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The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mimo, Feb 12, 2016.

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  1. rirakuma

    rirakuma Senior member

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    Damn thats nice :slayer:
     
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  2. Belligero

    Belligero Senior member

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    I'm certain. Essentially the only in-house thing about that movement is Hublot's obfuscatory name for it.

    The HUB1110/HUB1112 movements are off-the-shelf Sellita SW300s — which themselves are clones of a generic ETA — with the 1112 version having a somewhat bigger-than-stock date wheel.
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2016
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  3. mildundklar

    mildundklar Well-Known Member

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    Ok, thnank you. I passed the offer anyway. I'm really satisfied with my 114060.
     
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  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That Hublot would have been a truly odd bedfellow for your SubC.
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2016
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  5. tim_horton

    tim_horton Senior member

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    DAMN! :slayer:
     
  6. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    I'm far from a loving extra large watches...and I can do 35mm or smaller if its not round (as square and rectangular pieces wear larger), but anything below 35 in a round case is too small for most men. If the owner/wearer is maybe in his 60's or 70s, in which case the guy might be the original owner and it may fit his sense of style. So then maybe under 35 mm will work. However, for the most part, a guy of average build wearing a 33 mm round watch looks like he borrowed his wife or girlfriend's watch.

    For me, 36 to 38 is the sweet spot for dress watches. While I like the 5296...I hate the border around the date window. I prefer the date window treatment of the old 3998. I also think they used a nicer font for the numerals on the date of some 3998s. The 5 in the date window of your photo is a bit bland compared to the one below.

    [​IMG]


    38 is really an ideal size for a dress watch today. Its large enough to look modern, yet remain understated. Dress watches that are 40mm or larger just start to seem too large and a bit too much like showing off .

    Glad you didn't pull the trigger. Nothing special inside and I agree with Belligero...its really more of a fashion watch.
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2016
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  7. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Funny--I feel just the opposite. I think the border around the date helps balance it against the baton markers for the hours. Also, if you are going to have a date, why blend it in? Might as well highlight it as a feature. Also the date font on the 3998 is a little odd for a watch design based on Bauhaus principles. Think the plainer, more matter-of-fact font on the 5296 makes more sense in that context.

    However, bigger issue with the 3998 is the case shape. It is neither here nor there with the oddly angled lugs. The 5296, on the other hand, is as classicly Calatrava as they come.
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2016
  8. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Perhaps, as you suggest, the intended effect when a gold border is put around a date, is for it NOT to blend in and instead for it to stand out. However, I just find it an unattractive detail. If a watch has a date, I don't want it to be the focal point of the dial. I want it to be background that doesn't immediately draw my eye to it.

    The only time a border around a date doesn't bother me is on a grand date, on a Lange 1 or a JLC...but those have a completely different style than a Calatrava (or other time only watch). Actually, when it comes to dress watches, I prefer no date at all. Currently, none of my dress watches have a date.

    I find the font for the date on the 3998, a bit more whimsical than the plain font of the 5296. Calatravas are elegant watches, but some of them are so plain and serious they can almost be boring...so I feel it needs something a bit more stylized and playful, even if its just the font used for the date.
     
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  9. tigerpac

    tigerpac Senior member

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    What a nice discussion. :)

    I prefer 37-40mm or so to fit me but agree 38 should work for just about everybody. Another part of the equation is the thickness. The Patek you posted is a nice 8.6mm, so that really adds to the overall 'dress-ability' Once things get thicker (than maybe 12mm or so) they wear bigger and sportier for me. It's a secondary part of the equation but still an important one.
     
  10. Dino944

    Dino944 Senior member

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    Agreed, there is definitely a ratio of diameter and thickness that has to work correctly for it to look like a proper dress watch. Too thick and it looks like a sports watch...if its too thin, it starts to resemble a pancake on a leather strap (that usually happens when a watch is over 40mm...like Piagets 43mm Altiplano).
     
  11. zippyh

    zippyh Senior member

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    Bloody Mary time at the pool.
    [​IMG]
     
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  12. Keith T

    Keith T Senior member

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    Of the current Calatrava lineup, I would probably pick the sector dial version in white gold for myself.

    But it's got a day-counter, central seconds, and isn't really a dressy style at all compared to these others....I suppose I just really like the hands (?) and the subtle two-tone dial.



    Having said that, I do think the 5196J is pretty nice, too. Despite the movement/case size discrepancy.

    Supposedly Brunello Cucinelli wears that one, FWIW.
     
  13. FlashmanH

    FlashmanH Member

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    Hi everyone,

    Have been following some of the discussions on the quality and finishing of movements, and independents vs the more established watchmakers, so thought I would jump in with some photos of what I have...I am a big fan of time-only pieces from the independents so sharing a couple of those examples. They are a bit quirky and have very different aesthetics, but are fun to wear in their own way..

    First - Laurent Ferrier Galet Square

    [​IMG]

    And, the movement..
    [​IMG]

    Second - a maker that doesn't get written about much - Urban Jurgensen...this is the model with the in-house detent escapement
    [​IMG]

    The movement
    [​IMG]

    And the teardrop lugs which are absolutely stunning in real life...(apologies for the terrible photo)
    [​IMG]

    And, finally some fun close-ups that I took while playing with my macro lens and a loupe
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  14. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ^^^ Big fan of Laurent Ferrier. The challenge with a lot of the independents is that their eccentricity and taste (or lack thereof?) can get out of hand. Ferrier and Journe are my two favorites because they manage to be unique but remain elegant and tasteful. Don't want my watch to try so hard to grab attention.

    But then, I prefer my Pateks serious and plain :).
     
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  15. usctrojans31

    usctrojans31 Senior member

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    H.Moser makes a great understated piece as well.
     
  16. FlashmanH

    FlashmanH Member

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    Yup, agree...I think both the LF and the UJS are elegant but they have very different aesthetics. I consider the LF to be similar to Patek (no surprise given his background) while the UJS would be more Lange...the UJS definitely gets noticed much much more.

    Also, agree on H. Moser..love their perpetual calendar.
     
  17. culverwood

    culverwood Senior member

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    Breitling Avenger Seawolf Chrono Blacksteel "Code Orange" - Could there be a more butch name for a watch?:cool:
     
  18. Keith T

    Keith T Senior member

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    Well, I just googled it, and I must say that it's a fairly butch-looking piece.

    At least they didn't try to fit that entire name on the dial :)
     
  19. SteveH35

    SteveH35 Senior member

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    @FlashmanH Great collection! I love those pieces.

    Any AP Millenary fans here? This one is further proof that if you are willing to look back a few years you can find some incredibly cool, under-appreciated pieces. Retail on this one was $330k!!

    [​IMG]
     
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  20. FlashmanH

    FlashmanH Member

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    Thanks @SteveH35

    I know this watch has garnered a lot of interest on this forum already...probably my easiest to wear "nice" watch. Goes with almost everything and looks outstanding...not a time-only watch, but I traded the seconds hand for a date window! And, the bracelet is incredibly comfortable...for those who have not handled this, the watch looks much much more impressive in person than in photos

    AP Royal Oak Jumbo
    [​IMG]

    And, a hairy wrist shot...
    [​IMG]
     
    3 people like this.

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