a waistcoat or a cummerbund, get a double breasted dinner jacket, instead.

If none of the above, then just wear a regular lounge suit.

Thank you! I ordered a tux and a shirt earlier today. I went with the ottoman lapels and they told me that the trouser stripes will be in the same material (including the buttons too). No vents, of course. The fabric is a black wool and mohair blend.

I actually went with fully lined trousers, as I prefer it that way. I don't know what's correct when it comes to the trousers (front) pockets, but I chose jetted pockets. I guess that's the correct option, as the jacket pockets are jetted?

Regarding the shirt; I chose a fine twill. I didn't really like the poplin options, nor the more textured twill fabrics. The fine twill nearly looks like a poplin, with a very fine twill texture. Hidden placket and a regular turn down collar.

Well, just need to wait a month for it to arrive. Need to get the accesories in place before that though. I hope I can find a cummerbund that matches the lapels. No worries when it comes to the bowtie, they offered one at the same place which matched the ottoman fabric.

 

[Andy57]

Thank you! I ordered a tux and a shirt earlier today. I went with the ottoman lapels and they told me that the trouser stripes will be in the same material (including the buttons too). No vents, of course. The fabric is a black wool and mohair blend.

Good choices. I hope you will be pleased.

I actually went with fully lined trousers, as I prefer it that way. I don't know what's correct when it comes to the trousers (front) pockets, but I chose jetted pockets. I guess that's the correct option, as the jacket pockets are jetted?

You made a good call, having your trousers fully lined. Mohair changes the equation. Depending on the quality, mohair can be scratchy. I have my mohair trousers fully lined.

Well, just need to wait a month for it to arrive. Need to get the accesories in place before that though. I hope I can find a cummerbund that matches the lapels. No worries when it comes to the bowtie, they offered one at the same place which matched the ottoman fabric.

I wouldn't sweat the cummerbund too much. I think any non-satin, black silk cummerbund will look just fine.

Now you need shoes, cufflinks, and a nice white linen pocket square. And don't forget to post pictures in the Black Tie thread.

 

[Baked Potato]

Good choices. I hope you will be pleased.

You made a good call, having your trousers fully lined. Mohair changes the equation. Depending on the quality, mohair can be scratchy. I have my mohair trousers fully lined.

I wouldn't sweat the cummerbund too much. I think any non-satin, black silk cummerbund will look just fine.

Now you need shoes, cufflinks, and a nice white linen pocket square. And don't forget to post pictures in the Black Tie thread.

I'm having a bit of an issue trying to find a grossgrain cummerbund. Seems like all I find is in satin/plain silk. Do you have any recommendations? Preferably in the EU or UK.

 

[Andy57]

I'm having a bit of an issue trying to find a grossgrain cummerbund. Seems like all I find is in satin/plain silk. Do you have any recommendations? Preferably in the EU or UK.

Budd, in the Piccadilly Arcade.

 

[Baked Potato]

Budd, in the Piccadilly Arcade.

Thank you. Took a look at their website. This is the only textured (non-plain) one I found.

 

[Andy57]

Thank you. Took a look at their website. This is the only textured (non-plain) one I found.

That's a nice one. If you want other options, look at:
Ede & Ravenscroft
New & Lingwood
Hilditch & Key
Favourbrook