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The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by luk-cha, Jul 24, 2009.

  1. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    lol - had a feeling u guys know each other well. great poster, he's missed
     
  2. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    +1

    Come back, SoS!

    I also want to know more about this gemming failure business...an idiot guide to what's gemmed, what isn't, and how to know if it's failed. But maybe that should be another thread...
     
  3. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Search function is your friend.

    Aside from gemming failure, EG and G&G use heat molded stiffener on toes and JL on toe and heel cup, where better made shoes uses leather.
     
  4. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Blow me :p

    Anyway, interesting. Really that surprises me given their price point. So, back to the thread subject, where does Vass stand on these various issues?
     
  5. archangle13

    archangle13 Senior member

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    Can Vass modify the instep slightly for MTO?

    Does the F last has a slightly smaller instep than the U last?


    Oh yea, any pictures of gemming failure? How are we to identify it?
     
  6. Swede66

    Swede66 Senior member

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    According to the sales manager at Vass F has a higher instep than U.
    Just received a mail from him on exactly this subject.
     
  7. Gdot

    Gdot Senior member

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    ALL goodyear welted RTW shoes made in England are gemmed. Including top of the line Lobb, EG and G&G. There are very few RTW makers who hand welt or who use a leather welt.

    If you are a purist who wants a truly handcrafted shoe and wishes to spend less than $1000 for it the most obvious choice is Vass. Although there are other small scale makers in this price point.

    Another fine option if you fear the gemming are shoes made in the blake rapid construction. Scads of Italian makers use this method although with the Italian makers one must be very careful to verify the construction methods as they often work in a multitude of methods and don't often make it known what method they use.

    Personally I don't believe gemming to be inherently 'bad' as it has been the primary method of manufacture for 50 plus years in the factory manufacture of goodyear welted shoes. If it were the travesty that some people around here seem to think it is we would not have so little evidence of it's terrible inferiority. I think one would be well advised to take a more detailed/nuanced approach in their judgement of what makes a quality shoe and understand that even with gemming there will be differences in the quality of the materials used and the care of the workmanship, just as there is with handwelting.
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. rikod

    rikod Senior member

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    Vass shell, from left saddle, burgundy, saddle, whiskey and burgundy

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    4 people like this.
  9. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    What an asshole
     
  10. SHS

    SHS Senior member

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    WTF? He's trying to help as good as he can and contributes with valuable information IMO.
     
  11. gyasih

    gyasih Senior member

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    To get back to the good stuff, I have included a ton of pics of the swatches in various lighting. I numbered them 1-8, from left to right looking at the computer monitor.
    1. 6319
    2. Red Cognac
    3. Antic Cognac
    4. 6125 Cognac
    5. Cognac
    6. Burgundy
    7. Oxblood
    8. Dark Brown
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    Burgundy, Oxblood, Dark Brown
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2013
  12. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Thanks, G. I kind of assumed your first point, but was surprised that the likes of EG, JL, G&G, and the "handgrade" ranges of other makers, would be included.

    So, in answer to my previous question, Vass shoes are not gemmed, and are completely hand-welted and hand-stitched soles? Man, I love them even more now. Any idea what other makers fall into this category?

    As for blake rapid, fair point, but it's horses for courses: for a lightweight loafer or something, I get it, but to be honest I always prefer the way a corked, welted shoe moulds to the foot.

    Anyway, I guess both you and the Hoo are right: gemming does fail, it is inferior to a totally hand-sewn construction, but in the real world (especially for vain self-obsessed types like us who rotate several pairs), we might never know. The big point about what Hoo said, I think, is that it puts a question mark over paying so much for the top brands - unless you're going to treat them with kid gloves and wear them twice a year. I've no issue with a pair of $300 Cheaneys with that construction, but if I'd just bought a G&G MTO for $1300+, I'd be pissed.

    So, Vass rocks then. No dissenters in this thread, I'm sure. :)
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2013
  13. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    Goodyear MEANS gemmed. In handwelt, a part of the leather insole in cored out and sewn to the welt.. In Goodyear, a piece of textile is glued to the insole and the welt sewn to it (then to the upper).
     
  14. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    As grown men, cursing/ offensive language as an insult on a forum is totally unnecessary. Best to remember the internet is forever.
     
  15. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Senior member

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    Love the two ones in saddle
     
  16. isshinryu101

    isshinryu101 Senior member

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    In terms of modern footwear, Vass is the only hand welted shoe available at that price point (at least unless we add in some not very well known artisans who make small batches).
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. sstomcat

    sstomcat Senior member

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    Rikod-

    The Burgundy with 360 welt is beautiful. The difference b/w Whiskey and Saddle seems to be very nuanced isn't it?
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2013
  18. gsugsu

    gsugsu Senior member

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    This. Hoo-man, delivery aside, was trying to clearly make a point that is often ignored here. There is no need for name calling. There are not many members here who are willing to take iconic makers to task. If is refreshing to read posts that are something more than fan-boy ravings. They all have their place but fundamental topics such as gemming help people understand and learn beyond simply looking at a shoe and saying "I like it" for esthetic reasons and justify their liking of it simply because it is EG or JL.
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Good stuff. Thank you for posting them up! They look so different indoors and out!

    Is the third from left, a plain brown?
     
  20. gyasih

    gyasih Senior member

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    I think it's one of Vass' Cognac colors. The one on the far right is Dark Brown.
     

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