The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[ShawnBC]

^^ I'd be curious as well, as crotch wear is an issue I experience too. My understanding is that the patch has to be on the outside, because if they put in inside, the holes would still be visible. Although I am unsure about wether it is possible to stitch the patch outside from the inside.

I'll follow the issue because this is the kind of alterations I will need in the near future.

 

[greger]

You may want to check here

Here are some more tutorials

 

[mrgustavh]

It's very well fitting for a rtw piece at that price point. When looking at the nitty gritty of things, the sleeves are maybe a few cm on the sort side and the rear vent in my opinion could be shortened by 1cm. I also own a few Jort pieces and SUSU tend to do that. Although it would show a tad more of your backside, the balance from front to back would be better. Most jackets, especially Italian are balanced with a shorter back than front.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[thedesi]

Hello,

I need feedback on tie pocket square combo. Ors for a wedding. I'm pretty sure this is not the thread for it. Appreciate suggests id repost it elsewhere.

 

[palodelincak]

Is there going to be any impact on how pants drape when only the back rise will be decreased?

I have pair of high rise pants with perfect fit and drape, but the back rise is too long for me - but the front rise is perfect. The front rise is smaller then the back rise and thus the waistband from side view is under steep angle.

 

[Aloysius16]

Just received my first Luxire trial pants and I'm looking to correct the fit before getting the three pairs I bought during the recent sale made up. I think in general the fit doesn't look too bad, but I would appreciate comments on the following aspects of cut that affect the comfort.

A. There is a lack of freedom of movement at the front of the thigh (around and below the pockets), as if the trouser legs only like being vertical and object somewhat to the movement involved in walking and sitting! When i sit, the rear waistband gapes out and the front cuts in, again like the trousers are seeking to remain vertical! I could add something to the thigh measurement but I don't want bagginess at the rear and I have other trousers which measure the same at the thigh but do not constrain movement to the same extent. I suspect this is something to do with the 'balance' and the cut of the stride/fork, but I have little understanding here.

B. The part of the seat seam which curves under the seat seems quite 'angular' below the seat I.e. It is quite straight from the rear waistband down and then suddenly curves sharply between the legs, creating a 'point' that can be felt and pulls somewhat. Is this an aspect of the pattern that can be adjusted, and to what effect? Might this be connected to problem A?
Hard to explain, but below are a couple of pictures of this area, both with the seat on the right of the photo. The first is the Luxire, the second are an old pair without this problem. Hopefully you can see that the old pair has more of a gentle curve under the seat, whereas the Luxire have a flat line under the crotch which then turns more sharply upwards in a straighter line towards the rear waistband.

C. I notice in these pictures that the inside leg seam on the Luxire pair is position further towards the front (the left of the photo). Might this be connected to either of the above problems?

 

[johnross2007]

Hey guys, thanks in advance for any advice.

I just got this suit from Knot Standard in Austin. This is the suit after the initial alterations from KS. Let me know what you think. I already requested a new vest (hasn't come in yet). I told them I wanted it to completely cover up the shirt so that there isn't that weird triangle above my crotch. I also asked for it to have one more button.

Other than that, please critique the fit and the style choices. I'm planning on using these suit pieces for the measurements to send to Luxire for my test fit shirt and pants (and much later, coat). Beyond slight corrections for Luxire purposes, is there anything that is worthy of taking this suit to the tailor for?

 

[A Guy from Shanghai]

@johnross2007

I am not a tailor...but here is my 2c:
1) Shoulder are bit too wide for you
2) Fuller trousers (from knee to ankle) will look better for your body.
3) Jacket button stance could be a little lower.

 

[1outside]

There's really not a suit on this planet that fits me. I really enjoy good suits, just hate to wear any myself. I'm on a budget (under 1000 euros) and looking for a navy suit for occasional work-related use.

Here's my newest try with a more classic fit. It's an inexpensive Marks&Spencer suit that an experienced salerperson and one tailor convinced me to buy. So I got it. I'm still going to shorten the sleeves a bit.

Overall, I'm also thinking of trying the Suitsupply Havana, which I ordered in size 56 + big trousers. It's still on the way and will post pictures of that also.

What do you think? Was it a total waste of money, or is it OK? I think the shoulders are problematic, but this is still the best fit I've tried on in years. My body type is really difficult.

 

[mddb83]

Hi all, I'll apologize in advance in case this has been covered before. I have a beautiful full canvas cashmere/wool blend sports jacket that no longer fits because I've lost weight. It seems to be beyond regular tailoring to fix a problem here or there. My question is, if I bring this jacket (44L) to a skilled tailor, could they use the fabric to re-create an identical blazer in a 40L? From a cost standpoint, is this on par with having a sports jacket made from scratch? Thanks for your help.

 

[thetallone]

Hi everyone,

I recently ordered my first custom shirt online from Spier & Mackay. It's their light blue brushed oxford (RY-985). I'd appreciate any feedback on fit.

It can be difficult to find something fitting my frame at 6' 4" ~195 lbs. My goal is a tailored look, nothing extra slim or skin-tight.

Please see the attached pictures. Note in the last picture I'm sitting and the placket spreads open.

Thanks in advance for your advice!

 

[Ttailor]



Hey guys, thanks in advance for any advice. I just got this suit from Knot Standard in Austin. This is the suit after the initial alterations from KS. Let me know what you think. I already requested a new vest (hasn't come in yet). I told them I wanted it to completely cover up the shirt so that there isn't that weird triangle above my crotch. I also asked for it to have one more button. Other than that, please critique the fit and the style choices. I'm planning on using these suit pieces for the measurements to send to Luxire for my test fit shirt and pants (and much later, coat). Beyond slight corrections for Luxire purposes, is there anything that is worthy of taking this suit to the tailor for?

Well, there is a lot going on here. I would get them to fix the trousers. They do not hang properly and the back inseam is dragged up underneath your seat and between the legs. I think the overall rise could be increased and I wonder about the hip size being insufficient. Lots of room for improvement. I don't know what has happened to trousers generally but The same problem is evident in other posts here. The waistcoat does not have sufficient fit for your shape, both for prominent chest and full front waist. It also does not marry well with the trouser rise as you have noticed.

 

[johnross2007]

Thanks @Ttailor and @A Guy from Shanghai . Are those problems that a local tailor can fix, or will I need to ask Knot Standard to remake the pants? I forgot to mention that I do not actually live in Austin.

I know after the initial fitting, the tailor they use specifically targeted the wedgie I had. Do you mean that it was insufficiently fixed?

For the purpose of what to tell Luxire when I send in the measurements of these pants, what do I tell them? Also, I think I will have luxire add pleats and cuffs, based on the belief that it *ahem* complements my frame.

I will list what I think and let me know what to add/fix/delete:
1) Increase rise (do I need to be specific somehow?)
2) let out seat
3) increase hip size
4) fuller from knee down

For the Jacket:
1) shorten shoulder measurement by....
2) Lower button stance

As for the waist, what does "full front waist" mean? Is that a euphemism for my prominent belly? I'm not offended, I just want to know what you mean.

 

[Ttailor]



Thanks @Ttailor
 and @A Guy from Shanghai
. Are those problems that a local tailor can fix, or will I need to ask Knot Standard to remake the pants? I forgot to mention that I do not actually live in Austin.

I know after the initial fitting, the tailor they use specifically targeted the wedgie I had. Do you mean that it was insufficiently fixed?

For the purpose of what to tell Luxire when I send in the measurements of these pants, what do I tell them? Also, I think I will have luxire add pleats and cuffs, based on the belief that it *ahem* complements my frame.

I will list what I think and let me know what to add/fix/delete:
1) Increase rise (do I need to be specific somehow?)
2) let out seat
3) increase hip size
4) fuller from knee down

For the Jacket:
1) shorten shoulder measurement by....
2) Lower button stance

As for the waist, what does "full front waist" mean? Is that a euphemism for my prominent belly? I'm not offended, I just want to know what you mean.

I don,t know who or what Knot standard is, but if they provided the suit they should fix it.

Seriously, look at the pictures you have provided. The trousers should not pull,or have drag lines, give you a wedgie or hang in any other way than in a complimentary manner, and these are lacking in all points.
Just because tou are not a standard size does not mean your clothes have to be ill fitting.
If they cannot cut for your figure then it is not worth buying from them.

I would not order pleated trousers because you need to get a pair that is cut properly and pleats confuse the issue.
Can you get measured properly or do you have measuremnts taken by a proper tailor? Please have proper measurements taken. It will go a long way towards reducing returns and frustration.
Dont use these clothes as a basis for ordering from another company .

Yes, full front waist means belly. In tailors terms it is stout or corpulent depending on the waist size in relation to the chest and /or hip size. I use it as a softer way to explain those terms.

 

[GBR]



Hey guys, thanks in advance for any advice. I just got this suit from Knot Standard in Austin. This is the suit after the initial alterations from KS. Let me know what you think. I already requested a new vest (hasn't come in yet). I told them I wanted it to completely cover up the shirt so that there isn't that weird triangle above my crotch. I also asked for it to have one more button. Other than that, please critique the fit and the style choices. I'm planning on using these suit pieces for the measurements to send to Luxire for my test fit shirt and pants (and much later, coat). Beyond slight corrections for Luxire purposes, is there anything that is worthy of taking this suit to the tailor for? .styleforum.net/content/type/61/id/2301028/width/350/height/700/flags/LL" style="; width: 274px; height: 700px"> [/URL]

I'd send it back if you can, there is nothing whatever good to say about, only dreadful or worse. If you can't send it back burn it; the you should either go to a bricks and mortar shop next time or if it is was from such a vendor avoid them, the sales staff have no idea whatever and seem only to be interested in getting their tawdry stock out of the public door to the premises.