• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Concordia

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Oct 6, 2004
Messages
7,721
Reaction score
1,672
If you want a loafer, do you really want all that stuff on the sole? Or rather, if you want the heavy hardware to help you walk, shouldn't you get Derby lacing?
 

FrankCowperwood

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
May 23, 2011
Messages
10,341
Reaction score
14,551
Thank you. I am thinking through my options, and it is sometimes hard to opt for simplicity when you can have whatever you want. How do you feel about double versus single sole? The loafer on the Vass website shows a single sole, which looks fine on the style.

Perhaps I should go with brown scotch grain and a single sole, and leave it at that.
 

arglist

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2012
Messages
101
Reaction score
125
Guys, I have a question for the Vass cracks. I have ordered and quite promply received a pair of beautiful of Old English Oxfords on F-last in size 41.

They came together with a pair of standard trees that were clearly too small although being marked 41. I stupidly did not follow my gut feeling and used them anyway after wearing the shoes which caused quite some creasing on the foreshoe (vamp, I think it's called).

Anyway I wrote Mr. Kuti and asked about it. He promply sent me a pair of trees in 42 which filled my shoes quite nicely.

But, and here's my question: unlike all other trees I own the wood does not touch the vamp leather from inside. Instead it just stretches the leather by spring force. Is that normal and if so is it effective in preventing creasing?

Thanks for your opinions.

Florian
 

RogerP

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2012
Messages
9,906
Reaction score
10,116
Considering a Budapest last norweger loafer in scotch grain. Any thoughts from the gentlemen here in goyser sewing on this and double versus single sole?


I'd go double sole - I just have a very strong preference on that point. It's hardly going to overwhelm the shoe and make it look overly heavy - particularly if it transitions to a single sole under the arch. And I generally don't like an overly delicate-looking shoe to begin with.

Love Goyser stitching, but not sure I see it here.
 

bertie

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 30, 2009
Messages
864
Reaction score
234

Thank you. I am thinking through my options, and it is sometimes hard to opt for simplicity when you can have whatever you want. How do you feel about double versus single sole? The loafer on the Vass website shows a single sole, which looks fine on the style.

Perhaps I should go with brown scotch grain and a single sole, and leave it at that.


Yes. While the Norweger style potentially could take doubel sole (and I have a Norweger derby with a double sole), single is more classic for a loafer. No Goyser - that is for sh*tkickers not loafers.
 

Ilovelobbs

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2013
Messages
687
Reaction score
75
I'd go double sole - I just have a very strong preference on that point. It's hardly going to overwhelm the shoe and make it look overly heavy - particularly if it transitions to a single sole under the arch. And I generally don't like an overly delicate-looking shoe to begin with.

Love Goyser stitching, but not sure I see it here.
Have to agree with your comments on double sole - but....only if the shoe is a size 42 or bigger....
and only if Vass skilled craftsman at hand by tapering the double sole into a sublime single at
the waist....it just ooozes class.

Double sole on size 41 or smaller can look oddly stunted and chunky if you know what I mean....
Also bear in mind the cost of replacing your sole can cost €130 from Vass (that's excluding shipping).

Single sole has it advantages on the K & U last...it simply looks sleek
 

joiji

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2012
Messages
1,058
Reaction score
79
Quote:

rotflmao.gif
 

Ilovelobbs

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2013
Messages
687
Reaction score
75
F has a slightly higher instep than P2, don't have others.

By the way - this is a comparison of U, F and P2 from the Shoegazing blog


Can I clarify a couple of points with regard to high in-step in regard to shoe style (oxford; derby; monks; loafers)

If you have high in-step, avoid close lace up oxford chelsea like the
first 2 pairs in this picture. And try and gear towards a pair of Derby open lace
like the last pair in this picture....or go for a pair of slip-on monk strap.

There is more opening around the instep on the monks/derby....

So the in-step space on the U last Derby and a U last Oxford will vary.
 

RogerP

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2012
Messages
9,906
Reaction score
10,116
Have to agree with your comments on double sole - but....only if the shoe is a size 42 or bigger....
and only if Vass skilled craftsman at hand by tapering the double sole into a sublime single at
the waist....it just ooozes class.

Double sole on size 41 or smaller can look oddly stunted and chunky if you know what I mean....
Also bear in mind the cost of replacing your sole can cost €130 from Vass (that's excluding shipping).

Single sole has it advantages on the K & U last...it simply looks sleek

Fair enough comment on size - I wear a 43, so the double sole looks good in pretty much any application to my eye.

My K lasted Vass is double-soled, tapered to a single at the waist - I wouldn't have it any other way.

And since the double soles will last a good long while, the ultimate cost of resoling is quite significantly deferred.
 
Last edited:

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 92 37.4%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 90 36.6%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 27 11.0%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 41 16.7%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 38 15.4%

Forum statistics

Threads
506,966
Messages
10,593,131
Members
224,361
Latest member
Mineraule
Top