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DonRaphael

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Everytime I tell myself that I should vary my shoe wardrobe with other makers and lasts I take a look at my Vass F-lasted shoes and think 'why should I settle for something suboptimal for the simple reason of expanding'?

Today Vass, F-last, plain cap toe, brown museum calf.

I've come to the conclusion that I don't need any other last in my life. My next commission will be a punched cap toe on the F-last in Vass' dark brown calf (not museum).

IMG_20210909_094631_edit_727532647016587.jpg
 

OzWino

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Everytime I tell myself that I should vary my shoe wardrobe with other makers and lasts I take a look at my Vass F-lasted shoes and think 'why should I settle for something suboptimal for the simple reason of expanding'?

Today Vass, F-last, plain cap toe, brown museum calf.

I've come to the conclusion that I don't need any other last in my life. My next commission will be a punched cap toe on the F-last in Vass' dark brown calf (not museum).

View attachment 1665778

I've been looking at the F last recently. How rounded/bulbous is the toe in real life. It looks a little rounded but not too much, a little chiselled but not too much. I'd be interested in your perspective.
 

DonRaphael

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I've been looking at the F last recently. How rounded/bulbous is the toe in real life. It looks a little rounded but not too much, a little chiselled but not too much. I'd be interested in your perspective.

Everything is relative. But personally, I don't find the F last bulbous at all. On the contrary. For me, it hits a perfect balance between classic round yet symmetrically pleasing as it offers something interesting shape wise in addition to just being round.

But I guess that depends on your reference. Allen Edmonds' 65/5 last is bulbous to me. The F last is nothing like that. It's less round than Edward Green's 202/82 and better balanced and less banana shaped than the latter imo. Same goes for Crockett & Jones' 236 last or Alfred Sargent's 109 last.

What I really like about the F last which you might not see in fit pics around here is that it's very pleasing to look at in profile as well, which won't be seen in most pics. It's not just dull/flat, but has rather interesting lines compared to for example C&J's 236 last which is just monotone imo.

Youe description was quite accurate actually: not too round yet not too chiseled. It holds its ground against the very best imo.
 

OzWino

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Thanks for that. Very helpful. I have AS Armfield (109 last) and the Moore (724). I do find the Moores fit me well - especially with a high instep. But the F last also looks good, from images anyway.
 

DonRaphael

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Thanks for that. Very helpful. I have AS Armfield (109 last) and the Moore (724). I do find the Moores fit me well - especially with a high instep. But the F last also looks good, from images anyway.
I have both of those as well. Do you want me to snap a couple of pics together with the F and U lasts?

724 is totally different from F. It's more comparable with U.
 

OzWino

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I was looking at the U last as well, as I read it was more accommodating with the instep but may be too narrow at the toe. If you have experience with both, your learned opinion would be most welcome.
 

DonRaphael

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I was looking at the U last as well, as I read it was more accommodating with the instep but may be too narrow at the toe. If you have experience with both, your learned opinion would be most welcome.
In terms of room and size, it's somewhat tricky. I, for example take the following sizes all in standard width:
Alfred Sargent 724: UK7,5
Vass U: EU41,5
Alfred Sargent 109: UK7,5
Vass F: EU41

Most people I know differ 1/2 size between F and U. But there are many that don't as well.

The U is more forgiving in the instep compared to the 724. I don't find the former to be narrower in the toe area than the latter. Both are chiseled and elongated. 724 is sharper while F is rounder. The 724 is a square chiseled while the U is a soft square comparatively. I think U is a tad longer than 724 as well. For me, U offers better arch support than 724.

As for the classic lasts, both are round. F is sleeker aesthetically while 109 is rounder and more banana shaped. Fit wise, the same applies as with the U vs 724. F might have somewhat less room in the toe area compared to 109 because the latter is rounder and thus roomier.

Between U and F, the latter is more forgiving in the toe area generally speaking. But I take different sizes between U and F, so I guess the comparison between the two isn't fair.

I'll upload pics when I get home from work.
 

mr monty

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Any current Vass discount coupons???

Thanks,
 

DonRaphael

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Alfred Sargent 109 UK7,5
Vass F EU41
Vass U EU41,5
Alfred Sargent 724 UK7,5

In terms of aesthetics,
109 vs F: 109 is longer, more banana shaped than F and features a rounder toe.

724 vs U: 724 is more square chiseled while u is soft chiseled. 724 is shorter than U.
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